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Lots of good info glrcng:

If you don't mind me asking, are you running a stock open diff or locked or ??.

A local guy ran a welded diff. in his Daytona and it soon ripped the firewall right apart.

Thanks
Randy
Stock, diff, installed the Original Direct Connection available lower 1st and 2nd gearsets (bought over the counter from the Direct Connection Catalog from a local Chrysler Dodge dealership in San Juan Capistrano in So Cal late 93' or early 94' and the Non-reverse valve body improvement kit from Turbo Action in Jacksonville, FL at same time, remove the valve body, drilled 2 holes, added some stiffer, and some lighter springs, added or replaced some steel balls, and replaced provided gaskets too, all by their specific parts supplied and detailed instructions, and I still have all the old parts and instructions somewhere here in my car stuff I have on a shelf.

Was supposed to stiffen and make it shift more positive, quicker and a lot more consistency in etc and increase mph, and it did. Was bracket racing it first bone stock beyond the transaxle changes, but car ran at and below the GF/SA Index at the time. Competitive brackets, not yet for stock, but potential was there in 93' won 8-9 street bracket races in first six months including first night I had it on the track, but had raced 2 decades other cars by then too.

About 3 months later, I bought the 20" tall 14" X 6" M.T. E.T. FWD Slicks used from a friend that stock raced an 83 Omni, he went new, I wanted them to reduce gearing further.

Then we were moving from Socal to N.W., AZ in 94' closed up our new install landscape business, in 94' CA economy was junk, we had Northridge, and Twentynine Palms quakes the same day, and we moved within a week, took me until December to finish up all jobs in Socal, apart from family.

I'm 94, I ran 4 Div. Races to build points total to qualify non-wait list to qualify to enter National events by just submitting entry form and fees.. Had purchased a custom Turbo-Action Converter in mid 94, that was the key.

Wife let me go on NHRA tour, national and Div. Events, was gone Feb, to June 95, then returned home, drove car event to event the whole way.

No damages to firewall, but did replace the stock transaxle mount the other day, and did so when I added the converter too, this time it was completely torn. Have not raced the car since Spring 97, until the car diet, and powerplant upgrades doing now. This engine does not make enough HP to damage that firewall, and with the Wt. Box in the A/C mount, and bolted to the right front behind headlights to the frame, it is rock solid, zero movement forward and back.

I can imagine a welded diff would. It needs to work it not fight moving a slow sled.
 

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The converter out of the box had a pinhole leak in the balloon weld ( tiny tiny leak, like a few drips an hr out of the bellhousing, I was headed to Gainsville anyway that spring in 95, bolted a banana nut bread pan to that bottom bolt of the inspection plate, with a sham wow shimmy in the pan, pulled it out after The Gatornationals, sent it to Jacksonville, they fixed the weld, reworked it and replaced it, and it has been in the car since April of 95, engine is out now, since JAN 22, and It has not moved from its perch. It has a set of the stock non-equal length half shafts, have replaced on short and one long one, but they has 72K street miles on em before the racing began, and it now has 92,882 miles on the car, in family since dealer new Feb. 85. 3rd week Dec. Mfg date, 38 yrs. Old. New Trans side mount, fluid and filter 3 nights ago as Ross Pistons finally being forged now.

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Does that look like 25 yr old Trans fluid? Smells good still, and I ran the car 3 mins before pulling the engine In Jan. Just to warm things up to make bolts easier to remove, 13 race gas was clear, clean, smelled ok, engine spun over easy by ratchet, pumped out a gal. In clear jug it was fine, checked injector screen, no gum up. Started right up on a battery that has an 09 sticker on it, day we moved it to new home on the trailer and put 10 gals of Sunoco Purple in it. Race Gas was red instead of purple 13 yrs later but still good, pumped out about a gallon and a half before dropping and removing gas tank, all clear inside zero sediment or rust. All the bearings looked like new except the thrust bearing (a lil wear), still going 20 thou over on bore and hone, first rebuild ever.

