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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ive always had a mustang GT with some descent mods, just about everything except for the supercharger. Those days are in the past and now I drive an 05 SRT-4. This thing is bone stock and coming from a high powered car I had a few questions about certain mods and the factory turbocharger...
okay I guess I can start my newb conversation by asking really how much psi can the stock turbo hold? what type of horsepower is it able to achieve? For somebody who doesn't race on the track but on the street occasionaly and wants a descently fast car is the next step up, the turbo upgrade, necassary or is that just too much?
Also, I was curious as to what are the simplest,cheapest, and best mods for an SRT-4?
I understand that im going to need to upgrade like the clutch, fuel system, air intake, turbo timer, boost controller, exhaust, spark plugs and wires, but after that what else can I do and what is the best way in choosing all of that stuff for the SRT-4?
im not asking for ALL of my questions to be answered but just a little help to get the ball rolling would be greatly appreciated
thank you
 

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How 2: 300whp Stock turbo...again - SRTforums.com
This is a cost effective way to get near 300 hp safely and inexpensively. Also coming from Mustangs you know SCT, they just came out with the equipment for our cars. 05's PCM is a boost nazi. Thats the main reason I went with the stage 1 is it allowed more boost without getting finnicky about it like the stock computer. I'm not an advocate of SRTforums, as their is a ton of B/S over there, but there is an equal amount of good info if you're willing to dig for it.
Also in my opinion for simple plug n play stage 3 is easy, albeit pricey. But with some sticky tires and good driving skills, 11's are there for the taking.
 

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how much hp is your goal? still need to retain daily driveability? then mopar plug and play is going to be your best bet. that way you don't have to dyno tune.
I too went stage 1 so i could do cat delete,(no C.E.L) . and bumped up boost to 17 spike fall to 15 @ 6K. (W/AGP) car has mopar blue plate when i got it so its gonna stay. stage 1 also gives better exhaust note and better boost schedule as long as wastgate and vacuum line remain stock. and bov works better in my opinion.
The best up grade so far has been AGP wastegate and vacuum line mod.Mopar Bov W/ No Ptb Vac Setup - SRTforums.com
When I can afford it I'm gonna go stage 2 w/ toys.

So i guess the simple answer is. AGP wastgate. Mopar Bov. K&N Air filter or cold air intake. booger bushings. engine mounts and transmission mount inserts.Turbo timer.


And I too only read and use whats proven to work from SRTforums.com .
 

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How 2: 300whp Stock turbo...again - SRTforums.com
This is a cost effective way to get near 300 hp safely and inexpensively. Also coming from Mustangs you know SCT, they just came out with the equipment for our cars. 05's PCM is a boost nazi. Thats the main reason I went with the stage 1 is it allowed more boost without getting finnicky about it like the stock computer. I'm not an advocate of SRTforums, as their is a ton of B/S over there, but there is an equal amount of good info if you're willing to dig for it.
Also in my opinion for simple plug n play stage 3 is easy, albeit pricey. But with some sticky tires and good driving skills, 11's are there for the taking.

he asked about stock turbo, so stage 2 w/ toys would be right up his alley + bolt ons.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I guess my goal was somewhere around 350-400 hp IF possible with the stock turbo and approiate mods. Im not saying it HAS to be at that type of horsepower ASAP but in time I would like for my car to reach somewhere in that range. That's why I was asking the questions about the stock turbo and if the upgraded turbo is neccassary. And to be honest im having a tiny bit of trouble understading exactly what is the wastegate and its fuction sorry im just completely new to the whole turbocharged systems. Is the wastegate like kind of a control of how much your turbo can spike before your cars computer catches it and brings it back down to protect the engine? Another newb question, if I want to change out the stock BOV to like a Greddy or HKS BOV, what do i need to get or what do i need to change to make it work properly? If I change the FMIC to like an AGP one or OBX do I need to change the stock FMIC piping? Last question, what is the safest, most hassle free way to be able to control your turbos boost AT WILL with no computer reseting it back to "safe" boosting and just to have complete control inside of your car pref. digital? Like a Greddy Profec boost controller with the upgraded PCM to like a stage 1?
thanks again for the help guys
 

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The wastegate actuator is a vacuum/pressure operated diaphram that opens or closes a valve (the wastegate itself) in the exhaust path to bypass exhaust gasses around the turbine wheel. Thus speeding up or slowing down the turbo to make the turbo spin the right # of rpms for the boost level.
 

