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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I'm just learning how to do vehicle repairs, and right now, I want to completely replace all of my cars vacuum lines. My major question is, What size hoses am I suppose to use? does it matter what the sizes are? Where do I use hard vacuum lines, and soft vacuum lines?

at one point a friend of mine broke a few on accident, and replaced them with whatever he had available =/

I have an 88 Lancer ES 2.5L (i know it's not turbo, so I hope it's ok that I post here =D )

Over time, almost all the lines have become hard and brittle. and many have broke or cracked. I reconnected a lot of them that weren't on there, but I want to replace all of them just so it's done and over with, and so I don't have to worry about any more breaking =)

Eventually I want to restore the entire vehicle as I learn more and more about what I'm doing. I bought the manual for my car so it helps a bit too.

Here's the vacuum diagram that is on the hood of my car.



I thank anyone and everyone for any help provided =D

Ben
 

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Hard line is no longer available but I did reuse the hard line on each end where it is connected to each component if it was still intact and secured the vacuum line to it with small black wire ties.
Leave enough hard line to connect (3-4")
The line is all different sizes 5/32, 7/32, 11/32 for emissions hoses etc, you will not know what you need until you start replacing.
You will also need tee's, elbows and vacuum caps to connect the lines, secure the lines together using black wire ties and use split wire loom on any that may rub thru.
Best to have another vehicle handy when you start this project since you will probably make several trips to the parts store.
Pep Boys has a wide variety of all that is needed.
I always keep extra of everything at home just in case.
It is a tedious,time consuming project so take your time and make the job right.
I have seen some that look like a mass of spaghetti when done and I do not think you want that.





 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well I think the main issue i will probably have is that some of the lines were replaced with whatever was available at the time when my friend busted a few =/ that, and One of the splitter lines was lost. I replaced it with the closest size i could remember though. Do you think that a dodge dealership would have the exact measurements for the sizes of hose and adapters?
 

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None of those hard lines have been available thru Mopar for years.
The service manuals and Mopar parts catalogs do not list sizes for individual vacuum supply lines.
That is why I said it is a long, tedious process especially if someone was in there before you.
I bought my car new and the first time I had the valve cover off half the plastic lines broke and it took me 3 hours just to get the vacuum right for the 3 VNT solenoids.
Without a turbo yours should be much easier.
 

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you used to be able to get hardline at pep boys but there's better out there. It's polyurethane. It's the same size as stock so it fits right in the factory connectors and looks stock. But it never get's hard and brittle. It bends tighter before kinking and will last forever. Oh it also doesn't balloon out or suck shut under boost and vacuum like rubber will do. The best thing it can be bought right from a member of the boards. Unaclocker. NeonSquirt There's a little video of the line. I turned him onto it. He went out and bought a huge roll of it. I use it on all my cars and all my friends cars. Works great.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
alright, one other question. how will i know if it's right? lol (sorry to be so inquisitive, but I am really new at all this.)
 

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I will see if I can find a pic of all your underhood components that are vacuum operated and then just follow the vacuum diagram to route to each.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, I watched my check engine light this morning, and I got a code 23

Fault Code 23-TBI
Synopsis
Notes: For throttle body injected (N/A) models only

Description: Throttle body temperature sensor signal out of range
Power loss light: On
Limp-in mode: Throttle body temperature of 70^F is assumed

Possible Causes
Throttle body temperature sensor failure - The sensor should measure 9,120 ohms to 10,880 ohms at 77^F. This sensor is located on the side of the throttle body, below the throttle plate.

Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the sensor and the logic module (or SMEC). Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease.

Diagnostic Method
Trigger Parameters
- Sensor output less than 0.06V or greater than 4.98V
Results If Component Fails
Fault code 23 is stored, the power loss light is turned on, and the logic module will enter limp-in mode, assuming a throttle body temperature of 70^F.
would this invalid sensor information cause a rough idle? One issue with this car i'm having is a rough idle. I thought i'd have the timing checked (just to be sure =P) and since a lot of vacuum hoses are cracked/broke i wanted to replace them all.