But, all while racing, was changing the oil and other fluid as they were all free, a case of everything per event in the 90's, and I did not want to carry all that around, so used it a lot.
 

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A/C Condenser was converted to Trans cooler in 94 so there was a lit more fluid in system than the pan too, so it always ran cool, even on the HWY or track.

Hoses and that core held a lot.
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If you find some on 5 lug please tell me. Not sure where to look
I bought them on e-bay from Detroit Axle. They have a shop there. The have the 5 lug front hubs with bearings and seals, and brake disks 5 lug, they were out of stock on rear stuff at the time...eventually the 14" X 20" X 6" slicks, when they die, sold no more, smallest avail now are 25" tall, 15" Rim X 6", so, no need to switch rear drums, but will eventually need to go 15" fronts.

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1984 Daytona. AF/S
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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I removed the under-dash heater and AC parts, my hands and knuckles are really paying. I removed all of the wirings under the dash ad engine compartment. I need to find 400+ lbs of weight. trying to get the rear hatch open . I do not have keys
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
here are the NHRA blueprints

 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
here is a little look in to engine development this is just outside the doors or Warran Johnson or WJ the professor of Pro Stock beating on a 500 inch pro stock engine. close to 1500 hp with out any power adders and at 10,500 rpms

 

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Not sure if it’s been said since I haven’t read all of it but Gary Donovan is a great source of info. I’m sure it’s been supplied here, but here’s his website

Boodles of info. He’s kind of a legend in this community
Yes he is, read his site all the time, more than valuable.
If you find some on 5 lug please tell me. Not sure where to look
GTurboZ, are you talking about the 5 lug hub and bearing and seals sets, or the 5 lug wheels?
I purchased the hubs from Detroit Axle on e-bay, for a change out in the future only, while they were cheap about 2 years ago, And I saw them when I was looking for new hubs for Buick Regal at the time, but punched in the 84 Daytona and they just happend to ask 4 lug or 5 lug, punched up 5 for fun, there they were 35.00 each, snatched them up and shelved em as I knew this project getting the car back on track was coming soon, (the front brake disks are avaliable in 5 lug for the fronts to do the switchover at Napa, Autozone and a bunch of online auto parts places) eventually to 15" as mine has 14" X 4 lug 100mm bolt circle, and plenty of rims come close enough on Jegs, Walmart, etc in 15" 5 lug X 6.5", I really have no real need to do the 15" on the rear casters that are just along for the ride running on FWD 25" tall slicks (nobody sells the 14" Rim size X 6" X 20" tall fwd slicks), and eventually mine will be no longer useful due to age and wear holes. You may also try Parts Geek, Rock Auto and others. Parts geek has had a lot of my replacement parts money since I started this in January, and it ships and arrives fast.
 

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here are the NHRA blueprints

Yes sir Mine is the 3rd 1 down the 99HP TBI with the 4323418 Manifold, the 0438200002 upright single point injection Bosch Throttle Body (Looking for another spare, as I never have been able to loosen a single screw on mine for the AIS, or throttle plates adjustment, luckily both are still working and set originally correct, but we're overnighter when produced, and the AIS plastic body and all Alum. Rest of the throttle body just whispers to me ("Don't you dare smack me with that hammer ever), everytime I reach for the right tool I know would loosen those slot headed bolts, (a hammer and 1 of my 2 impact drivers). CYL HEAD is the 4323287, and my block is the 2.2L 15th week of 84 cast date 5 rear pan bolts and the bolt holes protrude looking down from the rear of the engine (not hidden looking from the top of the block rear), and the internal webbing not as much meat by any means compared to that flat rear pan rail block.

All my combustion chambers CC'd at 50.0cc, 50.2cc, 50.0cc, 50.1cc (Min. Is 48.4cc all- leaving it at that to allow for future cleanup of head surface, looks new again now). Bathtub type comb. Chambers, new valve seals, springs Outer w/damper, matched wt, and heights, spring pressure even.

