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Which year? The 1984-85 Bosch unit is a tad different than 1986. The early unit has a rectangular (square) retention clip that goes around the left, top, and right sides of the connector. Carefully use a pick and pry the metal clip out and away from either the right or left side and gently work it up and off. The bottom side of the clip has small "ears," but is mostly open. Kind of looks like this:

Rectangle Parallel Font


Just work slowly & carefully so it doesn't "spring" away from you and across the front yard! Once you get the clip off, remove the plug from the injector and place the clip back into its groove in the plug. When you re-install, simply press the harness back on and she'll click into place. Here's a pic:

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The 1986 TBI injector has a domed black cap that slides over the two injector terminals (prongs). Remove the Torx screw from the cap and slowly work it up and off.
 

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FWIW, I'd go with the Mopar (Bosch) replacement for the older unit if I were you. A bit spendy, but still available.


I recently rebuilt the same unit on a Reliant wagon I just sold. Very easy rebuild with all parts readily available. If yours is a 1986, kindly disregard:)

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I agree with where you're going, but would go just a bit further and rebuild the whole throttle body. You never know what's living in the passages, so would be a good opportunity to clean it all up and start fresh. The rebuild is very, very simple. Not many kits left out there, but here's one for under 12 bucks total:

 

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Never tried to clean an old injector. Suppose it's possible, but not too sure how effective a layman's cleaning would be...especially with the intricacies of the early Bosch injectors. I've always replaced when necessary. When I got the Reliant a few years ago it was really fumbling, bumbling, and chugging along (mostly from lack of use & neglect). The new injector and throttle body rebuild was just the ticket. And to be honest, when I get a "new" car I typically go through all this kind of stuff anyway, since parts are still plentiful and relatively cheap.

Not an expert by any stretch, just a hobbyist who's taken apart and rebuilt a few FWD Dodges, so I've seen a lot over the past 20-30 years. Sold new/used Chry-Plym-Jeep-Eagle-Dodge in the early-to-mid-90s as well, so have been a fan for a while.

My current FWDs are a 1986 Daytona and a 1989 Sundance RS - both naturally aspirated 2.5L with automatics. I picked up the Daytona from an estate sale in Virginia in 2011 when I was TDY. Paid next to nothing for it (except for the car carrier fee to take it back to TX). Reason I bought it is that it's an exact duplicate of the car my wife drove in the early 1990s before we got married. The paint is terrible, but I've basically gone through everything on the car and it's been a daily driver for over a decade. Only 95K on the clock from new. We're in the process of moving back to TX, so one of these years I'll get to the paint job.

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Also bought the Sundance from an estate - in 2016. Had 12K original miles. Paid $2K and drove it home.

Had and sold several others, but I'm always looking for a new project. I really, really prefer the off-the-wall stuff. Tops on my list are a first-gen minivan, preferably with woodgrain and a manual trans. Also looking for an early-1990s van with a manual (I owned a 1994, which was the last year for the stick) and a 1992-93 Spirit/Acclaim with a manual.

Glad to assist as needed. That's why we're here. Gotta keep the FWD Mopars on the road!
 

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Yep, that's pretty much it. I use a light machine oil (just a smear with the index finger) on all the O-rings. If you get that rebuild kit by Standard, the instruction sheet is very detailed, so it's virtually impossible to get tripped up or lost. Once stripped, there's only the main body and power head, so you can certainly blast them with cleaner. Most of the external components (throttle position sensor, pressure regulator, etc.) can be cleaned up and re-used. Good time to replace any of the small vacuum hoses if they're crispy-crunchy.

The only part you have to be super careful with is the AIS motor, which is vertically mounted on the rear of the unit. It's in a plastic enclosure, so just have to be careful when removing/cleaning.

Once off, the whole job takes about an hour.
 

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Sadly I've packed up about 90% of my garage in prep for our upcoming move. The dude's eBay ad has a few enlargeable pictures; here's one. You should be able to zoom in and read as needed. Interesting he'd have a photo of the instruction sheet in his ad and not include it...
 

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From the Illinois side of St. Louis (brought here by the Air Force...now that I'm retired I don't have to stay) to Corpus Christi.

If you've ever been to Illinois, you'll understand why people are leaving by the thousands.
 

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Sorry...was up in WI for a few days and away from the ol' PC. That part is called a HOSE and SEAL KIT, Pressure Regulator, part number 4287324. Looks like Arizona Parts has it for 12 bucks:

 

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BTW, not 100% sure that "L"-shaped hose is anything but a simple vacuum elbow. If so, could probably substitute any properly sized elbow from the parts store - or simply loop a small piece of vac hose into a cursive "J" shape. It's probably 7/32" or 1/4"...

Just noticed your earlier post as well. I live on the north side of Collinsville, near I-55/70 and Hwy 159. One of my former work mates lives in Waterloo, so I've been down there a few times. You have a good Rural King and the Sears Hardware store. You're only 40-45 minutes away. Definitely down for lunch and a meet-and greet one of these days.

I'm a retired intel officer who closed out my active duty career at Scott AFB. I stayed on for four-plus years as an Air Force civilian before resigning in June. I've done a little work with some NGA folks, both at the (old) St. Louis facility as well as with liaisons based at Scott and in Northern Virginia.
 

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Pretty sure it has to go to the bottom. The clip may slide into the groove on the plug either way, but there's a protrusion on the bottom of the injector which the opening of the clip has to straddle.

The injector plug's male side has small retaining ears on the left and right sides, nothing on top, and that full protrusion on the bottom. Can't see how it would go on upside-down; it wouldn't clear that ridge on the bottom:

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