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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short I pulled my block awhile back and sent it out to have some work done to it. Got it back and all hooked up and installed. Went to start it and got it to crank but nothing else. So I checked the new battery, was fine. Fuel pump was not actuating before turning key. I was able to short it from the diagnostic control to get my rail to pressurize momentarily. Came back a week or two later to test and try again, now I only get crank. Tried jumping the fuel pump again and this time nothing happened. Get a .1V, I know far from what I need, read at positive terminal at coil and at positive terminal at fuel pump. Getting codes 35,36, and 37 coming up. Any ideas if its the ASD making this not wanna start? Or are there other major wires I should check voltages or impedance on?
 

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What are we working on???

Code Descriptions.
35 - Cooling Fan Relay Circuit
36 - Wastegate Solenoid Circuit
37- Transmission Lockup Solenoid Circuit.
None of these will cause a no start but if you are having a power supply issue they may be related.

If this is a 2.2L/2.5L Start with this thread and post back with results or questions.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358231-no-start-no-spark-84-90-a.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In order of your other post.

1. no spark from coil wire, all plugs and wires are good.

2. distributor is turning, all new timing belt.

3. With the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL(dark blue/yellow) wire.
grounding used to trigger fuel pump to kick on. Now doing so nothing happens.
There is no power at coil on either post or at fuel pump connection on tank

Im not sure how to test the ASD to see if that is bad or what else would cause the coil and pump to have no power but the motor still attempt to crank
 

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Does anybody know if this is true and will work on his vehicle?

For troubleshooting purposes only (don’t drive like this!), Ed Hennessy wrote: “You can try feeding power to the fuel pump directly. Connect 12V+ from the battery through a fused link to the positive terminal of the coil. That will back feed 12V to the fuel pump through the ASD circuit. If the pump runs [it should be easy to hear], the ASD relay is bad. If not, the fuel pump or its wiring is probably the problem."
 

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If this is the 89 Daytona listed in your profile...

The ASD Relay has two power feeds, a ground side control and an output to the Fuel Pump, Injectors, + Coil and the HO2S.
a)Red Wire - Constant Battery Power From + Battery Through White Fusible Link.
b)Dark Blue Wire - Switched Ignition Voltage From SMEC 14 Pin Connector Cavity #3

Check that the two power feeds (12 volts) are present at the ASD Relay connector with the key on.
1)If not post back with which is missing.
2)If both are present manually actuate the ASD Relay again and check for power (12 volts) on the DG/BK output wire.
3)If power is present you have an open in the ASD Relay output circuit.
4)If power is not present replace the ASD Relay. (Assuming the ground control circuit has no issues)

FYI...
Manually actuating the ASD Relay will set a Code 42 in memory, this is not a problem code.
 

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Does anybody know if this is true and will work on his vehicle?

For troubleshooting purposes only (don’t drive like this!), Ed Hennessy wrote: “You can try feeding power to the fuel pump directly. Connect 12V+ from the battery through a fused link to the positive terminal of the coil. That will back feed 12V to the fuel pump through the ASD circuit. If the pump runs [it should be easy to hear], the ASD relay is bad. If not, the fuel pump or its wiring is probably the problem."
Never tried it but to check the power feeds and manually actuate the ASD Relay on any car 1990 and older only takes 5 minutes.

In 91 they removed the DB/YL wire from the Diagnostic connector so you cannot manually actuate the ASD that way but checking the power feeds is still the same, turn on the key and use a test lamp or DVOM.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yes this is in regards to my 89 forgot to mention that. But key on I have 12V power at both red and DB wires at ASD connector. Cannot seem to manually actuate ASD though
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When grounding DB/YL wire on diagnostic the ASD relay just clicks? I tried another relay I had laying around and it did the same thing
 

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Yes this is in regards to my 89 forgot to mention that. But key on I have 12V power at both red and DB wires at ASD connector. Cannot seem to manually actuate ASD though. When grounding DB/YL wire on diagnostic the ASD relay just clicks? I tried another relay I had laying around and it did the same thing
 

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If you have power on both the Red and Blue Wires manually actuate the ASD Relay and check for power on the DG/BK output wire.

If power is present the issue is in the ASD Output wiring to each component.
If no power is present then you need to verify the DB/YL ground side control is not open from the ASD Relay/Diagnostic Connector to the SMEC Cavity 58.
If no power was present on the ASD DG/BK output wire and the DB/YL ground control wire is not open, replace the ASD Relay.

MANUALLY ACTUATING THE ASD RELAY (Key On/Engine Off)
 

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Doubtful you have two faulty relays but anything is possible.

Without being there I would think you either do not have 12 volts at both power feeds or a poor connection with your jumper, either in the diag connector or your ground.
Try backprobing the DB/YL wire at the ASD Relay connector and connecting to ground from that point.
If the issue with the relay clicking is now resolved you will need to check the DB/YL ground control wire and terminal integrity.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Got that issue figured out. Turns out a poor connection at fuel pump plug was making for an incomplete system. Works now. Still not starting though. Shorting ASD i have 12V at fuel pump and blaster coil. Putting ASD back in and cranking no ignition but I can hear fuel running back into the tank.

So now rail isnt staying at static 55psi, it gets to 20psi during cranking then all runs back to the tank. Bad regulator?

Also not getting any spark tried starting for a second with a couple sprays of starter fluid in the throttle body and nothing. Hard to check if coil is working because nobody is around to help crank while i check for an arc from the coil wire.

Any suggestions?
 

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Run the No Start Diagnostics that I posted in post #2.

Disconnect the fuel pump until you determine if your issue is only spark related so you do not flood the engine and foul the plugs.

To check spark by yourself you will need to invest in an Adjustable Spark Tester.
http://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/ignition-tester/great-neck-adjustable-ignition-spark-tester/10257_0_0/

As far as the fuel pressure bleeding down...
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html
 
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