TurboDodgeParts.com did a great job on it in GA, the first valve job ever, and it is nice (seats, valves, guides were all good), flat top forged Ross Pistons NHRA acceptable replacements #69194), only set they have actually forged so far beyond the original sample provided to NHRA decades ago...Since I am the only fool ever so far raced the TBI slow sled 84 Daytona 135 cu in 2.2L combo in NHRA Stock Elim., going in the holes at .020 thou over the actual bore after getting rid of the 92,800 mile upper ridge is gone, the bore is starting at 3.445- not the published 3.440 (so final bore and hone will be 3.465 Plus appropriate clearances) , actual .025 over, still leaving plenty of room for whoever eventually ends up with this car, not getting any younger at 65 years old), stroke 3.620, HD Rods 5.096 length shot peened, new Torque to yield rod bolts and nuts, Deck surface 9.360, HD gasket is Felpro PermaTorque .068, PT lash adjusters w/shims, New slider rockers, 2" Spring Installed height, pin dia:.901, length 2.245, comp ratio 10.23:1, total final balance. Assembly wt (using Untouched #4 Rod (Piston, pin, locks, ringset, rod, bolts, nuts, and bearing set 1,169 grams min. Balancing 3 to approx. 1,172-1,174 grams weighed as an assembly). Ring grooves 1.5,1.5,3.0, top of upper ring groove to top of piston 0.250, min compress ht. 1.535. R.R. 1.61,H. Lash adj/lifter, max cam lift .445/.445 measured at the rekeyway. (Zero lash), using an adj. Solid lash adjuster. Cam is a Reed Cam special grind that Mr. Shull sold me via this site he once used in his AF/S Stocker that set MPH, then both ends of the National Record with, measured up at .444 Exhaust/.432 Intake, 107 degree Centerline, installed right now 3 degrees advanced with a D.C. adj. Cam Sprocket @the 0 keyway and red offset 3 degree key to the right, lots of overlap and duration on that cam, interesting lobes to say the very least, looks like none of the other 3 cams I already owned. Closest the others came to it was .432 I/.438 E. 106cl, ran best at 2 degrees ret. On a white offset key inserted left in 0 sprocket keyway.

BTW, anyone needing a .520 lift Brand new never run Lunati Special Grind Cam for a 2.2L/135 as it not only fits in my head, but hits my valve seals, when it was slowly rolled over either direction on both intake and exhaust valves to a max of .480 I/ .470 E, and it still had a quarter inch of the lobe not wet by my install lube to go, before it hit the lobe lift centerline and there is no room in the valve guides to trim, not to mention it far exceeds my allowable legal lift on both lobes. I will make you a great deal.

Called Lunati tech, it is numbered with an S (for special grind, too old though brand new in the box, and old catalogs may have the tech info and cam specs listed, but they have no info on the number beyond special ground for a Mopar 2.2L customer early 2000's.
 

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BTW Greg, that care pkg of blocker plates, trim buttons, went out today, on the way to you my middle Son said. Grind edges, drill holes, bend per pics above to fit, polish with scotchbrite, and paint or not. Enjoy my friend, and none of my 3 books show the removal procedure on that main firewall loom wiring plug. Checking YT vids next. Will call you tomorrow if I find it.
 

