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Hello all. Not sure how many may still be on this thread, but I figured I might post anyways. I started a thread about repairing the PCB for the gauges to start off, but there will be much more to come. In short, I have always wanted a Rampage since I was a small child. Just never found the right one until recently. Has hardly any rust, but the head threw a roller rocker somehow (probably related to the dust cap being left on the radiator the PO installed), has an extensive amount of electrical repair and other misc things. I'm going to "butcher" the little gal though. Hopefully it doesn't make anyone cringe. But in doing so, I have parts that will be available. I have a topper that's in rough shape, but made for it. I'll also be removing the whole front end forward of the quarter panels. I will try to post pictures soon, but I've already pulled the motor, cooling system, suspension and all of the interior.
 

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Thank you bigbarneycars. Sorry, this forum doesn't work like the others I am used to. I have a bit of a curve ahead of me. I assumed that updating my garage added it under my name. I have an '83. I'm not too concerned with many hard to find parts, but if you guys need something, i'll be keeping everything I don't need or use. I can fabricate, replicate and make just about anything. Plastics, acrylics, polycarbonates, aluminum, steel, carbon fiber, fiberglass, glass, resin and more that I can't think of I am sure. I honestly love the little trucklets but I don't like the old "firebird" looking front end. I need to try to render a cad of the trucklet so I can better illustrate what I plan to do and show what's in my head.
 

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I'll be sure to do that when I can. I already have a small issue that's bothering me with one of the fenders. Someone swapped the driver's front fender with another and there is a gap. The replacement one is more rounded whereas the original had an angle to it.
 

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Oh, I didn't exact say though... I'm going to build a whole new front end for it in due time. I've drafted a couple concepts, but I am still undecided. Regardless, it will have four headlights and retrofitted projectors, custom made turn signals and running lights. While I'm thinking about it, is there anything that is a part of the factory AC that anyone might want me to save? PO pulled the compressor and left the lines exposed for some time, but I don't really plan on putting AC back into it.
 

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I am all scamps and rampages , well I have a rampage , scamp GT is gone ....
ill keep an eye on this thread , FYI I am looking for REAR BUMPER
JONNY IN WV is not helping too much
so far three months and nothing
I'll be selling mine if you are still interested.

By the way, I'm not just trying to hawk items. I would just simply prefer pieces go to people who would actually value them and use them. I love the passion people can have for cars and I would hate to just throw anything away.
 

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Before I touched it...




The head. I've never seen a roller rocker get ejected like that. It beat the hell out of everything else inside. Oh, it's also got a 1986 2.5 from a Dodge Aries swapped into it.


The back end. It's in alright shape I suppose.
[IMGhttp://i1380.photobucket.com/albums/ah165/anchorconstitutioneagle/20170602_135119_zpstxvpjqio.jpg[/IMG]

Haven't looked all these up yet. But I will on a rainy day.


The VIN tag. I'm going to have to see about the proper course of action if I wanted to build my own dash and put this tag on it.


My buddy helping and learning as we get into the front end. Rebuilding the suspension and brakes. Already pulled the motor and all the interior minus the seats and electrical harness. Left that in so I can t/s some electrical issues.


Some side notes... I know I already said this, but is there anything desirable from the factory AC that I should keep in case anyone else wants them? I literally just want heat. Any other parts period that people want me to save?

Any parts that people would kill to have? I've read through this whole thread and door seals seem to be a big deal. Would you guys be interested in me making some from EPDM? It would take a while to make a proper first set, but I could definitely do it. Also, any other parts that are "unobtainable" like rear window trim clips?
 

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I'm not trying to get into a discussion on the VIN, but I know there is a way to go through the state highway patrol VIN and properly document a change in the tag. Just like when people build a custom vehicle and have to apply for a VIN from the state. I have done it once before, but I just wanted to throw it out there that it's on my list of things to do.

I am having an issue finding out what a couple wires are in the harness. The service manual doesn't seem to cover my gauges... I don't know if they aren't original or what but I'll take some photos of what I need help identified.

Also, has anyone swapped a small bench seat into one of these? I just love bench seats. I was thinking something like a divided one with an armrest out of a 77 or 78 olds. I'll probably have to build it myself, but if there is one out there that actually fits, that would save me some work.
 