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Long AEM cold air intake
Mopar stage 2 with toys
3" exhaust including o2 pipe
LARGE front mount IC, the biggest must
cap stock BOV and get new up pipe with BOV

Then add 22 x 8 x 15" slicks on 15 x 7 tires
Konis with Eibach prokit springs

Mid 12s till the clutch gives, then buy the aluminum flywheel and Spec stage 3 clutch. SRT 4s are too easy, but the IC sucks badly. You don't need a boost controller, my brothers SRT 4 runs a stock computer and boost control and runs 12.74 @ 110 on pump gas and 17 PSI. Turning the boost up real high doesn't have the great effect on these cars because the turbo is tiny. You end up with massive boost and little power from it. As it stands the stage 2 with a big FMIC will want about 20 PSI anyway. The computer can also turn back boost and timing and save the engine, boost controls melt pistons. The stage 2 is made to push a button and run race gas and have more power, or dial the boost down for more traction. So the stage 2 with toys has a ton of good stuff to it. If you have the money a stage 3 at this point with the exhaust, FMIC and big 3" CIA is going to be 400 + WHP and still drive like a stocker. Don't let clowns down talk the BIG FMIC, that would be my first mod.
 

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honestly, the big front mount intercooler would make me nervous for a daily driven car as it requires crash bar removal. i suppose the exhaust depot wuss intercooler would be the way to go if it were me. there is no denying the benifits of the bigger intercooler though, choice is yours to make.

if you are going to get stage 3, also get the maxxfab stage3r O2 housing
 

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honestly, the big front mount intercooler would make me nervous for a daily driven car as it requires crash bar removal. i suppose the exhaust depot wuss intercooler would be the way to go if it were me. there is no denying the benifits of the bigger intercooler though, choice is yours to make.

if you are going to get stage 3, also get the maxxfab stage3r O2 housing
Guy on Ebay makes the IC with a new custom crash brace. It is a lot stronger than stock anf uses steel tube that hides behind the plastic of the grill. You see the big IC but there is a big steel tube between the nose and IC, actually 2 of them. I posted on this too some time ago so there is no excuse or down side.
 

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Mopar has a staged performance path, designed by a actual designer. I would stick with that, and any things that you believe to actually help.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
assuming that I go with the upgraded larger FMIC
can you tell me the exact measurements it needs to be and if the brand matters THAT much?
also where can I get a stage 1 PCM?
 

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For a S1 pcm, you can try srtforums (always some one upgrading and want to get rid of old stuff) and or ebay. Like a previous poster said, there is alot of bs at the srtforums, but also alot of info there too. You just have to take the time to find it, and the best bet is the search function, most will flame you if its a simple question that has bin asked a few thousand times.

On a side note, keep the racing at the track and off the street
 

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Discussion Starter #16
okay
well does anybody know what the dimensions of the upgraded intercooler should be and if the brand really matters and if so what are some good brands to choose from?
 

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okay
well does anybody know what the dimensions of the upgraded intercooler should be and if the brand really matters and if so what are some good brands to choose from?
Take a look at the Exhaust Depot intercoolers, you can't go wrong with their quality or price. ED makes the smaller wuss IC (doesn't require removal of crashbar), beast, and super beast (both require removal of crashbar). I believe ED is no longer going to poduce intercoolers for the SRT-4 so check the for-sale section on srtforums. Also check his vendor section of srtforums, hey may have some IC's left for sale...

AGP is another company you can look at for nice intercoolers for the SRT-4.
 

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IMO, the best intercooler available for the SRT4 is the AIS. It is designed exactly like the stock one, with nicely curved cast endtanks, but bigger. (Exhaust Depot's Beast was basically a clone of the AIS.) It is available directly from the manufacturer for $325 shipped. Best deal around on the best intercooler. Here's a post on srtforums with AIS contact info:
AIS intercoolers, really good price but are they any good?
 

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I always forget about AIS intercoolers. It is definitely one of the best intercoolers for the SRT-4, especially for the price. I personally wanted a direct replacement IC for the SRT-4 without removing the crashbar which is why I went with the ED "Wuss" direct fit. Unfortunately AIS did not make a direct fit IC with cast endtanks for the srt-4.
 

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Unfortunately AIS did not make a direct fit IC with cast endtanks for the srt-4.
FWIW, they do now, sort of. You send them a stock intercooler and they will use the endtanks and re-core it for the same $325 price.
 
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