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I'm not knowledgable with writing on turbododge and can barely find my way around it, I'm sorry if I am incorrectly jumping into a discussion...I am at wits end with trying to find the problem with my 84 rampage and it's driving me bonkers..it's the naturally aspirated version and when started it runs very well with minimal problems except maybe a quick stumbling, stall twice as it is warming up( about 1 second ). After warming up it runs with a sound like a valve ( light misfire )stumble which happens every 3 to 5 seconds and 50% of the time sounds like it has as if it were dieseling or rod knocking, if I shut it off and restart it it will most times runs absolutely perfect for up to 10 minutes then start to slowly misfire lightly again and seems to get very hot to the touch on the carb and intake. When I shift from P to R to D (auto) it shifts Hard and accelerating from 0-30 it bogs a little and 30+ it scoots but runs rougher at idle on a short trip. I have tried things 1 at a time: pcv and eliminated small leaks, rebuilt old carb, purchased brand new carb, new vacuum lines, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, fuel filter, fluids, removed ac belt, checked ecu/esa for flaws in electrical board...last 2 things I can think of is egr and replacing ecu unit ..any thoughts would be helpful..great little backup vehicle but not if I can't drive it. Thanks
 

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When I get off work today I will head straight for the Hall effects store haha, so hopefully that will be replaced by tomorrow. Very cool you mentioned the shaft because I removed the distributor and noticed in that area it looked like a light arced area like a mini welding so I cleaned it up some.. Thanks gentlemen and will give progress report..got off work and Hall effect will come in tomorrow and its pouring rain.
 

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Replaced the Hall effect, very lightly sanded on shaft and inside rotor for an excellent contact between the two..I did notice that in the rotor the piece that contacts the shaft comes around the plastic shaft and under the 4 metal pieces, where it goes under the metal it can be touched and it no longer contacts there but when you let it go it slides back under making fair contact ( where the copper slides under the steel part ). With the ecu hooked up the engine misfires while running and makes a slight dieseling sound in the block and when I pull off and plug the vacuum line going to ecu the dieseling sound seems to mostly disappear, runs maybe a hair better, but still is misfiring in a spitting sputtering fashion. I was going to buy a timing light and see if this reputable mechanic that set it might be wrong but looking in the timing window bumping the car over never could see the mark and the chiton book doesn't show what it looks like..FYI ..my first dodge..been a back yard ford minor home mechanic in my growing up years and this is becoming frustrated, all the mechanics out here look at truck like it was made at Ripley's believe it or not and love it but they are all willing to take your money to not service it correctly, even dodge dealer thinks it to be cool but say they don't remember how to fix the probs, that leaves me..lol..and the help you give which is always appreciated and I thank you.
 

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Wish I wouldn't have been so long on response but a ton going on. I still couldn't find any timing mark but I did notice a groove about the size of a woodruff key when I bumped the engine close to dist. rotor lining up with #1 plug wire so I used it as the mark. When I see the timing mark which I'm lining up around 12* it bounces all over from 6* to about 18* as it has little pops and misfires out the exhaust. I couldn't get the nuts off of the egr on the intake side so I took the exhaust side bolts off the egr and slid a paint scraper in to seal it and it didn't do anything so I twisted the scraper sideways to leave a gap in it and still no difference so I'm guessing no leaks. The whole " no timing marks marked thing " makes me wonder how the last mechanic set the timing that I just paid for which dieseled all the way home. Scares me to think I might have to bring it to Dodge to see if they might remember a few tricks without making the cost of the vehicle skyrocket..thanks for the ideas given earlier and if I didn't like the little truck as I do it would be taking a cliff dive..lol
 

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If I can get these pics sent here can someone please tell me if this is a water jacket on the bottom of my intake and if that is a crack and could it affect the car overheating and/or anything else, found it last night checking egr intake line..thanks to all.
 

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Ouch, yeah, sounds like fun lol. So my problems after car warms up it seems to almost overheat, misfires some, and I figured there was heater core problems since the heater inside feels like it doesn't warm up..maybe this has been my prob..when I pulled off egr I started up the truck and the egr intake tube had no vacuum..sounds like another reason to take the intake off or maybe at this point take it to a mechanic for this part to get it done timely..too many 12hr work shifts.
 

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The radiator isn't dirty, but that sounds like a great idea. I'm working on that egr valve which I hoped was the problem and could partially be but I'm going to try and cut straight to the bigger job of fixing that water jacket first.. But may let a mechanic do it since the driveway for that long job doesn't sound appealing. Off I go to access the length of the job and if I will have the time..thanks bunches..do you know about how long it would take you so I could get an average and then add more time to it..thanks for help
 

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Thanks 83scamp, in the process of capping that egr system but will have to do it when I take the head off and get to the bottom of the intake but I'm having a problem finding out what they call that manifold water jacket to replace it before digging into that job. I have put in all different combo of words into the internets and can't tell what they are calling it and I have gone through the chilton book and it shows everything around it but I see nothing referring to it. I'm guessing this will be a couple day job in my driveway to remove, replace and reassemble it..might send it to mechanic if I can find the replacement parts..maybe
 

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This is wierd, the picture showed that crack plain as day, I got the intake off without taking off the head and there was absolutely no crack anywhere but I got to take some more pics. I think the lines running into the water jacket may be leaking a little but not bad. I took a pic of the egr tube running into the intake and of the valves.
 

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I had a few problems a few times getting the pics to the website too but our internets is so slow I think that was my main problem. I did 83scamp's idea and just removed mine to remove another possible problem in the future. To add to my list of frustrations with mine I figured I would replace the fuel pump which is an awful job and when I manually hand pumped it and put my finger over intake side it slowly had air leak through other side, I put new one on and when starting it I had gas shoot up through carb, engine lately has been revving way too high on start and dies once as idols down then runs ok after restart and as it idles down runs rough. If I shut it down again and restart it will run perfect for about 1-2 min. then misfires again out of exhaust ( light to medium puffing ) like the sound of a bad valve and if I keep it running it seems to overheat a little then on shutdown it sounds like timing is off again..haven't done the cam thing yet...but wondering now if doing timing right too..I wait for idle down, use #1 plug wire, plug ecu vac line and time to 12* with groove in flywheel that shows up at tdc?
 

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A little off subject but does anyone know if an 84 dodge rampage had a crankshaft sensor or any other sensor that would effect timing, still have erratic running, one time great, next time I start it have knocking sound. If I move the distributor clockwise the knocking sound goes to minimal but accelerates sluggish.
 

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Thanks 83scamp.. Had a few people telling me the sensor was there guess but I didn't see one anywhere even though it showed the part in every auto store online. If i seg the timing on the mark it sounds like a rod knock kind of sound, if I adjust the timing the knock sound disappears but is super sluggish on acceleration. I have replaced and set to spec everything that isn't internal engine parts and it still does the same thing. Starts and runs great, then rough the next start, when driving it acts like PVC leak, sluggish on takeoff then around 35 runs like a striped ape.. For a 4 banger that is.. The only things not replaced are block sensors and ecu.
 

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Wow, thanks williestargell, I am going to check that out tomorrow. Just finished up the head gasket today and that was a fun money spending time consuming journey...NOT!!! Lol..it does seem to run a little better though and doesn't overheat so far. I did hook up the break booster directly to the intake manifold vacuum so that idea of yours would probubly be affected even more.. Thanks again
 
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