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I'm having a bit of difficulty finding the right lower radiator hose. I have factory AC, the 2.5 from a 96 Dodge Aries in it and a new radiator. I tried looking at gates 21264, but the contour seems different. Would anyone mind looking at theirs to see if it is the same as mine is and recommending a hose? (I'll post photos here shortly)
 

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Hey Dave, I tried emailing you. Never heard back.

On another note, I sanded down some rust spots on the body and put primer on them, finished rebuilding the head, rebuilt the HVAC housing, removed the entire AC system, fixed the gauges not working, removed the fuel vapor system, replaced the wheel bearings and painted the knuckles, coated the exhaust manifold, painted the camshaft sprocket and some more that I can't recall. I will post pictures once I really make some headway on installing it all. I came across an odd problem when I was replacing the LCAs though... Apparently the Moog LCAs are oversized by .075" to compensate for worn knuckles? And some other manufacturers are as well. Made me pretty upset when I went to install them and they clearly werent going to fit without reaming out the knuckle. So I returned them and ordered Rare Parts ball joints that I'll be pressing into the original arms after I paint them as well.

Parts awaiting installation: water pump and timing belt, rear brake lines, front brake lines, caliper rebuild kits, brembo brakes, all new engine sensors, full engine gasket set, EGR block off plate, heater core, thermostat, ignition coil, spark plugs and wires, radiator hoses, brake pedal pad, cat delete pipe, Mopar performance head gasket, new head bolts, and I am sure I am missing some other things.

Kind of sad that I am doing all of this work on parts that I'll be stripping from the it here in a couple years.
 

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So the PO de idea to remove the nozzles and lines for the windshield washer fluid. I can tell where they are supposed to be, but have no idea what the original nozzles looked like. If someone could post some clear photos of them, I would greatly appreciate it.

Random hilarity: I have been scratching my head trying to figure out what these two brackets were on the frame. Well, I stumbled upon it in the fsm. It turns out the original dealership must have forgotten to remove them as they are the original tie down brackets used for transporting the vehicle.

Irt the seals, I'll probably make smaller test pieces first, like from the doors by the mirrors. But full sets may be a while before I can do them. I just made it back fromy a deployment but I am being redeployed.
 

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Code:
Wes, I want to thank you for your service helping to defend and protect our country. ����
I am honored to do so. Thank you for your support.

Dave, I apologize. My Lincoln Navigator fried it's fuse box, associated PCBs and another module. I had to replace components, test circuits, and rebuild parts of the cards. Meanwhile I am on leave, at home with my three children while my wife is taking a vacation. I had to balance a lot. I'm pulling it off tomorrow though and getting a shipping quote.
 

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I could use a huge favor. I'm a bit lost... Probably because I am having a hard time telling what all was swapped over from the Aries with the engine. My gauge cluster isn't exactly like any of the options listed in the service manual. But it has the pins for three connectors. Yet my harness only seems to have two. I just put the dash and everything back inside today, so I could have possibly missed a connector. I still tried pulling the HVAC controls and following the wires, yet nothing. My cluster has three parts, the tac/fuel, speedo/odo, voltage/oil/one other. I have the round indexed plug in the center and the long blue row on the right, but there is a row just behind the tach that I need to figure out. I'll try to post more pictures if need be. I bought the car with the dash already half disassembled, so it's not like I can recall if there ever was one.

The board:

 

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The first axle nut damn near killed me with frustration. I broke a 3/4 breaker bar and used 900ft/lbs of torque trying to remove it before I resorted to drilling the edges and then chiseling it open. Without damaging the threads on the axle. :)



Then stripped and painted the knuckles. I like pretty, non-oxidizing parts.

 

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Wes, I got a chance to look at the picture. It's definitely not an L-body cluster, but I'm not sure what it is. I only have 83 & 89 FSM's. I'll look through them to see if it matches anything, but it could be another year, and something not shown in my manuals...
I appreciate you taking the time to look. I haven't been able to figure it out either, but many of the wires are similar to the fsm as are the connections to some extent, making me believe it's athe least closely related. I just wish I knew what I'm losing from that connector. I may have to map the board :'( then build my own plug and run wires.

