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90 Daytona Shelby, 96 Jeep XJ, '13 300C
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There have been a couple of people that have swapped 87-89 Daytona/LeBaron digital clusters into L bodies. You have to do some custom mounting, but those clusters just get the same basic inputs as the analog cluster. If you find one, get the pigtails with it and enough extra wire so you can splice it into your harness. The wiring schematics are all online (and in this forum).
 

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Okay, so it's running. And quite well except I feel like the engine is getting excessively hot. All the hoses are new, new water pump, new radiator fan, newer radiator (installed by PO), new thermostat, the works. I'm not quite sure what's causing it to heat up so much. The only thing I can think of is if the radiator is clogged, don't think it's likely though. OR the exhaust is backed up? The temp gauge appears to be working, and it stays at a reasonable reading (for the rather short trips around the block I've made) but it all gets very hot. The intake manifold, the valve cover, all of it could burn me if I touched it. I'd rather not damage another head after I just rebuild everything except the block. Do the 2.2's and 2.5's just get that hot? I feel like something is wrong.

Also, the "Power Loss" is illuminated for whatever reason. Kind of hard to troubleshoot when I don't have the right manual for whatever electrical.

I'm frustrated.

UPDATE: I had some air in the pump I believe that was preventing it from pushing the coolant properly. It seems "better" but the top end still gets pretty hot. Should I be able to see engine oil steam if I open the oil cap after only running it for five to ten minutes? I'm still not certain that there isn't an exhaust restriction.

"Power Loss" is still present.

Sometimes when I turn the key to crank it just sounds like something is spinning, like the sound a cordless drill makes but faster. Other times it cranks properly and then shortly goes back to that sound. If I barely push the gas though, it tends to start right up. Starter? Solenoid for the starter?

Upon starting it bounces the idle a bit before leveling out. I would check the IAC, but it didn't used to do that before the rebuild.

Lastly, there was this crazy contraption of failed engineering on the vacuum lines. About four "T" fittings and six different sizes of lines, from 5/8 to 1/4. Long story short, It's hard to tell what lines from the throttle body and intake manifold go where. It's 2.5L from an 86 Dodge aries (so was written on the engine itself) but I don't know how much I believe the year. The O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold is from an 88 or 89. And a few other miscellaneous parts are different. I need to try and find a vacuum diagram for the engine.

ANY and ALL help would be appreciated.
 

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So I did some reading, on here actually, I found the fault codes and the website that explains them at: Fault Codes - Mini-Mopar Resources

Turns out I forgot to put the MAP sensor back in... *FACE PALM* But I am still getting a code 12 and 13. I'm not sure which vacuum connection the MAP is supposed to be attached to, but that may be causing my code 13. The code 12 may just be since I have had the battery disconnected so many times.

I wish my FSM showed 2.2's that had TBI top ends. That would help since the 2.5 is similar enough.

UPDATE: error code 31 came back. I removed the fuel vapor system and egr so I need to devise how to fool the ECU. I know it reads a 12V open and 0V closed. Should be able to make it think that it's working properly. I'll update as I go, but it may have to wait until my return stateside.
 

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Wes, I wish you a safe tour of duty. Let us know when you get back. You did a LOT of work in short order while juggling family and other things.

I can't help you with the engine you have. My Rampage has the stock 2.2L non-common block, but with a lot of mods to it. I couldn't help noticing in one of your pictures that the windshield wiper arms were all apart. Good news is that the nylon bushings are readily available to fix that. I had issues with my wipers working intermittently, and learned that the ground wire for the motor was faulty. Just run a wire strap or just a decent wire from the motor to a solid ground and that should take care of the wipers.
 

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Wildwest, yes I have already replaced, greased and fixed the wipers. :) Kind of important here in Washington. Thank you though. I'll list all the work I've done so far:

1983 dodge rampage with a 1986 dodge aries 2.5 and mystery electrical harness(es)

Rebuilt head
Mopar performance head gasket
All new top end gaskets and seals
Thermostat
Thermostat housing
Water pump
Radiator and push fan
Every coolant line
Vapor canister delete
EGR delete with block off plates
A/C delete and housing changes
Preheater hose
Every vacuum line
Every line/hose clamp
Every brake hose
Rebuilt calipers
Rotors and pads
Wheel bearings
LCA bushings
Ball joints
Rebuilt HVAC housing
All new WW lines and nozzles
New fuses and fuse panel relays
Reconditioned gauges PCBS
Amber gauge led bulbs
All amber interior bulbs
Some spot rust restoration
Coolant flush
Brake bleed
Oil and filter
Air filter
Ignition cylinder
Door lock cylinders
Door lock alignment
Driver window bushing and alignment

Changes to come in the far future:
RWD conversion
Beefy subframe
4BT Cummins Diesel swap
Fab bench seat
Chop roof ~4"
Custom built front end (grille, headlights, turn signals etc)
Gas tank expansion
Front and rear concealed winch

Points of interest:
Upon my return stateside I'll be acquiring a 3D printer. I have one in-tact rear window trim clip. I'll replicate them and offer them to anyone interested. As well as any other hard to come by trim pieces like the door window slide bushings.
I'll also be working with EPDMs to remake our window and door seals.
 