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Greg, about that rear hatch, as you have stripped out dash and engine bay wiring already, and there are 2 plastic push buttons that go in the lower rear plastic 2 tone hatch panel, you cannot pull that inner trim panel off (properly at least), and they are pretty rare to find, and expensive if you do find 1 eventually, without opening the hatch first. Please stop pulling wires anywhere toward the rear at this point anywhere rearward of the front of the front seats, as there is a hatch button in the console gloves area. Open the console glove box lid first, then get any 12 volt battery that is charged, make up 2 leads with alligator clips at both ends. Next up grab a Phillips screw driver and remove the 2 screws forward of the left fuel door and on right hatch buttons. Very carefully as there are 2 retaing clips on the right and left auto electric window button panel release 1 pry of the pin to pad electric connector a bit on one side, the release the other side and rock the window switch panel off the pins. You will see 1 of my retaining locks has been missing for years, switches still will work if reinstalled correctly. Set switch panel aside. Now look in, see the 2 screws in the pic, remove them to release the box with the fuel door/ hatch switches in it, disconnect the connector with the 2 lt. Green wires, should have just disconnected the fuel door, stop and jump with your leads positive from battery to 1, and negative to the other, and only do so very fast and momentary and you should hear a click and the fuel door open up. Hopefully that happened. That will allow you to remove fuel cap, take out 3 screws holding fuel filler tube from fuel tank after dropping the tank, that also is a pain in the butt to say the least if switching to a fuel cell, it destroyed my big rubber washer where the filler tube enters the tank even coating it with oil. Ok now you should be able to lift that 2 switch box out, locate the 2 other leads which probably lead back to the hatch lock, ( I am not going to disassemble mine further, but once you locate where the disconnect plug is for the hatch wires leading back to the rear of the car or the other end of the hatch switch, use your leads and momentarily give it a 12 volt touch, and I hope you again heard a click as the hatch lock released.

If so, get out, and open the hatch. Now, small thin flathead screwdriver 2 gray buttons on upper edge of the inner big trim panel inside car rear panel below hatch, remove those 2 long trim buttons pulling straight up, then on both ends up high on the panel remove both Phillips screws
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Yes he is, read his site all the time, more than valuable.

GTurboZ, are you talking about the 5 lug hub and bearing and seals sets, or the 5 lug wheels?
I purchased the hubs from Detroit Axle on e-bay, for a change out in the future only, while they were cheap about 2 years ago, And I saw them when I was looking for new hubs for Buick Regal at the time, but punched in the 84 Daytona and they just happend to ask 4 lug or 5 lug, punched up 5 for fun, there they were 35.00 each, snatched them up and shelved em as I knew this project getting the car back on track was coming soon, (the front brake disks are avaliable in 5 lug for the fronts to do the switchover at Napa, Autozone and a bunch of online auto parts places) eventually to 15" as mine has 14" X 4 lug 100mm bolt circle, and plenty of rims come close enough on Jegs, Walmart, etc in 15" 5 lug X 6.5", I really have no real need to do the 15" on the rear casters that are just along for the ride running on FWD 25" tall slicks (nobody sells the 14" Rim size X 6" X 20" tall fwd slicks), and eventually mine will be no longer useful due to age and wear holes. You may also try Parts Geek, Rock Auto and others. Parts geek has had a lot of my replacement parts money since I started this in January, and it ships and arrives fast.
I meant the 5 Lug Swiss cheese wheels haha. I’m all set for the other stuff. I have a 5 lug car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Thanks so much GLRCNG for all the help. I’m moving along fast.
Ok the 5 lug are 5 X 100 mm. On a roll tonight.Thanks on the hatch. I still have the wiring to rear of the car. All of the under hood wiring is out in one piece, once I get the main bulkhead connector to let loose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Funny story. I have been sponsored by GM racing for years. I haven't raced as a driver for the last 4. I had put in for a Stock eliminator body 4 years ago and never heard back. The program is where flood-damaged vehicles are sold with a racing only title for very cheap. For example, a V6 Camaro delivered was about $2500.
I was going to be my normal unusual racer and run FGT of factory GT with a new car and old engine. I was going to 40 409 hp. NHRA said that the rules were for an old car and a new type of engine. I was not interested in that well in the last few days GM contacted me on a car and NHRA reversed the new motor in an old car too, a new car with an old motor. The problem is even with the basic free car the drive line will cost me about $25,000.
The bottom line is I'm sticking with this old Dodge.
 