I'm surprised anyone else is awake this late. I'm just finishing my last bit of paint for the last parts to go on tomorrow. She should be driving tomorrow evening (relative to me not sleeping yet) or Friday.
 

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Wes, I think your gauge cluster is for a later L body, like an 88 or 89 Omni/Horizon. Here is a picture of the 90 cluster back. If you notice, the contour of the board, the light locations, and the space for the tach and speedo match up with yours. I can't find an image for the SMEC era L body boards, but I strongly suspect that's what you have.



*Note: Image grabbed off this forum

After searching a combination of the years and models, 89 horizon gauges showed a couple identical to my cluster. I wouldn't mind swapping to a different cluster if it meant being able to see what's important. I saw an oldschool digital one someone swapped that I would love to figure out.

Random issue... my radio blinks after reinstalling the dash. Anyone able to speculate as to why? The fsm doesn't cover that under troubleshooting.

I've got the engine bay all put back together! I hate that I can't run the car until the rtv for the valve cover gasket cures though... -__-

Most of these are before I washed the grime out of the engine bay, reconnected some final thing and touched up final details as well.



Pcv breather, egr block off plate and other miscellaneous things.



Pain in the butt pre heater pipe... Pain to get on, pain tof stretch without tearing, and a pain to fit around everything else without crushing it. Also mounted the coil up on the fender with foam wrapped around it to dampen vibration.

 

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Okay, so it's running. And quite well except I feel like the engine is getting excessively hot. All the hoses are new, new water pump, new radiator fan, newer radiator (installed by PO), new thermostat, the works. I'm not quite sure what's causing it to heat up so much. The only thing I can think of is if the radiator is clogged, don't think it's likely though. OR the exhaust is backed up? The temp gauge appears to be working, and it stays at a reasonable reading (for the rather short trips around the block I've made) but it all gets very hot. The intake manifold, the valve cover, all of it could burn me if I touched it. I'd rather not damage another head after I just rebuild everything except the block. Do the 2.2's and 2.5's just get that hot? I feel like something is wrong.

Also, the "Power Loss" is illuminated for whatever reason. Kind of hard to troubleshoot when I don't have the right manual for whatever electrical.

I'm frustrated.

UPDATE: I had some air in the pump I believe that was preventing it from pushing the coolant properly. It seems "better" but the top end still gets pretty hot. Should I be able to see engine oil steam if I open the oil cap after only running it for five to ten minutes? I'm still not certain that there isn't an exhaust restriction.

"Power Loss" is still present.

Sometimes when I turn the key to crank it just sounds like something is spinning, like the sound a cordless drill makes but faster. Other times it cranks properly and then shortly goes back to that sound. If I barely push the gas though, it tends to start right up. Starter? Solenoid for the starter?

Upon starting it bounces the idle a bit before leveling out. I would check the IAC, but it didn't used to do that before the rebuild.

Lastly, there was this crazy contraption of failed engineering on the vacuum lines. About four "T" fittings and six different sizes of lines, from 5/8 to 1/4. Long story short, It's hard to tell what lines from the throttle body and intake manifold go where. It's 2.5L from an 86 Dodge aries (so was written on the engine itself) but I don't know how much I believe the year. The O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold is from an 88 or 89. And a few other miscellaneous parts are different. I need to try and find a vacuum diagram for the engine.

ANY and ALL help would be appreciated.
 

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So I did some reading, on here actually, I found the fault codes and the website that explains them at: Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

Turns out I forgot to put the MAP sensor back in... *FACE PALM* But I am still getting a code 12 and 13. I'm not sure which vacuum connection the MAP is supposed to be attached to, but that may be causing my code 13. The code 12 may just be since I have had the battery disconnected so many times.

I wish my FSM showed 2.2's that had TBI top ends. That would help since the 2.5 is similar enough.

UPDATE: error code 31 came back. I removed the fuel vapor system and egr so I need to devise how to fool the ECU. I know it reads a 12V open and 0V closed. Should be able to make it think that it's working properly. I'll update as I go, but it may have to wait until my return stateside.
 
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