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Random, but I had to double gasket the thermostat housing and sandwich the thermostat between the two.I just couldn't get it to seal otherwise.

I connected 12v to the washer pump and verified it works but my switch isn't actuating the pump for some reason. I need to open up the steering column and do some electrical troubleshooting.

Radiator fan doesn't supply power via the connector so I have an ignition wire switched from a fuse tap and ran to it currently until I can troubleshoot further. Also allows me to turn it off if I just need the ignition on and the fan off.

Does anyone else hate the valve cover gasket design? I hate the four piece gasket and RTV combination. I may make a one piece one so I can open the head on demand.
 

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Before you start making a lot of custom parts for the Rampage, you ought to check first and see if someone else hasn't already done one that you want to replicate. Here are a few examples:

OMNI-Potent Parts, LLC Product Detail

Welcome to Poly Bushings.com

4th cylinder cooling adapter plate

https://www.am-autoparts.com/products/window-regulator/AM-598371334.html?m=92&y=1984

https://www.shapeways.com/product/ASQTS34GG/l-body-2-door-window-reg-pack?optionId=60569495

Turbo Dodge Parts

Rampage-Scamp Rear Window Trim

The door seals would be a good to replicate as nobody that I know of has done it yet, and there is a real need for this part.

There are prqobably more than what I listed here. If anyone else would like to add some helpful links for the Rampage/Scamp, please do so.
 

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INSATANSSEAT, thank you much.

Wildwest, I appreciate the links. I wasn't able to find those parts. I simply assumed they weren't available. That means I can focus on the EPDMs.

I'm also not redeploying anymore. It's good but bad news. Oh well.

Update: All codes are now gone. Radio stopped blinking... No idea what changed with the radio.

To do list:
Cat delete, resonator and single chamber exhaust one-in, two out
Fix windshield washer fluid electrical
Strip passenger window tint
Fix driver door lock
Recondition passenger window slide
 

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Update: Codes... -__- 12 randomly comes and goes. I'm not sure why. But I intend on replacing the battery terminal clamps and cables. The originals are exactly that... original. But 24 intermittently shows up as well. TPS apparently. I plan on checking it with a DMM this weekend. 31 still comes and goes, expectedly, since the fuel vapor canister is removed. Sorry there isn't anything exciting really.

However, I've had to adjust the "kickdown cable"? If I pushed the gas pedal all the way down, it would pull the shifter into neutral. I only had about 60% of the travel I could use. I'm at about 85% after messing with the adjuster, but it's still not 100%. I'm rather confused on its purpose even after years of spannering. It only connects from the throttle body linkage to the transmission shift linkage and only pulls after a certain point; at which point it pulls the shifter forward only. So it's not like it should give the trans any indication of engine speed, telling it when to shift. Perhaps its purpose is to limit how high to push the engine RPMs when you have it in 1, 2, or 3?
 

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That cable... I don't really get its purpose. Unless it's sole purpose is a rev limiter for being in 1 or 2 before D. I disconnected it and it doesn't affect shift points or anything. But I can't get wot unless it's disconnected. It doesn't make any sense.
 

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That cable... I don't really get its purpose. Unless it's sole purpose is a rev limiter for being in 1 or 2 before D. I disconnected it and it doesn't affect shift points or anything. But I can't get wot unless it's disconnected. It doesn't make any sense.
The kickdown shaft rotates inside the selector shaft. They are know to rust over time & stick together causing the issue you are having. The purpose of the kickdown linkage is to tell the trans when you are at wide open throttle so it hold the shifts longer, and will downshift when you nail it.

Pull the arm off the kickdown shaft and spray some PB blaster, or your favorite rust buster( NOT WD40) on it and let it work a while. If it doesn't free up, you only choice is a trans disassembly...
 

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Sorry it's been a little while. I was admitted to the hospital for a kidney infection...

Anyways, I finally had my rear lights working only to troubleshoot about four different issues with them. The brake light on the right side was always on, even key out. The hazards did not work in the rear. Pushing the brake pedal did nothing to the rear lights. Furthermore, barely moving the turn signal cam changed the symptoms drastically. To figure out what was going on, I mapped the different signal flows and made a table showing which lights were illuminated or not and which ones were not how they should be. Made transparent sheets to lay over the wiring diagram and started drawing the troublesome circuits until I found points where they intersected. Narrowed it down to a blown wire that fed from the hazard supply to the turn signal cam, a brake switch that was just tucked up in the dash, broken blade springs behind the turn signal cam and my left bulb was bad (the glass rotated independent of the base).

Questions and comments:

Does anyone else think it is odd that the brake light switch is a constant 12v instead of an ignition 12v? I understand the necessity of haVing constant 12v hazards but not brake lights. And it is supposed to be that way because the supply bus on the fuse box is labeled and the other things in line with the brake lights are definitely supposed to be a constant 12v.

Also, I ordered a new turn signal cam a while back because I knew that the original had some wear on the edges that hold and return it. However, I can't seem to find the blade springs that keep the cam centered and assist in the return. Any input?

