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What did you use on the interior parts for the 'rough" look? Bedliner paint?
Whatever it is, it's exactly what I'll do to mine now!!!
(if it doesn't weigh too much(lol)
it's just wrinkle finish paint, over a dried primer. i think i used krylon to do it. if the parts are metal, put them in the oven on low heat (about 250) for 10 minutes. they'll wrinkle right up.:thumb:
 

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New in Victoria, BC with an 84 Rampage.

I think I bought about as rough as you would want to get. I figured out a few things that were confusing me today but there is a lot more to go. Nice to read through the last eleven pages!

Aaron
 

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OK, I'm going to ask a question here, and if needed, we can move it. Anybody here ever installed an overhead console in one of these trucks? If so, what did you use? As we all know the original interior light sucks, and mine is cracked. I'd like to put something brighter in there with a pair of map lights. I've been looking on ebay, and found a couple that were promising, but I figured I'd ask here instead of trying to reinvent the wheel. Unfortunately, most have some kind of info center in them, which we obviously can't use in our vehicle(unless somebody knows one that is self contained and only requires 12V). I'd like to find one that has an interior light, a pair of map lights, and maybe a small storage compartment for a pair of sunglasses.

Thanks
 

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I thought you fellow Rampage/Scamp owners might like to see video footage of my turbodiesel Rampage on a chassis dyno.

It's a 1.5L VW diesel. Stock HP is rated at 48. This one made 167HP at 4600 rpm, and 238 ft-lbs of torque at 2818 rpm.

Dodge Rampage 1.5L Diesel on Ranken Tech Dyno - YouTube
really cool. Does the engine use the A412 VW trans that bolts to the VW gas 1.6? That would make the tall 525 gear set easy for the 2.19 final in 5th
 

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Well, I have some questions for anyone who may be paying attention.

Does anyone else have a Ford 2.3 distributor? It took me a while to figure all of this out as this is my first 2.2 dodge and it came with the Ford dizzy and an HEI ignition - it turned out that the ignition problem was the ground for the hall effect sensor was never wired. As soon as I grounded it to the HEI module it fired right up again. The good news is that I should be able to open the plug gap up to .45! However, I am finding a narrowish range of timing adjustment because the vacuum advance hits the heater core inlet at one extremity and a lip on the cap at the other. It was running before but I am not convinced the timing was right and I have yet to throw my timing light on it (I am more concerned with the overcharging again). I would like a bit more timing adjustment though and it would be nice if the heater core inlet was out of the way ... which got me thinking about reverse flow cooling ... if I trip over an electric w/p ...

The car also started overcharging again. I have had the entire wiring harness apart and eliminated the computer plugs, carburetor solenoids, computer temp sensor, factory dizzy plug, etc. All I have left for the overcharge is that the key live (blue wire) is grounding somewhere and causing the overcharge by bypassing the regulator or it is internal to the alternator. I know the wiring under the hood is good. Has anyone heard of the ignition or interior wiring causing a ground on the keyed live? I suspect the former because I get continuity to ground on the blue wire when I turn the ignition off (maybe someone just wired the stereo poorly?) I think I will put a relay bypass to the field tomorrow and that should tell me if it is the alternator or not. It has also made me think about the key live to the HEI ignition (also the blue wire) - I haven't measured the voltage yet but if it is low ... well, that wouldn't help the spark any. I should mention that I found a 'spare' ignition in the car when I cleaned it out. Could be the regulator too but I just replaced it ... anyone know if they burn out really quickly or are they a bit more rugged than that? It's not like it's been running for hours since I started messing with it.

I would also like to know if anyone is using a lawnmower battery in Canada. Victoria is pretty mild and I think I could get away with it.

yeesh ... perhaps I should have just driven it the way it was with all the accessories on, light on the skinny pedal, and fed it the odd battery ... :banghead

Questions, comments, dirty jokes?
 

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1983 Dodge Rampage
Electrical Problem?

Hello,

My name is Duane Kahler and I live right around the corner from your shop on Gloria Lane. I was driving along about a month ago and all of the electronics shut off in my car except the right rear turn signal and the seat belt indicator. The car then drove for about another day then died while I was driving. I replaced the alternator, ballast resistor, new battery, new battery cables... I don't think the battery is receiving a charge from the alternator still. I rebuild two stroke motors/mopeds for a hobby, but I cannot seem to figure this one out.
 

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Duane:

I just replaced a lot of the stock wiring on my car. That's a lot of change and not a lot of information to go on but I should think taking a good look at your fusible links and voltage regulator are in order.

two stroke motors and mopeds have reg/recs and 'always on' charging systems. With your car there are field windings to turn the charging system on and off and these are controlled by the voltage regulator.

Let me know if this is even helpful or if you think something else is involved.