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BTW Greg, that care pkg of blocker plates, trim buttons, went out today, on the way to you my middle Son said. Grind edges, drill holes, bend per pics above to fit, polish with scotchbrite, and paint or not. Enjoy my friend, and none of my 3 books show the removal procedure on that main firewall loom wiring plug. Checking YT vids next. Will call you tomorrow if I find it.
Ok on the rear hatch, got to the rear, removed my back panel, and figured out an easier way, look at the below pics at inside rear of car before following any of the other stuff having to do with the center console glove box, but if you get hatch open this easier way, you may still need to jump the fuel door the console way to get fuel filler tube out of tank.

Ok back seats are out, pull carpet toward front of car, lift out spare tire well cover, remove everything from the spare tire well and climb in the well, now you cannot remove 2 of the 6 trim buttons on the rear panel, they are between the panel top, and the closed hatch an pull out vertically, I used a trim tool remover, and fingernails to start them, remove all 4 gray ones, 2 on each side of rear hatch 2 tone large trim panel below hatch, and the 3 Phillips screws along lower middle of the panel, and the 4 black press in locks to the gray trim buttons, then study the pics of my orange trim tool to locate the key lick rod and orange hatch release bent rod. You will look at the pic, pull lower edge of the panel gently toward you while from down in the well hooking your arm up underneath the trim panel, feel around on left side of center for the rod and back of key cylinder and locate that really easy to unlatch soft orange rod connector, when you locate it, rotate it up off the rod, pull rod out of locked cylinder, pull rod slightly to passenger side and pop goes the hatch latch Get out and open the hatch. Pull top 2 gray trim buttons out,, and the black retainers.. Get wrench to fit back of the lock cylinder and remove it, later after replacing cylinder, rehook up rod, replace the panel and all attaching hardware and trim buttons. Good luck, and try not to Crack that nearly 40 year old plastic. I can show pics, but the bulkhead and my cell that spare tire well is filled up, but had plenty of flexibility as I pulled the bottom edge about a foot into toward toward the spare tire well attempting it, and plenty of room to get an arm up in there to simply feel, locate the rod and clip, disconnect the rod, pull it out of lock arm and pull the rod left to unlatch the hatch! Good luck there Greg, or shall I say good latch...

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BTW Greg, that care pkg of blocker plates, trim buttons, went out today, on the way to you my middle Son said. Grind edges, drill holes, bend per pics above to fit, polish with scotchbrite, and paint or not. Enjoy my friend, and none of my 3 books show the removal procedure on that main firewall loom wiring plug. Checking YT vids next. Will call you tomorrow if I find it.
 

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No problem Greg, the way I texted you about opening it from the spare tire well after partially undoing that rear panel from inside hit me while I was detailing the console way, but could only find the fuel door button wiring, so I stopped, took my rear apart to get pics, disconnect the rod clip, and boom hatch open. So I just texted that to you instead, it was easier, and really no longer even knew if you had enough wiring (correct routing of wires), to trigger either with a 12 volt hit on the wires once you located the right wires, figured it may need the fuse box too, so mechanically figured out easy way with hatch closed.

Glad you got them done.

