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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm new here, sorry you'll have to excuse my ignorance if this is the wrong forum for this. I didn't really see any fitting forum. Either way, I have a nice CRF450r honda i'm considering trading a guy for his 87 Dodge Shelby Charger (not GLH-S). It's got 69k or 169k "he's not sure if it rolled over", which means 169k to me. Body is straight but needs paint. Needs a battery and 1 axel (burnouts?). What is the rough value of this machine? Here are some pics of the car. Notice the stripe on th passenger side doesn't say "shelby" back by the rear wheel well. Is that normal or is that an indicator of damage? One last question, what kind of mpg would you expect out of a car like that when not underboost cruising interstate around 70mph? Thanks for your help!
 

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You're screen name says you've been here for a bit but welcome anyways :)
I'd say an average of 30+ highway. value, well yours is in pretty decent shape but I can't honestly put a value on it.. they are a great car and a lot of people are interested, but I myself have not looked to buy one. I do know quite a few people that have sold a roller easily for 1000 dollars in worse shape. I am thinking that the mainly black one was one of the rarer colors? don't quote me though.. The seats are also in excellent condition. rough value.. I'd pay 2500-3000 if I had the money to spend on one. It all depends on who's buying and whether or not you're willing to put the time in to fix the small stuff. looks like a great car and I hope you get it, drive it and enjoy it!
 

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The 'shelby' sticker missing means it's had body work. Car should pull upper 20mpg if you drive it nice. (nonturbo cars were capable of 38ish I pulled 42 with mine really driving it super nice on flat highway drafting a semi)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the information guys. Yeah, my screen name says I've been a long time lurker huh? I've been interested on and off for a while and have alot of interest in boosted cars and I am pleasantly surprised with the durability of theses machines from what i read. I'll definitely let you know how it goes.
 

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Yeah, 30+ (low 30's) shouldn't be a problem, my daytonas do that and they are heavier cars than this from what I understand. I think there should be a code on the fender tag to determine if it's a true shelby (sorry, not very knowledgeable on these series cars), try to get a picture of the tag and cross reference the codes.
 

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are you near the car. If so i would personally go over there and look at it. These cars are know for rusting out on the front floor pan area. They leak form the Winshield Cowl area and leak down and rust. if you look into the front wheelwell at the back of it if it is rusty thats where it will be. Almost all of them do it, it just depends on how bad it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for that tip. I'll definately look at it before I buy it. It is an hour and a half away and I want to make sure that it passes my initial screening process before I take half a day and a tank of gas and run up there.
 

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one other cool option about the car that i just realized when looking more closely at the pics. That car has rear louvers which is pretty rare to find on a Charger. Cool feature.
 

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back of front wheelwells rots as said + back along rockers, windshield posts like to rust ,
cross member at gas tank , back rebar rots to nothing and bottom corners of rad cradle like to crack

check floor pans and spare tire well also

but the issue with the ft wheelwells is most important rust consideration - hole in pass side gets computer wet
 

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Speaking of the cowl area as the area that leaks water, exactly how does it get from the windshield and leak water onto the passengers side floor. I have fixed the front floors all the way up underneath the dash/wheelwell. Do I need to scrape out all the old seam sealer under the cowl by the hood hinge and reseal it? The sealer is dried and cracked so should that solve my problem of getting a wet floor when it rains moderate to hard?
 

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maybe - water could come from anywhere in that area

I had a prob with the rim around the heat / ac air inlet

could also be a hole in windshield post along edge of glass - under trim

I'd try to make it wet on purpose , lift carpet and try wetting diff areas with hose until you find water coming in & hopefully a trail that leads to the leak

check the antena cable gromit hasen't come out of door post too
 

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Had a hole in post, fixed that too by welding in a patch/had trim off of course during the fix-all clean. I'm thinking the tub around the inlet too. I'l clean and pick out all the old sealer and reseal it.
 

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Right around the cowl, the sealant gets old and seperates. Happens on all td's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ahhh man, i'm sad the louvers are a rare option. I hate louvers but now you're convincing me they are cool since they are a rare option LOL.

As far as the rust goes I'll definitely check into that. Thanks for the thorough description as for what to look for. Sounds like these cars like to rot :( I used to have an 86 Porsche 944, I loved that car for the fact the body was galvanized before painting it. Really improved the durability of the car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm gonna ask a real noob question now. It that the turbo I or turbo II motor? I am guessing Turbo I because I see no apparent intercooler tubing.

That said, what is the potential for these motors? It obviously needs intercooled, i think non-intercooled turbo engines is just a straight up bad idea.
 

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ya early T1 , "log style" (manifold)

as is it dosen't really need an intercooler , rigging it with that manifold can be difficult , but not impossable

premimum fuel is manditory as it will ping and knock with reg fuel even under very light load

I ran 10 - 12 pounds boost in mine for 6 years , no intercooler - only prob I had was rod bearings dieing every 4-6 months - prob because I beat it without mercy every day

louvers are a bonus as they will keep interior much cooler in summer as sunshine can't heat car through back window

my Tz < is cooler with louvers and black interior than it was with the orig silver/grey and no louvers
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Can't believe you can boost that much with out intercooling. Mine will find a way to be intercooled pretty fast if I get it. I have two intercoolers, not sure which is more effiecnet. They are both stockers, one is from a turbo thunderbird and the other is a 1st gen mitsubishi eclipse intercooler. I spose space will have some dictation on my location. I aught to just poney up a few bucks and get a descent one.
 

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ya , back in '90-94 I didn't have much to choose from 'cept the top mount intercooler and I didn't have the coin for it so I went without

I went a couple of years before I found out it should only be 7-8 pounds boost , vacume harness I scooped from wreakers when I built the car had a bleed I didn't know wasen't suposed to be there

ran good though , always had nice light tan colour on spark plugs / never had a knock issue

beginner's luck ? - maybe
 
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