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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some photos of my new direct fit SMIC custom intercooler for my 89 Baron. It was made to spec by Bell Intercoolers. It is a high performance IC with dimensions of 10X12X4.5 with 2.5" I/O. It is rated at 400 HP with a 1.5 psi drop @ 25 psi inlet. So the cubic inches is 540 vs. 230 for the stock. This keeps the pipes short and direct with no plumbing or cut up front end. I am planning to add a pvc or aluminum sheet diverter damn in the grill to redirect ram air to the IC. I still have my AC, so I cut out about 4"s of heat sink fins on the condensor coil to allow more ram air. I only had to move the radiator over 1". I'll post pics after it's installed along with my head porting, forged Venolias, ported 2-piece and TU cast ex mani. I wanted to try something simple, easy and stock looking.

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Very nice, are you planning on painting it?
 

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I would suggest either a fan or a sprayer for that. I think it'll work great, but I also think that it'll have the same heat-soak problem the stocker has. It looks great though...something I never considered! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think I'll leave polished like the piping. Just red couplers. Might as well not add any insulating layer although that effect would be miniscule.
The total height is 17". I also have the battery relocated in the trunk so help fit. The 3" CAI is in the battery location. I have a 360 air intake damn that pulls 100% outside air and zero compartment heat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I would suggest either a fan or a sprayer for that. I think it'll work great, but I also think that it'll have the same heat-soak problem the stocker has. It looks great though...something I never considered! :thumb:
I though about that and discussed it at lengths with Gerhardt. He believes that with a diverter damn in the grill, I would get more ram air than any fan would provide above 25 mph. The part I do like about a 10"-12" puller, is that it is cooling the IC at stopped or low mph. Of course that's a problem with an FMIC also as well as a ram deflector for the radiator. I could set one up on a manual switch easy. It's weekender driver, so not sure I would use a sprayer that much, but I have considered some alkyl if I can't get the temperatures I want.
 

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The price unfortunately is not for the faint of heart or pocketbook. Complete prototype drawing, manufacture and shipping was about $635. If you consider the added piping, connectors and labor on an FMIC, proly not bad?
I paid $200 for my FMIC and piping, install was done by myself
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I paid $200 for my FMIC and piping, install was done by myself
That would be nice, but I'm not a welder. Was that a new IC and pipes? The "J" body Barons with the head light motor, braces and with my AC in, looked to me like a lot or tear down and fab work. Just don't have the time anymore and wanted a little more stock look outside.
 

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the side mount i/c heat soaks off the radiator and engine bay when you're moving less than 30MPH or so no matter how big of a scoop you have to it. Also if you scoop air to it you're gonna make your cooling efficiency worse.
 

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I think he said that he blocked off the IC from the engine bay all together, but I may have misinterprested his description....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the side mount i/c heat soaks off the radiator and engine bay when you're moving less than 30MPH or so no matter how big of a scoop you have to it. Also if you scoop air to it you're gonna make your cooling efficiency worse.
I have a 10" M103 Maradyne fan that pulls 950 cfm that fits this IC. The problem is the same you have through a radiator. Under 30 mph, the fan helps greatly with heat sink, above 30 mph, the fan becomes a restriction to ram air assuming no obstacles. But I would guess if 950 cfm is enough to remove dissipated heat from the intake charge during boost, then the fan might outperform ram air due to the IC location if not scooped. I'd like to hear any opinions out there with ideas on fan versus scooped ram air with this IC. I know it won't be flow restrictive to high boost like the stock IC, but ideal cooling may be an experiment.
 

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$635 is not bad, I must have spent $450+welding materials on my fmic and cold air setup and I welded the pipes myself and must have 10hours on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
$635 is not bad, I must have spent $450+welding materials on my fmic and cold air setup and I welded the pipes myself and must have 10hours on it.
I remember seeing the pics of your FMIC install and it was awesome. The Spearco style bar & plate HP ICs are not cheap themselves when you look at their new add prices. Heck, I guess I keep thinking about that $600 I might get back from the government and just put it to good use on a TD:drinking:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think he said that he blocked off the IC from the engine bay all together, but I may have misinterprested his description....
No, I just have my CAI blocked off from the engine bay heat, not the IC. This might sound a little trashy, but it actually works great and looks good. What I did until someone comes up with a better idea, was use a soft side Budweiser cooler. :drinking: I cut a hole in the back the size of my 3" intake pipe. Then I ran the intake pipe inside the cooler and molded the plyable cooler around my computer and K&N filter. Then cut the front side out that fits around the holes in the grill panel where the cold air is pulled in. It also pulls air in through the computer module which has its intake under the headlight from outside the engine bay. The top is zippered over the top of the intake filter. So basically, 100% of intake air comes from outside the engine bay and the cooler actually insulates my intake from the engine bay heat. The difference on my seat dyno was remarkable with just this change versus sucking in engine bay heat. The Budweiser emblem on top of my intake filter actually looks a little like Joe D'Amoto's funny car advertising. :D
 

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^^LOL, nothing wrong with it as long as it works!

I would make an attempt to try and control the airflow around the back of the IC if you can. Sitting still it will make a good improvement over it not being separated from the enginebay/radiator....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
^^LOL, nothing wrong with it as long as it works!

I would make an attempt to try and control the airflow around the back of the IC if you can. Sitting still it will make a good improvement over it not being separated from the enginebay/radiator....
The IC will set about an inch from the radiator and it does not need the attached T2 radiator brackets on the top and bottom that you have with the stock IC. Those just help tranfer heat to the IC. This will give some room for insulation material between the IC and radiator. The backside of the IC will be mostly open to the grill by removing some condensor fins and panel cut outs. So should have plenty of air around the IC for cooling. If I didn't run an AC, it would all be open. A 10" fan running off a manual switch may provide better cooling than the ram air, but just have to see after install. I can always use the fan for low speeds and let Meth intake assist at high boost if 950 cfm doesn't do the trick.
 

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On the GLHS that wouldn't fit, also you have an issue with the core already covering a couple inches of the IC already. My plan was to recore the GLHS IC with a water to air core than flows 30% more. Then run a heat heat exchanger. No heat soke, no getting the air to it issues. and no cutting with the little hoses. A drop in intercooler / radaitor combo like what is made for Fords would be nice. With a 3" core we could have a narrow rad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
On the GLHS that wouldn't fit, also you have an issue with the core already covering a couple inches of the IC already. My plan was to recore the GLHS IC with a water to air core than flows 30% more. Then run a heat heat exchanger. No heat soke, no getting the air to it issues. and no cutting with the little hoses. A drop in intercooler / radaitor combo like what is made for Fords would be nice. With a 3" core we could have a narrow rad.
Not familiar with the GLHS IC room. Water to air may be ideal for size, you still need a heat exchanger for the water presumably in front of the radiator for cooling. Hoses easier to run than pipes and bending/welding. Still needs pump room. IC sits next to the T2 radiator with direct shot to turbo and TB. Should have great spool time with double size and 2.5" and short pipe. The 782 port with venolias, hogged out 2-piece and TU cast mani will help.
 
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