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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a Chrysler Laser that sat for 20+ years. Looks like I'll be replacing the injector. Yes, it's not a turbo car but I sure could use the help. How do you release the electrical connector to the injector? Is there a special tool?
 

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Small flat head screwdriver or a pick, pry the metal clip from the sides of the connector, then unplug. Edit: Whoops thats for turbo injectors, I have no experience with tbi units sorry.
 

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Which year? The 1984-85 Bosch unit is a tad different than 1986. The early unit has a rectangular (square) retention clip that goes around the left, top, and right sides of the connector. Carefully use a pick and pry the metal clip out and away from either the right or left side and gently work it up and off. The bottom side of the clip has small "ears," but is mostly open. Kind of looks like this:

Rectangle Parallel Font


Just work slowly & carefully so it doesn't "spring" away from you and across the front yard! Once you get the clip off, remove the plug from the injector and place the clip back into its groove in the plug. When you re-install, simply press the harness back on and she'll click into place. Here's a pic:

Automotive fuel system Fluid Automotive tire Auto part Gas



The 1986 TBI injector has a domed black cap that slides over the two injector terminals (prongs). Remove the Torx screw from the cap and slowly work it up and off.
 

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FWIW, I'd go with the Mopar (Bosch) replacement for the older unit if I were you. A bit spendy, but still available.


I recently rebuilt the same unit on a Reliant wagon I just sold. Very easy rebuild with all parts readily available. If yours is a 1986, kindly disregard:)

Wood Gas Cameras & optics Camera accessory Machine
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That's great to have the list. Thanks for that Capt W.

I replaced the fuel pump, tank, lines, and all the ignition parts(tune up). I have fuel pressure and spark, but nothing out of the injector. After sitting for so long, I'm betting the injector is froze up or clogged. Am I on the right track?
 

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I agree with where you're going, but would go just a bit further and rebuild the whole throttle body. You never know what's living in the passages, so would be a good opportunity to clean it all up and start fresh. The rebuild is very, very simple. Not many kits left out there, but here's one for under 12 bucks total:

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's real good advice and I'll do just that. By the way, that rebuilt unit is a thing of beauty and belongs at the center of your coffee table.
Because your my new best friend, may I keep asking questions? Is it possible to clean out an old injector and make it functional again?
I suspect you will be modest but I have to ask: Are you one of the experts on this forum?
Final question for this round: what FWD mopars of the 80's do you personally own?
Thanks again, you've helped me tremendously.
Dave
 

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Never tried to clean an old injector. Suppose it's possible, but not too sure how effective a layman's cleaning would be...especially with the intricacies of the early Bosch injectors. I've always replaced when necessary. When I got the Reliant a few years ago it was really fumbling, bumbling, and chugging along (mostly from lack of use & neglect). The new injector and throttle body rebuild was just the ticket. And to be honest, when I get a "new" car I typically go through all this kind of stuff anyway, since parts are still plentiful and relatively cheap.

Not an expert by any stretch, just a hobbyist who's taken apart and rebuilt a few FWD Dodges, so I've seen a lot over the past 20-30 years. Sold new/used Chry-Plym-Jeep-Eagle-Dodge in the early-to-mid-90s as well, so have been a fan for a while.

My current FWDs are a 1986 Daytona and a 1989 Sundance RS - both naturally aspirated 2.5L with automatics. I picked up the Daytona from an estate sale in Virginia in 2011 when I was TDY. Paid next to nothing for it (except for the car carrier fee to take it back to TX). Reason I bought it is that it's an exact duplicate of the car my wife drove in the early 1990s before we got married. The paint is terrible, but I've basically gone through everything on the car and it's been a daily driver for over a decade. Only 95K on the clock from new. We're in the process of moving back to TX, so one of these years I'll get to the paint job.

Car Land vehicle Vehicle Hood Wheel
Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle



Also bought the Sundance from an estate - in 2016. Had 12K original miles. Paid $2K and drove it home.

Had and sold several others, but I'm always looking for a new project. I really, really prefer the off-the-wall stuff. Tops on my list are a first-gen minivan, preferably with woodgrain and a manual trans. Also looking for an early-1990s van with a manual (I owned a 1994, which was the last year for the stick) and a 1992-93 Spirit/Acclaim with a manual.

Glad to assist as needed. That's why we're here. Gotta keep the FWD Mopars on the road!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, that's great stuff. I had a feeling you've been through a few of these types of cars. I'm a 60s, 70s muscle Mopar geek myself, but had the opportunity to buy this Laser and I'm glad I did. It's interesting, and a nice change of pace. It's a rust bucket, so not sure what I'll do with it. Same color as your wife's Daytona.

So, concerning the throttle body, do I use any lube on the O-rings and seals? Do I simply remove all off all the attached components and spray carb cleaner into all the orifices?
 

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Yep, that's pretty much it. I use a light machine oil (just a smear with the index finger) on all the O-rings. If you get that rebuild kit by Standard, the instruction sheet is very detailed, so it's virtually impossible to get tripped up or lost. Once stripped, there's only the main body and power head, so you can certainly blast them with cleaner. Most of the external components (throttle position sensor, pressure regulator, etc.) can be cleaned up and re-used. Good time to replace any of the small vacuum hoses if they're crispy-crunchy.

The only part you have to be super careful with is the AIS motor, which is vertically mounted on the rear of the unit. It's in a plastic enclosure, so just have to be careful when removing/cleaning.

Once off, the whole job takes about an hour.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sounds good except I won't get an instruction sheet since this ebayer said I'll only get the bag of seals/gaskets. Any chance you can send me a copy if you have it? No problem if you don't or just don't feel like it. Thanks Captain!
 

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Sadly I've packed up about 90% of my garage in prep for our upcoming move. The dude's eBay ad has a few enlargeable pictures; here's one. You should be able to zoom in and read as needed. Interesting he'd have a photo of the instruction sheet in his ad and not include it...
 

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If you take apart the Idle control valve to clean it, MARK EVERYTHING very carefully. I took one apart without marking it all and could never get it to idle correctly again. The valve part and the gears all come out easily, but the correct orientation of the body, valve and gears has to go back in EXACTLY the same positions.
 
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