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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got tired searching, found a LITTLE...

but with dcal, a wideband and an egt probe i should be able to home in on a safe tune right? Im looking at picking up an 86 turbo convertible, i believe its the turbo 1 2.2L motor... people are talking about 2 ecus, and 27cxxx chips.

can anyone give me some basic info or links to such info? I was referred here by the dcal message board... I cant even confirm the motor in the thing so far!

is there a bin repository or a .ecu or .xdf file for editing bins around, or are we on our own looking for things in hex?

is dcal similar to tunercat or tunerpro for the gm ecus?

i havent really gotten savy with all this mother mopar stuff, but i need a quick crash course in what to expect before I buy a car i may not want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok its a great forum, but reaading everything isnt really an option... Im not new to FI tuning, just mopars.

the car knocks like a crazy sonuvabitch when the boost feels like its coming in, so im gonna fill it with premium and some octane booster this evening. I guess theres a quarter tank of 87 in it or something.

provided that the knocking is solved by high test....

If i started playing with things the factory fuel curve should be stable and good to 14 psi or so right? So would i just start by backing off the timing and adding a couple of pounds to the overboost??

I won't go anywhere near 14 pounds... i really want economy. Thats the plan for the cAR...but then i drive a 66 big block olds so thats relative.

get it running efficiently, maybe get a slower spooling turbo to stay out of boost when cruising, and let it make some boost in overboost. I hear that stock turbos give boost really quick.

then we'll sell it or blow it to the moon when we get the road race civic tranny back and start that project. (hit 14's in a 1.5L non vtec ef on 100% stock engine)

Does the boost controlling mechanism have enough control to lower boost and add timing under low load, then add boost and remove the aggressive economy timing curve under load?

or will i just get 9 psi if i set it there and then go higher in overboost.
 

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ok its a great forum, but reaading everything isnt really an option... Im not new to FI tuning, just mopars.

the car knocks like a crazy sonuvabitch when the boost feels like its coming in, so im gonna fill it with premium and some octane booster this evening. I guess theres a quarter tank of 87 in it or something.

provided that the knocking is solved by high test....

If i started playing with things the factory fuel curve should be stable and good to 14 psi or so right? So would i just start by backing off the timing and adding a couple of pounds to the overboost??

I won't go anywhere near 14 pounds... i really want economy. Thats the plan for the cAR...but then i drive a 66 big block olds so thats relative.

get it running efficiently, maybe get a slower spooling turbo to stay out of boost when cruising, and let it make some boost in overboost. I hear that stock turbos give boost really quick.

then we'll sell it or blow it to the moon when we get the road race civic tranny back and start that project. (hit 14's in a 1.5L non vtec ef on 100% stock engine)

Does the boost controlling mechanism have enough control to lower boost and add timing under low load, then add boost and remove the aggressive economy timing curve under load?

or will i just get 9 psi if i set it there and then go higher in overboost.
Woah ... T1's stock boost is 7psi. T1 injectors are rated for this ... much more and they can't supply enough fuel. If you're looking to stretch the boost to 14 ... and no more ... you'll need to install T2 injectors at least. A calibration to suit would be your best bet too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
whoah, theres no way im going that high... i read stock for an 86 was 9 psi which suprised me.

i was thinking a 3-4 psi increase. Are stock injectors ok for this boost level?

I read that fuel tables for the stock equipment went up to 14.5 psi, so i figured as long as i stayed beneath that limit, fueling wouldn't be an issue.

I have a wideband, so i'll be able to get a stable a/f ratio in any case.

wouldnt a motor like this (with 99k original miles) POP if it ran 14 psi??

like i said. i want good partial throttle economy in any case. lets try to just strech the stock injectors and keep the boost reasonable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
really all i want to do is optimize the calibration, and then start looking at intercooling and exhaust options until the stock turbo goes kaput.

im averaging 18 mpg in city driving. i want to stretch that as far as possible, then have full performance while in overboost, or when under heavy load.

could i run around on 5 psi or so, then have overboost hit 9-12 psi?
 

