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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Was wondering if someone could help me get this engine to run efficiently as far as proper boost for safe operating... drag event coming up and no parts so trying to be careful.

Start with what I have...

91 sundance converted to turbo. 2.5L turbo, 0.40 overbore, +40's, intercooled, cheapie holley AFPR, Walbro GSS340 255lph f/pump, re-programmed 89 SMEC (can't remember what tuning is...duh) 3 bar MAP, dawes a/f, my egt got broke (probe), super 60 turbo, spearco FMIC, 2.5 exhaust, big can wastegate, G-Valve (was set @ 18 lbs), homemade BOV (works ok), 525 tranny with pin mod & bushings, TIII clutch...

Ignition is stock though, has taylor wires, recommendations would be nice, thinking going back to blaster 2 coil?

Anyone know what all of this would be good for boost wise, higher than 94octane was looked into, actually want to run race fuel for weekend. Any data would be appreciated...thanks!

James
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok well I'm up at 18 now, popped yet another fel-pro, on 3-4 cylinders, switched to mopar performance gasket for the $20 that it is, its better now. Using wiseco forged pistons and carrillo custom rods I waited forever to get. Wiring is from 89 T2 Shelby daytona, same with the SMEC.
 

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well the stock TII computer is only good for 14.6(1 bar) or something close to that. so if you run it at say 12 you should be fine with out a fuel cut out. but you can send Cendy at Welcome to FWD Performance, Inc. a PM or go to her site and she can hook you up with a custom computer made for your cars set up..
 

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IF your A/F is ok
AND your short block is well-built
THEN your forged 2.5 should be fine to at least 20-22 psi; likely much more, but 22 should be no problemo

SO your main task is to stay on top of the tuning...

FIRST get your EGT operational
THEN save up $$ for a wide-band
OR become *Fanatical* about your tuning procedure: pull plugs regularly for inspection, take notes about changes you made and effects, etc

since you obviously have some $$ in your combo, you want to take care of it..

PS- IMO the main cause of HG failure is loss of clamping force by the HG bolts... I always do a retorque after 3-5 heat cycles after a HG swap
 

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90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
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What are your gauges and plugs telling you at 18 psi? If everything looks good then I'd say keep on truckin. What specifically are you concerned about with the tuning? It sounds like the car is set up fairly well already. :confused:
 

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really ? from Post #1

"... re-programmed 89 SMEC (can't remember what tuning is...duh) 3 bar MAP,..."
my bad it was early so i missed something...and you dont have to be a ass about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
The general questions were just to safeguard the engine as I will be competing in time trials with it this year and don't want to blow it up...lol better to be safe with a second or 3rd opinion right? And another reason is I've spit out 2 fel-pro's already at 18lbs, spark plugs a little whitened but no signs of piston damage or pitting, but blew out the firing ring (approx. 1 1/2" of it) on cyl 3 & 4 and threw off my timing pretty good. So I had not a clue, was thinking it might be the cheapo AFPR I've got on the rail? That and stock coil set-up... might be an issue?

P.S- Thinking of running C12 STP fuel... feedback would be nice if someone has experimented with settings running it... Thanks alot all!
 
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