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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Test the wires going from the HEP to the SMEC or swap in another SMEC.




U can use any SMEC 88-89 t1,t2,2.5 t1 (supposedly Tbi smec will run on 2 cylinders) just to see it run.
Also in reverse you can take the SMEC out of your car and try it another one just to test it.

Final option is to get DRB2 scanner and look at the hall effect pick up output. or whatever checks u can do with it (I've never used one)

If you are in New England I have a couple lying around or you could bring yours over and plug it into my car and see if it starts..
You all have no idea how much I appreciate y'all sticking with me through this. Thank you! I am sure we'll figure this thing out.

I have traced the HEP wires all the way back to the SMEC harness and they have continuity. Also, I have another SMEC and I have tried it out only to get the same results. Now, I have NO IDEA if the second SMEC works, I bought it second hand and never put it in an otherwise running car.

Aireskcar - That is an awesome gesture, thank you!!! However, I am all the way down in Houston.

-Tim
 

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You all have no idea how much I appreciate y'all sticking with me through this. Thank you! I am sure we'll figure this thing out.

I have traced the HEP wires all the way back to the SMEC harness and they have continuity. Also, I have another SMEC and I have tried it out only to get the same results. Now, I have NO IDEA if the second SMEC works, I bought it second hand and never put it in an otherwise running car.

Aireskcar - That is an awesome gesture, thank you!!! However, I am all the way down in Houston.

-Tim
If you want to ship it to me I can plug it in the car and test it like I did with this SBEC.

Or cover shipping I can send you one of my spares to test. I think I have 2 2.5 T1 SMEC'S and my 88 town a country 2.2 T1 SMEC that had a weak voltage regulator so the alternator would charge between 12.8 and 13v.
 

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Again, just to verify, there is constant battery voltage at the + coil when cranking?
If there is you do not have a HEP issue.
If you have battery voltage at the + coil with the ASD relay manually actuated and you touch/remove the jumper from a known good ground and there is no spark from the coil secondary wire to ground then the coil is faulty or the coil secondary wire is open or has excessive resistance.
 

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I am going to send you the "No Start/No Spark" diagnostics straight from the Chrysler Powertrain Diagnostics Manual.
The only difference is this is for 1990 2.2L/2.5L Turbo engines, if asked to check/trace wiring to the controller you need to use your 88 wiring instead of the 90 images shown in the diagnostics.
I will not have time to do it today but will get it to you by the end of the weekend.
 

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1)Is there a factory or aftermarket alarm system in this vehicle?
2)Is TPS closed throttle voltage below 2.50 volts?
3)Do all controller grounds have less than 5 ohms resistance to ground?

Here are the No Start/No Spark diagnostics from the Chrysler Powertrain Diagnostics Manual, remember, this is from a 1990 FSM with a SBEC, you will need to use the pinout for an 88 SMEC when you run these diagnostics.
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
NAJ and all.....
Thank you again for sticking with me. I am out of town now and won't be back until Friday night (gotta go do my job for a while to pay for all these HEPs....). I hope to get a chance to work on the diagnostics provided since Thursday this coming weekend.

I promise to keep everyone posted.

-Tim
 
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