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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So my car has been running like a scalded dog and then decided to go into sloth mode. It was making about 14-15psi if I so much as got my foot near the gas. Now it wont get past 5 or 6psi full throttle. If you remove the waste gate solenoid, it works just fine, but you run into some serious over boost and fast. I have tried putting another solenoid on it but it has the same problem. I was wondering if this was something in the software or if there is something that I'm over looking. :bang head
 
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have you checked the pin on the flapper? they sometimes come off,or the rod could be stiff.i had that happen on my Z. do you have a boost controller on it? you should hit 12 psi if its stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Lemme clarify a bit. Running stock settings, I hit over boost if I don't keep my foot off it. Stock settings let me hit 14.5psi no problem at all, but being a Mitsu, hits 15. I have a story behind my Shelby Z that I will post later, but this is a brand new engine and turbo. Nothing bent, nothing out of place, idiots didn't know what they had kind of spanking new :) I did find a ground strap by the solenoid that wasn't hooked to jack. Buddy of mine that has ran one of these longer than me said that may be the issue. I can make an engine run till the cows come home, but when you get into alternate forms of power, I know how they work etc... but I'm at a loss because I have never had one personally.
 

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The engine controller has no idea if vacuum/pressure is available to the wastegate solenoid, it only knows if the solenoid position changes electrically when actuated.
First verify that the vacuum/pressure line to the wastegate solenoid is intact, not cracked/broken/restricted/misrouted and vacuum/pressure is actually reaching the solenoid.
If that is ok tee a vacuum/pressure gauge between the vacuum/pressure line and the wastegate, tape the gauge to the windshield and go for a ride and see that you actually have pressure(boost) reaching the wastegate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think that I have fixed it. She boosts proper now at 14.5psi and goes like a bat out of hell. I'll keep in mind the vacuum gauge idea when I'm trying to run down some other issues. I had replaced all of the lines when I first got the car. Deadbeat never replaced the lines like we told him to in it and complained that it ran like ass. Those old plastic lines were in such bad shape, I just replaced them with steel brake line and new rubber.
 

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the FIRST thing every good TDer should do when we are 'reviving/resurrecting' an older (original) TD is:

REPLACE ALL OE vacuum lines and connectors...

they are SO failure prone, and can give random and difficult to trace engine function issues.
 

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R.I.P Dennis Jarvis
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In your spare time you may want to consider installing a vacuum block.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
In your spare time you may want to consider installing a vacuum block.
have you got a part number or any suggestions on what one would come off of in the performance section, I mean the junk yard :p There are a lot of old turbo dodges at this junk yard I go to.
 

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There really wouldnt be a specific car that a vc block would be on, since it is not an OE thing. Basically its just a block that takes your main vac signal and splits it to 4 or 5 different lines, makes it look a lot cleaner than stock.
 

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This is a vacuum block.
They are available with all the fittings on eBay.

 
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