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Got tired searching, found a LITTLE...

but with dcal, a wideband and an egt probe i should be able to home in on a safe tune right? Im looking at picking up an 86 turbo convertible, i believe its the turbo 1 2.2L motor... people are talking about 2 ecus, and 27cxxx chips.
I've had no problems with a WB only, EGT will be nice for adjusting you timing, but beware the egt's are rather high normally. I'm not sure what you mean by 2 ecus, the ecu up to 87 is split into 2 parts, a logic module and power module. I use 27SF512 chips for my 87 ecu which is slightly different from the 86 one, but they should still work (you may have to copy the bin 8x over or something).

can anyone give me some basic info or links to such info? I was referred here by the dcal message board... I cant even confirm the motor in the thing so far!

is there a bin repository or a .ecu or .xdf file for editing bins around, or are we on our own looking for things in hex?

is dcal similar to tunercat or tunerpro for the gm ecus?

i havent really gotten savy with all this mother mopar stuff, but i need a quick crash course in what to expect before I buy a car i may not want.
There is something of a repository on dcal and there is another turbo dodge website that has a more complete one, PM me for info (I can't post a link here for some reason or another).

Does the boost controlling mechanism have enough control to lower boost and add timing under low load, then add boost and remove the aggressive economy timing curve under load?
The way it's basically setup is that there's a part throttle boost setting and a full throttle setting. Some of the more advanced calibrations have switchable boost. You can also set boost levels based upon vehicle speed.

whoah, theres no way im going that high... i read stock for an 86 was 9 psi which suprised me.

i was thinking a 3-4 psi increase. Are stock injectors ok for this boost level?

I read that fuel tables for the stock equipment went up to 14.5 psi, so i figured as long as i stayed beneath that limit, fueling wouldn't be an issue.
The tables do actually go to 14 psi since that's the limit of the map sensor, but you'll probably run into boost cut well before that. Also beware, that the tables in these ECU's look *nothing* like most mfr's tables (the standard load x rpm variety). The tables are all 2d and only have one input (ignoring the T3 cals). This means that there are many tables used at any one time to calculate fueling. Grab a copy of dcal and start looking at the cals if you're interested. You may want to find a copy of the 86 MP (mopar performance) cal since it will probably be as safe as it's going to get with higher performance.

wouldnt a motor like this (with 99k original miles) POP if it ran 14 psi??

like i said. i want good partial throttle economy in any case. lets try to just strech the stock injectors and keep the boost reasonable.
As to the 14 psi on factory engines... I've put 20psi into my engine for well over a year now, with the stock turbo and internals and nothing has gone wrong save for my clutch. My bro and I pulled an '85 engine out of our shed last summer that had been sitting for 4 years and was well over 100k mi and have been putting 15 psi into it ever since, and it's still together. These engines are pretty stout if the detonation is kept to a minimum. Cheap knock sensors and 160$ will buy you enough injector to make 300hp.

Since you're used to honda's, which actually have heads that flow worth a damn, it may seem a little shocking that the PSI is that high for the older TD's. The old 8v heads don't really flow that well so we just crank the boost up. 14 psi isn't really that big a deal for these cars with proper supporting mods (injectors, calibration, intercooler if non-intercooled).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well since learning about it all, the 2.2 t1 motor seems to be the least performance oriented motor of the group...

i may just bag it and help this girl get the thing in selling shape, the car itself is in pretty nice shape!

on the other hand these things seem fun... im going to look into my options if i did keep the car, i'd way rather be working on a blow through setup though...

thanks for all the great info guys!
 

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i may just bag it and help this girl get the thing in selling shape, the car itself is in pretty nice shape!

on the other hand these things seem fun... im going to look into my options if i did keep the car, i'd way rather be working on a blow through setup though...
working with an 86 turbo convertible (600?) , you may be happier in the long run to get it tuned up nice and running well, stock. it will be a sweet little car.. but not fast - its a convertible! cruise with top down and enjoy

but as you've discovered, these early turboDodges have a lot of potential for speed ; if you really want to pursue a HiPo TD, you will be further ahead to start with an 89+turbo car (when the Common Block CB motors were introduced) or at least an 88, since that will give you a better electronics, better trans, better intake mani, ...

and since you enjoy the lite weight civics - maybe you would like an Omni ? mine's running easy 13.8s using almost all "Stock" parts
 
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