Was telling you about Bernie Cunningham (The Aussie), drove a late 60's Chevy Nova, finished 8th in 1994, 13th in 1995, and GM sold him a brand new Camaro for a single $1.00 in December of 1995, was back out in 1996 in that Camaro but it cost him a bunch to go fast. But, that was 25 years ago. A lot of the Factory Showdown Stockers were Factory sold to drivers cheaply, updating them costs huge though like you said, much bigger budget cars, just like the bigger, faster, 60's muscle cars, either, rarity of body and engine parts kill the wallet, or Newness, and expense of making them go fast kills the wallet, these slower 80's Mopars race same category, the capabilites are now endless on while slower, they can be competitive since recent rules changes, we can do more, while at the same time, compared to an A/SA Big block Savoy, Challenger, or the like, we get to race them, but our budgets do not even compare a bit, and since the recent rules changes (in the 25 years I sat out), a lot of these are now qualifying #1 repeatedly since they combined the FWD classes into just AAF/S -EF/S, and did away with FF/S and GF/S, and just through the 100 extra pounds on the manually clutch shifted FWD cars so really reduced it by a bunch of the slower classes. From GF/SA Index 17.45 25.00 Lbs then to now EF/S same wt to hp, same Index, 11 percent fewer HP, and 275 lbs lighter at 99 hp from 110 hp. (But, that was their fault, there was never any data to even support that for the TBI, my car combo was the only data they ever had. Just glad I did not do all the work then to make it fly (for the class at least), though spent as much competing with it and while running under index, was not truly competitive with the fast classes, but got a bunch of Class Win Wally's. I do not mind going slow if the budget required is lower, but want to be class fast and competitive in the category, paying more attention to the tree you pack up in the hatchback and take with you, all while reaching the 660' line before they even have a light to leave on, than working to just make the car go faster and eking another quarter HP out of the combo. (When you talk about starting with under a hundred HP, a 2 cubic ft square pretty much hollow chunk of cast iron, and a 14' long fairly heavy midsize car (was 2,763 lbs, now 2,475 lbs.)... when I disassembled the short block, had it on a pallet at the base of my Harbinger Freight Pittsburgh 1 ton Engine hoist, stripped it out all but the intermediate shaft bearings, stared at the tiny block next to that car, and flat even wondered how that thing even pulled that car using 1 fuel injector a quarter mile. I have seen go cart, and lawnmower engines bigger. LMAO

My block work (clean, line bore, blueprint, balance 3 assembles to 1 existing, new Forged Pistons, rings, rods reworked, bored and honed 20 thou over to fit those new rotators correctly, crank balanced, all new bearings, the head finally cleaned & cut, 50 percent plus new matched and upgraded parts, all new gaskets, short block assembly done right instead of nearly 90K Factory assembled and used up, a barely used former record setting cam, ...a lot of new parts and pcs the car needed after sitting in my garage 25 years, rubber does not last in AZ ozone well, painting cavities never touched like engine bay (through 3 exterior paint jobs), fuel cell and bulkheads, the -275 lb plus diet to make new wt., upgraded EFI fuel system, really too much to even list, as I have nutted and bolted the whole car in 7 months, and possibly from what you said the biggest issue of all solved if the Holley Dominator EFI system replaces the locked out ECU and garbage Power Module (both of which I also just replaced), also allowing laptop tuning so I can throw out the getting around the EFI limitations and start learning to use it the right and much improved since 1984 way.

But, compare so far to an AS/A 426 Wedge or 440 six pack simple refresh upper and lower rebuild, there is flat no comparison, as I did almost the whole car for the price of their not doing anything outside the engine bay (and you are going twice what I did so far as I have a totally nearly rust free CA, AZ car that was garaged or driveway covered car 98 percent of its 38 yr lifetime), and the whole car used from a family member in 93' only cost me 3 grand to start, and running on the Index.

A Savoy today decent roller, no drive train, sat years and years is 10 times the starting cost, and twice that again to make competitive, and a lot more to make it a class winner. Just want to go have fun, enjoy it with my wife and 3 grown boys, maybe even the 4 grand kids a few years, get back to racing again, then pass it on to somebody that wants to race, and not have it sit taking up space in my garage unless I am.

Wife and kids all went to college and are off having kids or building lives, High School Science Teacher Wifey will retire in a couple or few years, I just turned 65, covid sucks, the economy just as bad, outdoor socially distanced racing sounds a lot better than indoor robotics team mentoring totally close quarters indoor shop time and gym or arena events, we have been doing for past 13 yrs as a whole family, before that it was indoor social rm private clubs non-profit volunteering from 97-2011 worked up to F O E AZ State Past President 2009-2010. Been a very busy 25 yrs, but wife asked me New Years Eve 2021 "Do you miss it?" (I thought she was talking about High School Robotics mentoring, as I cut it down to mentoring online, due to covid last 2 yrs., I said "miss what?"

