Either buy the fuel pressure gauge, or rent one from a parts store. Though with all the hackjobs out there ruining their tools, I can see why renting one would be a questionable decision, though I was told they were tested at each return/rental,
Your MAP sensor will be on your logic module, which is located behind your passenger kickpanel, on the right side of the car, under the dash.
I would verify timing is spot on, and be sure to get your timing belt tensioned right. While running at idle, the belt should ride in the center of the camshaft sprocket. Running to the inside is loose, to the outside is tight. Running too tight can cause a snapped camshaft and camshaft journal gouging, loose can cause timing jumps, etc.
So recheck timing first, and time your distributor (with the Collant Temp Sensor unplugged while warm) to 12* BTDC.
You will also have to check fuel pressure while driving, for this bring a buddy. With the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield, go for a ride, and see what pressures you get. IIRC the Lancer does not have a vaccum/boost gauge, so this would ba a good time to get a "test gauge" and tape alongside the FP gauge while driving, it is important to know the fuel pressure levels in relationship to engine vacuum/boost.
At idle (16-20 in-HG [inches of mercury, or vaccum]) fuel pressure should be between 43 and 46 PSI, 43 being a low reading. For every 2 inches of vacuum increase, your fuel pressure should increase 1 psi. So at "atmospheric pressure" which is 0 psi boost/vacuum, you should have 55 psi of fuel pressure or within a lb or two of pressure. For every lb of boost, your fuel pressure should increase 1 psi.
45 PSI Fuel Pressure at idle~20 in-HG of vacuum
20 divided by 2 = 10
at atmospheric pressure, the fuel pressure should be at 55 psi.
An easy test of this is to disconenct your vacuum line from your fuel pressure regulator. Note, engine speeds iwll increase as you are creating a vacuum leak, and car may run slightly rougher, as you are pushing more fuel through that "necessary" at idle.
Fuel Pressure should read~55 PSI.
Now with the vac gause and FP gauge taped to the windshield (and SAFELY conencted, cannot stess this enough, especially on a log car. Gas will leak right onto the exhaust manifold and turbo=kaboom) go for a ride. At 9 psi (stock boost limit during accelleration) you should have a fuel pressure reading of 64 PSI, or very close to it.
It should fall and hold to 7 psi under heavy accelleration, normal operation, and FP will be around 62. You catch what I am trying to say here.
If you have good fuel pressure at idle, with the vac line connected and disconnected, but low FP while driving, it is a safe bet that your pump is slowly dying, you have a restriction/clog in your fuel lines, or both. If it cannot hold steady pressure, more than liekly your fuel pressure regulator is going bad, and may need replaced.
Good luck with the testing :thumb: hope this helps
Your MAP sensor will be on your logic module, which is located behind your passenger kickpanel, on the right side of the car, under the dash.
I would verify timing is spot on, and be sure to get your timing belt tensioned right. While running at idle, the belt should ride in the center of the camshaft sprocket. Running to the inside is loose, to the outside is tight. Running too tight can cause a snapped camshaft and camshaft journal gouging, loose can cause timing jumps, etc.
So recheck timing first, and time your distributor (with the Collant Temp Sensor unplugged while warm) to 12* BTDC.
You will also have to check fuel pressure while driving, for this bring a buddy. With the fuel pressure gauge taped to the windshield, go for a ride, and see what pressures you get. IIRC the Lancer does not have a vaccum/boost gauge, so this would ba a good time to get a "test gauge" and tape alongside the FP gauge while driving, it is important to know the fuel pressure levels in relationship to engine vacuum/boost.
At idle (16-20 in-HG [inches of mercury, or vaccum]) fuel pressure should be between 43 and 46 PSI, 43 being a low reading. For every 2 inches of vacuum increase, your fuel pressure should increase 1 psi. So at "atmospheric pressure" which is 0 psi boost/vacuum, you should have 55 psi of fuel pressure or within a lb or two of pressure. For every lb of boost, your fuel pressure should increase 1 psi.
45 PSI Fuel Pressure at idle~20 in-HG of vacuum
20 divided by 2 = 10
at atmospheric pressure, the fuel pressure should be at 55 psi.
An easy test of this is to disconenct your vacuum line from your fuel pressure regulator. Note, engine speeds iwll increase as you are creating a vacuum leak, and car may run slightly rougher, as you are pushing more fuel through that "necessary" at idle.
Fuel Pressure should read~55 PSI.
Now with the vac gause and FP gauge taped to the windshield (and SAFELY conencted, cannot stess this enough, especially on a log car. Gas will leak right onto the exhaust manifold and turbo=kaboom) go for a ride. At 9 psi (stock boost limit during accelleration) you should have a fuel pressure reading of 64 PSI, or very close to it.
It should fall and hold to 7 psi under heavy accelleration, normal operation, and FP will be around 62. You catch what I am trying to say here.
If you have good fuel pressure at idle, with the vac line connected and disconnected, but low FP while driving, it is a safe bet that your pump is slowly dying, you have a restriction/clog in your fuel lines, or both. If it cannot hold steady pressure, more than liekly your fuel pressure regulator is going bad, and may need replaced.
Good luck with the testing :thumb: hope this helps