Has anyone replaced the rear shocks on these. I can't find a site that has an exact fit for it unless I remove them and take measurements.

Anyone have experience with getting the glass cut on these for a roof chop, or had your own glass shaped and tempered for a roof chop? I may have to make my own moulds and send them off to a temperer. I have some road rash all over the windshield from over the years, a chip on the back edge of my driver door glass and some white fogging at the windshield corners.

Photos:

You can see where I had to disconnect the hazard feed on the cam because the wire was shot. I also cleaned up the terminals.


Then broken blade springs. I tried remaking them, but I'm pretty sure they are ductile iron given their harness, low malleability, and higher spring rate. I was almost tempted to try making them out of a hard plastic. Hmm...


Mocked up a temporary brake switch bracket, mostly just to get my angles and distances. I'll make a more proper one next weekend probably. I have it mounted on the steering column support frame currently.


I found out that my cluster is in fact ~89 omni. But that third connection is for some sort of circuit board. Contacted an eBay seller for a photo of the back. I'm trying to order it currently.


Lastly, my fender gap frustration. There are more fitment issues that just the corner, but that's the most apparent.
 

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A couple things Wes. when you depress the brake peddle the plunger in the brake switch moves out and that completes the ground and with the always hot power wire the ground is completed and your Brake lights go on. As for the mis-fit drivers fender? 83 Scamp and I touched on the early on in your thread. You have a replacement fender from a vehicle that was produced either before or after the 21st of January 1983 hung on a Trucklet the was produced before or after that date. You need to have your local dealer run your vin thru' their computer and find out exactly when your Trucklet was produced? Before or after that January date. Then you can go hunting an '83 fender on from an '83 Daytona or Rampage/Scamp that was produced on the same side of that date your trucklet was. They're out there, you just have to find the right one. G L with the hunt, Jer
 

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Bigbarneycars, yes, I understand how the brake light worked. I just never would have thought it was a constant 12v instead of an ignition 12v.

I plan on having the dealer run my vin. I just thought someone requested a picture a page or two back. I'll post the manufacture date once I get it. I've come across a couple fenders like the one on there now, unfortunately none like the one I need.
 

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This is good info.

Very confusing that the trans slips into neutral when the accelerator is floored !!!

Thanks
Randy


The kickdown shaft rotates inside the selector shaft. They are know to rust over time & stick together causing the issue you are having. The purpose of the kickdown linkage is to tell the trans when you are at wide open throttle so it hold the shifts longer, and will downshift when you nail it.

Pull the arm off the kickdown shaft and spray some PB blaster, or your favorite rust buster( NOT WD40) on it and let it work a while. If it doesn't free up, you only choice is a trans disassembly...
 

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What luck! I was replacing rusted trim screws with new ones I ordered when under a panelists found my missing circuit board for the cluster.

Other than that I've just been plastic welding some cracked panels and trim pieces back together that the PO broke. I'll be running more electrical for my shift light, making a new bracket for the "ash tray light", and maybe starting on a new headliner soon.

Irt the headliner, I found some RV map and domestic lights I really want to add if I don't find anything I like better. But I want it to look like it is from the same era as the trucklet.

I don't suppose anyone has a spare glove box light or a replacement suggestion? I've not really measured and checked for something else that may work. I would much prefer the original.
 

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Wes, let me know when you start working on your headliner. That's near the top of my project list and I want something better for the interior lighting. Stock dome light sux IMO. The real challenge is that there is very little clearance between the headliner and the top of the cab. I really want to install a dome light close to the windshield that has map lights and sunglass holder. The assembly is about 3" deep though. I also want to put a separate LED dome light behind the seats to better illuminate the storage area there.

My glove box does not have any light installed and I don't think they put one in there from the factory for our trucklets. Gotta have that ashtray light though. There are several 12V LED lighting options that could be easily installed. Would just need a plunger switch installed to make it work right.
 

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Wes, let me know when you start working on your headliner. That's near the top of my project list and I want something better for the interior lighting. Stock dome light sux IMO. The real challenge is that there is very little clearance between the headliner and the top of the cab. I really want to install a dome light close to the windshield that has map lights and sunglass holder. The assembly is about 3" deep though. I also want to put a separate LED dome light behind the seats to better illuminate the storage area there.

My glove box does not have any light installed and I don't think they put one in there from the factory for our trucklets. Gotta have that ashtray light though. There are several 12V LED lighting options that could be easily installed. Would just need a plunger switch installed to make it work right.
Check out my Scamp build thread to see what I did. I agree, the stock interior light sucks! I ended up using an overhead light from a Dodge Caliber, and made a mini console using pink insulating foam. Works well, and lights up the interior really nice.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f279/479913-1983-plymouth-scamp-5.html#post3180970
 

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Wow! Don't know what this guy is smoking, but I need some...

1984 Dodge Rampage | eBay

With all the hacks I see in the pictures, I wouldn't give this guy 1/4 of what he's asking...

I love his comment about less than 3600 made... What??? If it was a Scamp, yes, but Rampage? They made over 40K of them....
 
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