She idles somewhat normal (but a little rough) in park with a/c off. If i turn on a/c she idles a little lower, but it evens out (still a little rough). If i move to neutral it's the same as park. but if i go into drive/reverse, her idle drops quite a bit and it shakes much worse. It's not super rough, but it sure makes my car's antenna vibrate all over lol.Even if i have the a/c off and i'm in drive, she idles rough.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will see if I can find a pic of all your underhood components that are vacuum operated and then just follow the vacuum diagram to route to each.
well I'm fairly certain I can figure it out via the diagram on the hood, but my main issue, is how will i know that the vacuum pressure is right? do hose sizes affect the pressure??
 

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No the diameter of the vacuum lines do not affect line pressure.
There are lines that range from 5/32" to 3/8" or 11/32" for the brake booster/evap canister/pcv, etc.
As long as engine vacuum is strong(16-20"HG) and the lines are tight and secure you will be good.
Just do not use thin walled washer line, be sure the smaller diameter line(5/32",7/32") are a thick vacuum line.
Evap canister large hoses you want fuel line and emissions hose that is resistant to oil for the PCV system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well Here's some images of my baby =D. she's in pretty rough shape i know. but I want to get her back to pristine condition, both cosmetically and mechanically. I haven't done a ton of stuff on my car yet, but I think it's a great project for me to learn how to repair my own vehicle and to know it inside and out.

Know any good places to get replacement fenders??? LOL :eek:












I get paid this Wednesday so I'll get the hoses and do the project then. Hopefully all goes well =D

Any idea on that code 23 though?
 

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Engine Bay looks really clean.
Do not know where to get replacement body parts. Open a thread in the Parts Wanted section, guys are always parting out cars.
Is the code 23 a hard fault(check engine light on?).
If not clear the code(battery disconnect) and then see if it comes back, it may be an intermittant issue. Faults will stay in the controllers memory for 50 key starts unless the battery is disconnected.(after battery disconnect you will have a code 12, that is normal)
Basically the Temp Sensor circuit is pretty simple.
The controller sends out 5 volts(5 volt reference) and looks to see how much voltage returns(signal return). The amount of voltage that returns corrosponds to a temperature that is in the controllers programming.
To test the circuit disconnect the TB Temp Sensor connector, with the key on/engine off use a digital voltmeter and probe the 2 terminals in the connector, you should read 5 volts, if you do the wiring and controller are good, replace the sensor.
If you are not reading 5 volts the problem is with the 5 volt reference or signal return line.
Before condemming the sensor be sure the connector terminals are not corroded, spread, pushed out.
This should help you out, it is from a Chrysler Training Manual.





 

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Code 23- If you have access to a Multimeter (and know how to use it, or have someone handy who does) read the resistance of the sensor itself by unplugging it and going post to post- if it's within range, then get the wiring diagram and read continuity from the sensor to the SMEC plug. Odds are the connector is a bit corroded. The good news is, that's an easy fix...get some electrical component cleaning spray, I use CRC's QD Electronic Cleaner (should have it at your local parts store), spray out the connector and the receptacle, let it dry for a few minutes, then lube the pins with dielectric grease and reconnect the harness to it. With the age of our vehicles approaching "Classic" status, it's a good idea to do this on all of your engine bay connectors...call it cheap insurance! NAJ, can you scan in the W/Diag he needs?
 

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As others have said, vacuum lines are a tedius job, every car has different lengths and sizes...but when it comes down to it, here is what You need.

1 line from intake/vac block to FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
1 line from intake/vac block to MAP Sensor
1 line from intake/vac block to wastegate
1 line from intake/vac block to bov
1 line from intake/vac block to Brake Booster
1 line from intake/vac block to boost gauge

hope this helps:thumb:
 

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As others have said, vacuum lines are a tedius job, every car has different lengths and sizes...but when it comes down to it, here is what You need.

1 line from intake/vac block to FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)
1 line from intake/vac block to MAP Sensor
1 line from intake/vac block to wastegate
1 line from intake/vac block to bov
1 line from intake/vac block to Brake Booster
1 line from intake/vac block to boost gauge

hope this helps:thumb:
Look b4 giving advise
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Alright, well, Thursday I'm going to pick up some hoses and work on my vacuum lines. Thanks for the help guys, =D I'll let you know how it goes =P
 
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I don't know if this was mentioned, but I do not recommend silicone hosing despite how good it looks. Most of the ones that came on my car where getting too soft when heated up by the engine, then sucked shut and choked my engine up.
 
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I think I went with just really hard rubber lines, any problems with that by any chance?
 
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