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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for help! I keep getting code 16 and power loss illuminates after that, I am working on a 2.2 sand car running 86 electronics with the GLHS stage II module I have tried 3 logic modules 3 power modules, 2 alternators.
I have updated the negative charge harness and switched to the nippondenso alternators. I have checked all connections and fusible links as well as tried all the tests listed on the sites that can be done with a multimeter. I am dollared to death and totally frustrated with this .Any one have any suggestions? When it runs it runs great, the car got left out uncovered in a big rainstorm 2 yrs ago and that is when the problem started.
 

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You more than likely have a wiring issue, the controller looks for battery voltage at Cavity 22 of the LM Blue connector, (RD/WT wire).
The RD/WT wire comes from the PM 12 Pin connector Cavity 6 and runs to the LM Blue Connector Cavity 2 and splits and runs to Cavity 22.

1)Verify if power is present at the LM Blue Connector Cavity 22. (RD/WT wire)
a)If Yes...Check the LM connector for damage/corrosion/spread/pushed out/cracked/broken terminals, repair as needed.
b)If you have power at the LM Blue Connector Cavity 22 and the connector/terminals are OK, replace the LM.
c)If No power is present at Cavity 22, Check to see if you have power at the LM Blue connector Cavity 2. (RD/WT wire)
d)If you have power at Cavity 2 but not Cavity 22, repair the wiring to Cavity 22.
e)If No power is present at Cavity 2 or 22, continue to step 2.

2)Be sure all of your power feeds are present into/out of the PM.
a)Power In...10 Pin Connector Cavities 2 (DB wire), 4 (PK)
b)Power Out...10 Pin Connector Cavity 3 (DB wire), 12 Pin Connector Cavity 6 (RD/WT)
Repair as needed.
If OK...
3)Verify all power inputs to the LM.
Red Connector...Cavities 7 and 8 (DB wire)
Blue Connector - Cavities 2 and 22 (RD/WT wire)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You more than likely have a wiring issue, the controller looks for battery voltage at Cavity 22 of the LM Blue connector, (RD/WT wire).
The RD/WT wire comes from the PM 12 Pin connector Cavity 6 and runs to the LM Blue Connector Cavity 2 and splits and runs to Cavity 22.

1)Verify if power is present at the LM Blue Connector Cavity 22. (RD/WT wire)
a)If Yes...Check the LM connector for damage/corrosion/spread/pushed out/cracked/broken terminals, repair as needed.
b)If you have power at the LM Blue Connector Cavity 22 and the connector/terminals are OK, replace the LM.
c)If No power is present at Cavity 22, Check to see if you have power at the LM Blue connector Cavity 2. (RD/WT wire)
d)If you have power at Cavity 2 but not Cavity 22, repair the wiring to Cavity 22.
e)If No power is present at Cavity 2 or 22, continue to step 2.

2)Be sure all of your power feeds are present into/out of the PM.
a)Power In...10 Pin Connector Cavities 2 (DB wire), 4 (PK)
b)Power Out...10 Pin Connector Cavity 3 (DB wire), 12 Pin Connector Cavity 6 (RD/WT)
Repair as needed.
If OK...
3)Verify all power inputs to the LM.
Red Connector...Cavities 7 and 8 (DB wire)
Blue Connector - Cavities 2 and 22 (RD/WT wire)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you NAJ for putting your time into this, You are truly dedicated to these cars and this forum! I will get on it and let you know what I find. Are these checks made with key off or key on engine off?
This is my second go around with this problem came down to the logic module the first time, GLHS 670 modules are hard to come by I had one fixed for this issue years ago by a guy named Mike Swartz from Flight Engineering Services but he has moved one to bigger and better things. Was told the tooling to repair these boards was taken down. Think is is just a transistor failure on the board, can anyone economically fix these?
 

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Key on, power on the DB wire comes from the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
NAJ, I found a couple issues, some corrosion on an inter body connector fixed that but no change. Walked away and came back a few hours later to again verify all my inputs were working which they seem to be. Pin 23 looks a little flatter than the rest in the red plug but I believe it is making a good connection.

The red Logic pinout you sent is backwards on the locating tab as viewed from the connector end I had other schematics that verified this no biggie.

On my red connector Pin 23,
Red pinout.JPG

circuit N6 Logic module power supply I have battery voltage from the new Cardone reman power module not the specified 7.5- 8 volts I suspect this could have something to do with the code 16 after a min or two, I also think this could be frying my GLHS Logic modules.
Could this be the culprit? I tried both new Power modules and they both show battery voltage on pin 23 LM red and pin 12 on the PM (12 pin) I don't think this is right, I plan to get Steve at Cardone on the phone again tomorrow, He has been trying to help me also. Does anyone fix Logic modules?
 

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We are not checking the 8 volt supply, we are checking the 12 volt supply at cavity 2 and 22 on the blue connector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes I have both of those, so replace LM? Is the Battery voltage going to take out another one? Thanks for your help!
 

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The code 16 sets when the controller does not see battery voltage at cavity 22 of the blue connector.
When I get home tomorrow I will send you Chryslers diagnostics for loss of battery voltage sense to be sure before you condemn the LM.
It will be from the 1990 Powertrain Diagnostics Manual, diagnostics will be the same, only the wiring will be different, we will change the wiring references to fit an LM/PM setup.
 

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I found the diagnostics for code 16 (loss of battery voltage sense) for 88/89 in my scans.
It is basically cut and dry...
DIAGNOSTICS
1)Turn the ignition switch on
2)Disconnect the SMEC 60 way connector, that would be the LM Blue connector for you.
3)Connect a voltmeter to the J1 (RD wire) in cavity 41 of the SMEC 60 way connector and ground, that would be the RD/WT wire in Cavity 22 of the LM Blue connector for you.
RESULTS
1)Voltmeter reads battery voltage...
a)Defective logic board, replace SMEC , that would be replace LM for you.
b)Before replacing the SMEC (LM for you) make sure the J1 terminal in Cavity 41 of the 60 way connector (Cavity 22 of the Blue LM connector for you) is not crushed (damaged, spread, corroded, pushed out, cracked, broken) causing a poor connection.
2)Voltmeter reads 0 ( or below battery voltage)
a)Repair the J1(RD wire) wire in Cavity 41 of the 60 pin connector, RD/WT wire in Cavity 22 of the LM Blue connector.

Here is more info on Code 16
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Sooo much! I had started nippon alt upgrade back in October and life got in the way so I came back to it some 5 mo later and finished it up. Then all this happened. I went back over everything, I found the culprit as you said it was the terminal on the RW wire in the LM blue pin 22 I thought it looked a little low in the connector, so I took it out and it was all green, corroded, and frail where you couldn't see it in the connector, I replaced that.and had hope! Then I went looking for the reason why I had battery voltage on the N6 7.5-8v circuit, I had K/O battery voltage on the LM red pin 23 and pin 12 on the PM as well as to the hall effect plugs even with no PM or LM hooked up, I went back over that circut and found I had it tied into the Ignition
IMAG0264.jpg
key on, think it had been that way for years, likely Uncle Bud was helping when I wired it. I probably thought I was putting power into PM not pulling it out.... Duh! It lives!

Thanks for your help! Jeff
😊😊😊😊
 

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That's Great!!!
 
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