Aaron
 

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I gave my topper to a local farmer (No charge 'cept for taking it from my ponderosa to his) He'z been using it for 'bout ten years now to keep the weather off his ducks:cool:Really! 5X100 4 wheel discs I assume? We all do some tweaks, where do you want to start with the modz? What's your skill level, what's your time frame and most importantly whats your budget?:brows: BTW, Welcome to the party. I callz 'um FLTs(funny little trucks) Some refer to 'um as Trucklets, and we all calls 'um fun and our leagues are growing as fast as we can make 'um cancer free:thumb:, Jer
 

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No offense Pal, but your 1st post implied you were just getting started with your 'Page. Theirs one guy on the planet that repops the original 2 piece cover with the cute little spoiler on the back that mother mopar supplied for these trucklets. He gets 'bout $850 for 'um and he really doesn't want to ship 'um for obvious reasons. You can usually pick one up at Chryslers at Carlisle in July at his swap spaces and he only brings 1 or 2 and they sell but not like hot cakes again for obvious reasons. YO 83 Scamp! You out there this morning? Pahleez help me out here. I don't think Hairy Kyle would believe me if I listed all the modz I've done to my little Scamper? Stay tuned Hairy, I'm asking ah friend from Indiana and unbiased observer who's been in my Pole Barn. Might take ah day or 2, He's ah busy man, Jer
 

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No offense Pal, but your 1st post implied you were just getting started with your 'Page. Theirs one guy on the planet that repops the original 2 piece cover with the cute little spoiler on the back that mother mopar supplied for these trucklets. He gets 'bout $850 for 'um and he really doesn't want to ship 'um for obvious reasons. You can usually pick one up at Chryslers at Carlisle in July at his swap spaces and he only brings 1 or 2 and they sell but not like hot cakes again for obvious reasons. YO 83 Scamp! You out there this morning? Pahleez help me out here. I don't think Hairy Kyle would believe me if I listed all the modz I've done to my little Scamper? Stay tuned Hairy, I'm asking ah friend from Indiana and unbiased observer who's been in my Pole Barn. Might take ah day or 2, He's ah busy man, Jer
Yep, I can attest to the fact that if it can be done, Jer has probably done it to his truck! It is a beautiful thing!

Kyle, you can see what I've done to my Scamp on my build thread. I didn't go nearly as wild as Jer did, but I'm very happy with the way mine is turning out. I plan to have mine on the road once the weather gets nice, which given our current weather, may be July!!! http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f279/479913-1983-plymouth-scamp.html

In the end, modify the truck to what you want. Some may cringe at cutting up a DC 'Page, but make the truck yours.:thumb:
 

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Its ok Jer, I was new to the whole L body scene and really dont know a whole lot about the Rampages. Just looking to see what some of you guys are doing. I have quite a bit of knowledge of the G-A-J body cars but not much of the L trucks. I plan on "restoring" this one my way and have like 10+ grand to spend when I finish my 20K LeBaron TIII build. I just picked up this truck and its a totally rust free Northern Cali truck. It has been modified already with a TI harness and a few other things that the last owner did. It has presentable paint on it now and I want to just install my built up 2.5 and do the 5 lug big brake conversion for this summer and drive it. This next winter is when it comes apart and gets totally re-done. I want to start collecting parts throughout the summer to do the "resto". Any help finding NOS parts or things I could use would be great. Yes I will post pics of it when the 2.5 is in and ready to drive:D
 

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O.K. Kayle, great score on the Shelby 'Page BTW, 1 of 218:cool: Someday I'd like to park next to one of those and see the differences in the dash from the '83 and then try to figure out how 'Ole Shel's '84 front end came to fruition with only two headlites. Nobodys been able to answer that one for me in 30 years and unfortunatly 'Ole Shel' ain't talkin' anymore 'cuz if he was still talkin' I'd chase him down and ask him! My daily ride is an '02 300 M Special and it's forever soured me on ever owning another ride with ground effects and I had 'um for my Scamp too and sold 'um rather then install 'um. Farz' I'm concerned all GFX on cars are ah PITA and not worth the aesthetic value but that's just me, And I'm not slaming your ride, please believe me! I wanna drive my toys without having to tiptoe into every parking place and worry about stopping short every time to protect that low hangin' nose. Screw up one time and you're looking for a replacement nose and it just ain't worth it, TO ME ANYWAY! 'Nuff on that.... I'd suggest an '88, '89, or '90 Lebaron GTC for your 5X100 swap and stay with the 15" setup simply because theirs ah ton of 'um still around out there. Spindles, steering knuckles, calipers(for exchange)and take the rotors too so you can see how the parking brakes and cables are set up. The 16"s those years can set you up with different front shoes depending on which calipers mother put on your donor and thats another whole can-ah-worms! Your parking brake cables will even swap in without modifications and you can't get that Trucklet going fast enough to not stop with those calipers and discs on it all the way around unless you're going to do tricks that require ah parashute hangin' on your butt and then you're into roll cages and that's way too many more worms! Gotta go rub some aspercream on my hands, my pecker fingers are crampin' up. Oh YEAH, gimme ah couple days and I'll give you the #'s for your new KYB struts. if you bother with taking the struts...DON'T UNLESS YOU WANT TO TRY DRILLING 3 PERFECTLY SPACED MOUNTING HOLES IN YOUR STRUT TOWERS IN PLACE OF THE 2 THAT ARE THERE WAITING FOR THE 2 BOLT KYB's THAT FIT. THE STEERING KNUCKEL WHERE IT ATTACHES TO THE STRUT IS ALSO .060 WIDER THEN THE l-BODY AND THOSE l-BODY STRUTS WILL NOT FIT CORRECTLY AROUND YOUR NEW KNUCKELS! :thumb:Later,Jer
 
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