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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Brand new to the site....love it! Just curious about what you T3 guys (I have 2 of them) are running for oil. The manual says 10w30. Problem is the valvetrain rattles and lifters tick with 10w30, and I have beaten the rod bearings out in my '87 Shelby CSX with "thin" oil. A switch to Mobil 1 15w50 fixed this so I have run it in all 3 of my turbo dodges for years with great success. I don't know if it is worth the cost savings to even try anything else.
Oils have improved greatly in the past few years so I am wondering if any of you use conventional (less expensive) non synthetics? Just curious what your take on this may be?
 

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I'm runnin 10w30 synthetic and my motor runs great with that :thumb:
 

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Mobil 1 5w30 in my 87 GLHS. Live in Atlanta where it gets cool (not COLD) and HOT (not warm). Its my daily driver, some HWY and some stop and go. Valvetrain always looks clean when the valve cover is off. Gets changed every 3,000 miles for sure.
 

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I use Rotella diesel oil, It has more Zinc in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Zinc Oil Additive - Hot Rod Magazine


More than just your roller cam to worry about, Tell that to your cam journals, I shaft , pump gears ..:D
Yeah, I used Rotella in my flat tappet V8's since the late 90's or so, but with the EPA's new regulations they have reduced the ZDDP package in it in the last year or so.
Now I use Joe gibbs Hot rod oil. Lots of high pressure additives for cars with high spring pressures etc. and anti-rust/anti-corrsion additives for cars that get stored for long periods of time.
I also have tried Castrol Syntech 20w-50 "Specially formulated for classic cars".
In my cars with stock type spring pressures I have never had a problem, but I still add a bottle of ZDDPLUS at every oil change. Cheap insurance.
We had been Plasma Nitriding flat tappet cams for years at Winberg Crankshafts where I used to work and it really helped. Now most of the good manufacturers all do it to give the cams and cranks a hardened surface a few thousands deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It sounds like most of you are running 10w30 synthetics in your T3's with great results. Maybe I am just too picky & worried about the valvetrain beating its self to death. I would like to run lighter oil because of the associated pumping losses, but both of mine clatter with the "thinner oils". Is this just something they all do at some point?
 

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The TIII have their own sounds, One of mine has more noise than the other one but has new lifters & a higher oil pressure:eek:mg:
 

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I'm running Mobil-1 Synthetic 10w-40 because it was recommended by Neil.
I would like to run Amsoil but its hard to find it when you need it.

First time I've heard of using Rotella Diesel oil? Is it synthetic oil w/Zinc or regular oil w/Zinc?
Would love to hear from Jackson on this.
 

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They make it both ways, & while they have reduced the zinc it is still higher than regular brand oils. You can use ZDDPLUS for added protection in what your using now.
 

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My list:

Summer Turbo cars: Rotella Syn 5W40. Amsoil Filter. Own filter for turbo.
Winter Turbo cars: Mobil 1 0W40. Amsoil filter. Own filter for turbo.

NA Beater. Rotella 15W40 summer, 5W40 syn winter. WIX 5.0 filter.


Lucas ZDDP and walmart 5W30 for break in. Changing after first heat cycle, after 50, after 100, after 500, after 1000, after 2000, after 3000.
 

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It sounds like most of you are running 10w30 synthetics in your T3's with great results. Maybe I am just too picky & worried about the valvetrain beating its self to death. I would like to run lighter oil because of the associated pumping losses, but both of mine clatter with the "thinner oils". Is this just something they all do at some point?
lol, most of the people that put in their 2 cents don't even have t3 cars, at least according to their sigs, etc. So take that for what it's worth.

Interesting idea using rotella.
 
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