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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I'm new here but just had to find someone who knows what ther talking about. I just did alot of work on my 90 spirit 2.5. new 50 trim turbo and manifold from turbos unleashed. Fuel pump, injectors,cam,stage 5 cal from fwd performance. Runs great! But very low boost! And only at very high rpm. Like 4 or 5 lbs. What gives?! Boost gauge shows vac and boost. Air fuel seems fine. Turbo seems like it's not spinning fast enough. Could it be waste gate or the disconnected egr? Everything s great other then the boost issue.
 

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What swingvalve and what exhaust housing is on the turbo? How much preload did you put on swingvalve actuator? EGR has nothing to do with it. Assuming you did plug the passages on intake and swingvalve for the removed EGR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What swingvalve and what exhaust housing is on the turbo? How much preload did you put on swingvalve actuator? EGR has nothing to do with it. Assuming you did plug the passages on intake and swingvalve for the removed EGR.
I plugged the egr hole on the exhaust . But the egr valve it self is still on the intake with no vac lines hooked up to it. Could boost leak through that? Probly a dumb question.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The exhaust turbine is a .63 I believe from turbos unleashed. The swing valve is 2.25 stock. I just got a 2.50 but haven't installed it yet. I forgot to mention about the egr, the egr tube port on the intake and exhaust are both plugged. But the egr valve itself is still on the bottom of the intake with no vac lines hooked up. Should I pull that off and plug that hole as well? It seems to me that it's a leak point but then again I don't know .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Stock CBV?
Is the wastegate lever hooked up to the actuator?
Yea it's hooked up ther may not be enough pre load. It's all new stuff so it's all totally not dialedin yet. I'm thinking it's gotta have somthing to do with the wastegate .
 

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I think I know what you problem is. The new casting .63 housings were made incorrectly when they were cast. Somehow, the location of the wastegate hole was moved between the prototypes and the production units. This wasn't discovered until the batch of .63 housings were delivered. TU's fix was to provide the users with an enlarged wastegate puck in the swingvalve. That fix worked, but not quite a bolt in... I had to deal with this on my friends GLHS Omni. IIRC, TU's 3" swingvalves came with a larger than stock puck which covered up the mismatched hole. Not sure why this wasn't included or addressed in your situation. Here is a couple pics I took back in the day with dealing with my friends .63 housing. Not sure why 1st photo is rotated incorrectly. As you can see it is off by a bunch!
IMG_7948.JPG IMG_8197.JPG IMG_8196.JPG
NOS S-60 .63 housing on left, and new TU .63 housing on the right. Clearly you can see how far the hole has been moved. The scribe marks are there for reference points. They are in the same location on each housing. In a nutshell, your late spool is caused by the swingvalves inability to seal up the incorrect location of the wastegate hole. It is bleeding exhaust pressure right by the puck currently, instead of spooling the turbos turbine. I would call TU about getting the bigger puck. IMO, the pucks were not made correctly either. Notice the second and third picture. That is WAY too much slop in the hole and the puck. That loose pin is the stock "stepped" pin on a Garrett swingvalve. I ended up welding the hole in swingvalve closed, redrilled, then tig welded with washers on the back side. TU's solution apparently is mushrooming the end into the hole. I deemed that not acceptable. I probably have a picture of my friends modified swingvalve somewhere, but can't find it at the moment.

Actuator pre-load should be adjusted so approx half of rod eyelet is showing on rod before it is pushed onto rod. hope you understand what I'm sayin.
Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok I get what your saying. I just got a 2.50 swing valve from fwd performance do you think that will fix this issue? I'm gonna pull off the old one this Wednesday hopefully. That did send that wastegate puck but I may have not installed it perfectly I do believe this is the problem. I hope the new swing valve will do the trick.
 

