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What is the difference between
2.2 Standard OR
Base Standard

1984 Rampage

Trim? Options? Interior?
Thanks
It depended on how the truck was ordered. Yes the 2.2 package got you a better interior, outside stripes and bigger wheels. But you could also down option the 2.2 package. You could stripe delete, you could ask for the 13" wheels, etc.

For the interior, generally speaking, the 2.2 package got you high back bucket seats. The center console, and usually a radio. Low back buckets were standard on the base model, and about 1/2 were radio delete.
 

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1984 Rampage 2.2 Automatic
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Thanks for the reply, I have the high back buckets, console, lower stripe, AC, automatic trans, and radio. Has nice topper painted same color.

This 84 is a one owner with 83k verified miles, 4 new tires, NO rust (had it up on rack to check), originally Kansas page, trade in at a Dodge dealer in nw Colorado. Advertised on Google!

Was in Columbia City last summer visiting wife's relatives, should have looked you up!
 

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Well, I finished the Scamp yesterday! Already put about 60 miles on it tooling around showing family and friends.

Here's a few pictures of the finished truck:













This has been a labor of love for the last year. Finished it two weeks shy of 1 year from the day I started taking it apart.:D
 

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Are you sure you have the timing light hooked up to the number one cylinder? With the engine running and the timing light flashing you should be able to see the timing mark clearly in the timing mark window on the bell housing.

If you haven't loosened up the distributor and changed the timing it could be that somebody set the timing so it is too retarded so when the timing light flashes the mark is outside the viewing window and can't be seen.

Does the Rampage have one of the Direct Connection Racing Computers on it? You are supposed to set the timing on those at 12 degrees while you have the the stock computer installed. Then you swap out the stock computer to the Racing Computer. Then the racing computer will add something like 8 more degrees to the timing. The additional 8 degrees would cause the timing mark to move out of the timing window where you can't see it.

Not on my Rampage but on my Lebaron you have to remove the vacuum hose from the computer and plug it or you won't be able to see the timing mark even with the timing light hooked up properly.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c15280215ca3
 

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Trying to check timing on 84 Rampage--
Cannot find anything on rusty flywheel.
Is it paint/or marked via groove or how do I clean up to find mark???
It is a groove, about 1/8in thick and spans the width of the flywheel
 

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1984 Rampage 2.2 Automatic
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15 Minutes to check timing prior to timing belt replacement---What are you guys smoking???

Took 4 hours to remove belts and plastic covers!!

Now how do you remove/replace timing belt that runs thru the AC mounting bracket??

Nothing said about this, Does AC and Alternator have to come off along with the aluminum bracket for them?

How about draining the coolant before removing the bracket as I loosened one of the bracket bolts and coolant began to run out!

The other bracket mount is a stud, how is this going to allow bracket to come off engine to allow belt to be removed/installed?

Even the ‘84 shop manual does not show a stud/nut and only 2 short bolts.

1984 Rampage--After 4 total days I am ready to snug up the old belt and reassemble then get rid of it!!------One owner, 84k verified no rust miles!
 

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"Checking" the timing belt or even resetting it only takes 15 minutes. Replacing it is a different story. You do have to remove the ac, alternator, and bracket. None of the bolts should be going into a coolant passage though. Are you sure you didn't remove one of the water pump bolts by mistake? The AC bracket should just have 5 bolts holding it to the block and head. I can do a belt on my (admittedly later-model) '90 in about 2 hours, and that's stopping to clean parts as I go.
 

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Thanks for the reply, one of the 4 bolts holding the AC/ALT bracket goes right into the water passage just above the 3 top bolts for the water pump,the other bolt is a stud with a nut.
While waiting on a revelation on how to get the timing belt off, I needed to change the leaking water pump, broke 2 of the 9 bolts were so tight I needed a breaker bar to get them out. Drilled and re-tapped them, that is how I finally figured out complete front disassembly of accessories and mounting bracket, verified the afore mentioned bolt that goes into the water passage!

After re-assembly back to trying to get more than 10 mpg from the new Weber carb---76 miles--1/2 tank of gas!! (I live at 9800 ft elevation).
 

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I posted a new thread in the Michigan section, but I wanted to post here for better exposure as well.

July 26th is the annual Mopars at the Red Barns car show at the Gilmore Car Museum. My goal is to have the largest gathering of L-body pickups in the Midwest. I'm hoping a lot of guys on here can make it.

See this thread: http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f198/f199/f206/708241-mopars-red-barns.html#post3330073 for details.:D
So no takers? The show is in two weeks. I'd love to get a big truck turnout, but I would take any big TD turnout. :D
 

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Just discovered this thread/site. Here's my 1983 Scamp GT that's been in the family since... well, 83. Gets a lot of looks, but since it's my band vehicle and daily commuter, any offers to buy have been politely declined. Somehow found the bed cap from a non-working rampage an hour away, which was the clincher towards buying the car.

Here's a few pics.
The last one is how we roll to shows: two people up front, one in the back with two 4x12s, one head, one combo, one whole drumset with 2 floor toms, ATA pedalboard etc.... she is a beast at hauling absurd amounts of musical equipment and people.

If only my parking brake weren't so loose that I could drift out of a parking lot...
 

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Just discovered this thread/site. Here's my 1983 Scamp GT that's been in the family since... well, 83. Gets a lot of looks, but since it's my band vehicle and daily commuter, any offers to buy have been politely declined. Somehow found the bed cap from a non-working rampage an hour away, which was the clincher towards buying the car.

Here's a few pics.
The last one is how we roll to shows: two people up front, one in the back with two 4x12s, one head, one combo, one whole drumset with 2 floor toms, ATA pedalboard etc.... she is a beast at hauling absurd amounts of musical equipment and people.

If only my parking brake weren't so loose that I could drift out of a parking lot...
Welcome to the forum! Really awesome to see another Scamp out there. Mine had the exact same cap on it when I bought it. Served it's purpose, but I hated the thing... It was so square & boxy, I didn't like that it didn't flow with the body. Eventually went in the burn pile when we cleaned out my Grandparents barn...
 

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I'm not knowledgable with writing on turbododge and can barely find my way around it, I'm sorry if I am incorrectly jumping into a discussion...I am at wits end with trying to find the problem with my 84 rampage and it's driving me bonkers..it's the naturally aspirated version and when started it runs very well with minimal problems except maybe a quick stumbling, stall twice as it is warming up( about 1 second ). After warming up it runs with a sound like a valve ( light misfire )stumble which happens every 3 to 5 seconds and 50% of the time sounds like it has as if it were dieseling or rod knocking, if I shut it off and restart it it will most times runs absolutely perfect for up to 10 minutes then start to slowly misfire lightly again and seems to get very hot to the touch on the carb and intake. When I shift from P to R to D (auto) it shifts Hard and accelerating from 0-30 it bogs a little and 30+ it scoots but runs rougher at idle on a short trip. I have tried things 1 at a time: pcv and eliminated small leaks, rebuilt old carb, purchased brand new carb, new vacuum lines, new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, fuel filter, fluids, removed ac belt, checked ecu/esa for flaws in electrical board...last 2 things I can think of is egr and replacing ecu unit ..any thoughts would be helpful..great little backup vehicle but not if I can't drive it. Thanks
 

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You can check easily if it is your ECU by simply pulling the vacuum line, you car should run on base timing. If doing this does make your truck run smoothly, then that's your problem. When you unplug it, your truck will run kind of boggish, but shouldn't die. Based on what you are saying though you have checked alot of things, but I didn't see the pick up coil on your list of replaced items. This would be a place I would definitely check.
 
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