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1984 Daytona. AF/S
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m a retired federal firefighter and I now work part time at Amerian airlines so I can fly free.
I’ve raced on many levels from Competition Eliminator to Super Stock. I currently have a Top dragster but have grandkids coming up who want to race and I’m not putting them in a 220 mph beast

I’m going to run Stock eliminator and just hauled home a 1984 Dodge Daytona turbo. Going to build it to run AF/S. I do a lot of extreem engine development and this will be my last drag program. I have so many ideas for this car.
 
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Welcome To TD!!!

Are you planning on using the 84 engine and trans, not very strong and the car/wiring/components (including turbo) are unique to 84 only, not sure what you are allowed in the AF/S...
If allowed, the 89 2.2L common block would be recommended.

I am more of an electrical/diagnostics guy, there are other members who are well versed in engine building, the particulars of the 2.2L/2.5L engines and what you can and cannot (or should not) do.
If you need/want any wiring diagrams let me know and Good Luck!!!

Here are some good reference sites.


 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you so much for your kind reply. The 84 has some unique qualities. One the shipping weight is 22 pounds lighter forcing it to a AF/S. You can run one category above and one category below. If I put the turbo Z bumper and spoiler on then I would be a natural B car. Thank you for your expertise and wiring I may need some of it. I will be using a Holly EFI and Ecm. As to the turbo I can use any turbo that the inducer is 1.7065. I will be Building a header and picking a turbo if anyone has any ideas. I can use the lighter common block and eight bolt crankshaft. The requirements are the correct casting number cylinder head and intake manifold and throttle body.
 
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Looking forward to your progress !!

Hopefully your dyno testing will compare a stock exhaust manifold to a header.

Some of the fastest guys run a cast stocker and others a custom header.

I don't think anyone has done any actual back to back testing as of yet.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The DYNO is in WIchita Falls Texas if anyone wanted to toss their motors. It’s going to be set up for one
 
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Looking forward to your progress !!

Hopefully your dyno testing will compare a stock exhaust manifold to a header.

Some of the fastest guys run a cast stocker and others a custom header. 38" long in total length from plate to collector 3 bolt plate, and out of the box the

I don't think anyone has done any actual back to back testing as of yet.

Thanks
Randy
Not turbo here, but the Hooker header made originally for The Ram Charger bolts right up to the 84 Daytona tunnel and centered in the tunnel, was made with very long matched length primary tubes, and like double the length of a normal V8 Collector, and the primary tube ports in the plate right out of the stock Hooker header part number head exhaust ports to header ports are super near perfect, since we cannot touch the head and was a huge improvement over the stock exhaust manifold at least in my non-turbo application. A second and a quarter out of the box easy, and was within a tenth open or through a reduced midas type install of the balance of exhaust factory to rear bumper oval tip.

Mine is just the header now, fits in the decibel range, never failed sound test yet.
 

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I believe the header makes a big difference on the N/A Engine but the turbo is a different deal.

Thanks
Randy

Not turbo here, but the Hooker header made originally for The Ram Charger bolts right up to the 84 Daytona tunnel and centered in the tunnel, was made with very long matched length primary tubes, and like double the length of a normal V8 Collector, and the primary tube ports in the plate right out of the stock Hooker header part number head exhaust ports to header ports are super near perfect, since we cannot touch the head and was a huge improvement over the stock exhaust manifold at least in my non-turbo application. A second and a quarter out of the box easy, and was within a tenth open or through a reduced midas type install of the balance of exhaust factory to rear bumper oval tip.

Mine is just the header now, fits in the decibel range, never failed sound test yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
thanks for all the good information. Anyone know of front floor pans.
 

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I believe the header makes a big difference on the N/A Engine but the turbo is a different deal.

Thanks
Randy
Honestly Randy, as I do not have a Turbo, (TBI Here as you say), I have not studied up on how they ran that exhaust and fed back to the turbo, but I would think without some type of custom header, or pipe at least, getting that exhaust far away from the rear of the engine (down and out at least), and in that tunnel we have at least behind the driver, we also have spot checks at times at certain tracks (where noise to neighbors is an issue), checking decibel levels at 50 feet perpendicular to the [email protected],000 RPM to 2,500 RPM, and the smaller the exhaust pipe exit, the more often people fail that test. My collector just passes the sound tests, as it is larger, and up in that protection heat shield tunnel, but air flows through too and clears the exhaust out also.

Nobody really wants to run stock through mufflers if they can avoid it. I could also be wrong, but they are not going to tech a Stocker with just the exhaust manifold terminating at the engine rear on a 2.2L...they are stringent in STK, and S STK...it is a leveling the playing field deal, and a race every race to squeeze out 1-5 more HP than it was manufactured to perform to, and at advertised curb wt.

If you have never intentionally run an engine (you put a lot of money into), low a quart of oil to 3 just to win a stinking heads up in class race, and taken extreme risks, just to win that class winner Wally, and do it all by the rules, then willing to tear it down and get it all measured up in the middle of competition, reassemble and button it back up and race the next morning first round, it really is not for everyone, takes a special breed, but it is a blast to race all types, fast to slow factory hotrods against one another with real limited things you can change, so limited, better use the rules all you can.
 

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The Turbo Exhaust manifold is a very compact unit that bolts directly to the cyl head.

The Turbo bolts directly to the exhaust manifold and is very close to the Engine.

As such, there is little, if any, heat loss to drive the Turbo.

The Turbo outlet (swing valve) is where the exhaust pipe bolts to.

The outlet is in about the dame spot as the N/A exhaust manifold outlet.

Any kind of header normally locates the Turbo farther away from the cyl head.

Most headers are tubular and don't hold heat as well as the iron Turbo manifold.

The Turbo absorbs much of the exhaust noise so require less exhaust for noise control.

There is lots of power to be gained using a free flowing swing valve and down pipe.

I'm sure Mr Hogue will be investigating all this very closely per NHRA.

Below is a pic of a typical stock Turbo and its location on the Engine.

Thanks
Randy

 

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That diagram helped me a ton Randy, TY

They are flat so different, I knew where it was mounted (The turbo compressor, and actually did reinstall/replace on 1 of my aunts Turbo LeBaron once back in 94 I think, and she had that stock exhaust manifold and the studs springs, donut gasket, and full exhaust system. The diagram triggered the memories of the job.
 

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First thing I did on the slow sled TBI, after I found out through the exhaust, with the A/C on it and on, as in running, Though it does have an A/C cutout relay, at full throttle...lol, ran right on the slowest 17.45 Stock index, won $400 bucks that night bracket racing (Went home, handed my wife the $400, and said, I know we bought the car for you from my mom, but I just ended up with a new older, but very budget Stock Elim. Car, let's go buy you another car tomorrow, then said hey you told me to go to Carlsbad and see how it would do, all your fault hun)...she laughed, we bought her another car, I gained another race car (next summer, that will be 30 years ago)..., was remove the A/C, add a wt. Box/torque strap in place of the compressor, took out the A/C condenser (hoses and dryer crap), headed to a Rad shop, had it tested, cleaned and flushed, 2 -3/8" barbed hose fittings added, brazed to it after cutting off the hoses,, turned it into a very large Trans. Cooler, run through Rad, out, over to passenger side routed up on top of radiator tucked back in the front, in and out of it, back to in on Trans, added 3 more quarts of Trans fluid capacity, changed the 1 and 2 gearsets, reworked that transaxle valve body, and dump the cat, added a ram charger Hooker header, and uncorked it by adding a cone with a 3 bolt flange and gasket,, unbolting at the collector and offsetting the exhaust pipe to the left, hung up. Went racing!
 
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