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Ok I get what your saying. I just got a 2.50 swing valve from fwd performance do you think that will fix this issue? I'm gonna pull off the old one this Wednesday hopefully. That did send that wastegate puck but I may have not installed it perfectly I do believe this is the problem. I hope the new swing valve will do the trick.
I do not believe the Turbonetics swingvalves that Cindy sells has a larger or much larger puck than factory. FYI, both Garrett and Turbonetics sold the 2.5' swingvalves for our applications. Cindy bought out the remaining stock from Turbonetics back a few years ago. I was contacted by Turbonetics to see if I wanted to buy the remaining swingvalve stock. The price was right, but the quantity wasn't (lol).
So you did or did not install the larger swingvalve puck in your 2.25" swingvalve? IMO, that 2.25" swingvalve is seriously dampening the flow of the exhaust system (post turbine).
One thing that you can do after dropping the exhaust system is to squirt some contrasting paint up the outlet of the swingvalve to check the matching or mismatching of the two components. Guys do that when porting the wastegate hole in the housing. Just enlarging the hole doesn't work well because of the mismatching potential.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok cool thanks that helps. i did install it but i think its to sloppy like you said. i do have an extra puck from turbos unleashed maybe ill try puting it on my new 2.50 swingvalve. ill still need to figure out the slop issue though,i dont have a welder so hopfully i can figure somthing out.
 

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ok cool thanks that helps. i did install it but i think its to sloppy like you said. i do have an extra puck from turbos unleashed maybe ill try puting it on my new 2.50 swingvalve. ill still need to figure out the slop issue though,i dont have a welder so hopfully i can figure somthing out.
Unless you live in the middle of the sticks somewhere, someone close by could probably weld this up for you. Nothing else is going to hold up to the heat that swingvalve sees. It took me like 15 minutes start to finish welding my friends up. Just remember you need to have some movement in the puck (like the factory ones) because of the tolerances in housings and swingvalves. Make it tight, and it will never seal.
Your welcome for the advice, anytime.
Good luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
im gonna do it tuesday or wendsday ill let you know how it went. i knew it was the wastegate by the way it was behaiving. very low boost at 5 grand seemed like it wasnt spooling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I looked at my new swing valve and ther are washers behind the puckto keep it sealed against the turbine housing when shut. Mine doesn't have those washers and all that slop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So assuming this is the problem and everything is good after this , after this my car should finally be ready for some testing. All these things I've mentioned are totally new! I've never driven the car since all these mods. Or really at all since I got it two years ago. I've been slowly buying parts and stashing them away for this. So with these mods complete what no numbers do you think I'm looking at safely being able to run? I've done the fuel system with the regular treatment + 40s fuel pump, regulator,the fwd performance stage 5 cal . The 50 trim turbo with the turbos unleashed header, pt lifters the turbos unleashed cam intercooler all the stuff I could think of. The block is stock. I will be doing pistons and rods eventually. Also what's your opinion on pistons? Thers two brands I see alot of are that both similar in quality? I forget the names one starts with a v? Viola or somthing? Or the wiscos? Lots of questions I know. And I thank you for any ideas. Ever since my gosh Omni I had years ago I've known what these cars are capable of and always wanted one again. So I got the closest thing I could. The spirit. And I just got an 89 Daytona. On turbo sadly but I have all the old stuff from the spirit so maybe I'll save it for a nother build.
 

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Venolia pistons are strong but ancient as far as design. I think they actually closed up shop within the last couple years. There are several companies that have made forged pistons for our cars. Venolia, Wiseco, Aries, CP, Diamond, Ross, JE,. They all get the job done, but I think the JE's are hard to beat as far as lightness, current technology, price, machining tolerances, and options on ring and pin.

I personally don't buy stocked piston sets. I like the option of having to set my own compression/pin height (CH), ring design, compression ratio, ring pack design, valve relief size and depths, I always upgrade rings, and usually upgrade pins.

Buy and install a wide band o2. They will make tuning much easier. Lots of good ones on the market. I usually run an AEM.

Boost on pump fuel with a staged calibration is a crap shoot. You might be able to run as low as 16 PSI or as high as 21 PSI. Too many variables. Your stock Mahle pistons will hold up well as long as you don't get into detonation. That will kill them quickly. It will also kill a forged piston, but they will take more abuse. Don't even think about running hypereutectic pistons. Porting cylinder head is huge gain and huge money. Save up for that.
 
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