Surprised the hell outta me...She said "Drag Racing"...My eyes got big,cand I said, every single day the last 25 years, she said You know I will be retiring soon, let's do something finally with that car in the garage.

Lol, I started Jan 1. Had to unbury the car first, filled a 15 yard bin that arrived the next day, went through my office, every other room in the house, and the garage, dumped 20 yrs of IT business debris and e-waste, started on Jan 10th on the car, and piston order almost completed, as they finally started them July 27th.Short block, maybe done by middle of August, racing in September I hope and Div. and class racing Oct, Nov. We shall see soon. Still plenty to do, but the car is almost ready for the new and improved heart transplant. And still lots of improvements to be made.
 

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View attachment 282046
BTW Greg, that care pkg of blocker plates, trim buttons, went out today, on the way to you my middle Son said. Grind edges, drill holes, bend per pics above to fit, polish with scotchbrite, and paint or not. Enjoy my friend, and none of my 3 books show the removal procedure on that main firewall loom wiring plug. Checking YT vids next. Will call you tomorrow if I find it.
Ok on the rear hatch, got to the rear, removed my back panel, and figured out an easier way, look at the below pics at inside rear of car before following any of the other stuff having to do with the center console glove box, but if you get hatch open this easier way, you may still need to jump the fuel door the console way to get fuel filler tube out of tank.

Ok back seats are out, pull carpet toward front of car, lift out spare tire well cover, remove everything from the spare tire well and climb in the well, now you cannot remove 2 of the 6 trim buttons on the rear panel, they are between the panel top, and the closed hatch an pull out vertically, I used a trim tool remover, and fingernails to start them, remove all 4 gray ones, 2 on each side of rear hatch 2 tone large trim panel below hatch, and the 3 Phillips screws along lower middle of the panel, and the 4 black press in locks to the gray trim buttons, then study the pics of my orange trim tool to locate the key lick rod and orange hatch release bent rod. You will look at the pic, pull lower edge of the panel gently toward you while from down in the well hooking your arm up underneath the trim panel, feel around on left side of center for the rod and back of key cylinder and locate that really easy to unlatch soft orange rod connector, when you locate it, rotate it up off the rod, pull rod out of locked cylinder, pull rod slightly to passenger side and pop goes the hatch latch Get out and open the hatch. Pull top 2 gray trim buttons out,, and the black retainers.. Get wrench to fit back of the lock cylinder and remove it, later after replacing cylinder, rehook up rod, replace the panel and all attaching hardware and trim buttons. Good luck, and try not to Crack that nearly 40 year old plastic. I can show pics, but the bulkhead and my cell that spare tire well is filled up, but had plenty of flexibility as I pulled the bottom edge about a foot into toward toward the spare tire well attempting it, and plenty of room to get an arm up in there to simply feel, locate the rod and clip, disconnect the rod, pull it out of lock arm and pull the rod left to unlatch the hatch! Good luck there Greg, or shall I say good latch...

View attachment 282045
View attachment 282042
View attachment 282044
View attachment 282043
View attachment 282041
BTW Greg, that care pkg of blocker plates, trim buttons, went out today, on the way to you my middle Son said. Grind edges, drill holes, bend per pics above to fit, polish with scotchbrite, and paint or not. Enjoy my friend, and none of my 3 books show the removal procedure on that main firewall loom wiring plug. Checking YT vids next. Will call you tomorrow if I find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Ok. Back to work this afternoon. I need a drivers window if anyone knows where one is.
I have been working on a cam design for this and I’m not sure the truth will come out until I get on the dyno.
 
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