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Piston Replacement Options

524 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  Schwifty
Hi all, so I was running Silv-O-Lite hypereutectic pistons in my turbo 2.2 common block, and I had one break. I've been researching for a while and it seems like the only pistons available that will hold up are forged. I would rather not drop $600 on a set of pistons, considering that's not much less than I have into the whole engine. As well as having to have my block machined all over again for more piston-to-wall clearance to use forged pistons.

Ideally I would want a set of OEM cast T2 pistons, but from what I see they're unobtanium now. Not to mention my block was bored .030 over, so used ones are pretty much out too. Unfortunately I didn't do things right the first time, so now I'm doing it again. I guess what I'm asking is what is the strongest cast piston that's still available? I was running 25 PSI on the Silv-O-Lite on 93, which in hind sight was asking a lot.

The weird thing is my head gasket failed at the same time as the piston. I'm thinking it may have been partially hydro locked with coolant, and that's actually what broke it. Just a theory. Has anyone else run Silv-O-Lite pistons? If so, how much boost are you running? The current plan is to just buy another set and turn the boost down to 20 PSI.
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The old saying that comes to mind is why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it over...

Well if you do buy another set, my advice is open the top ring gaps WAY up. I'd say like .020 or slightly higher. far better to be a little loose than have those ring gaps close up under boost. It seems that the ring lands always break on these pistons.

If you end up buying a set of forged pistons from our vendors, as you probably know you need to run these with about .004" clearance. The only problem in doing so is that the way they're sized, running .004" clearance puts the set of rings they supply you with with WAY too large of ring gaps! Like .026-.030" It's like the piston manufacturers or vendors are sizing these pistons with cast piston clearances! It's like they're made about .002 too large. I try to get around this by either ordering custom pistons or if buying from a vendor, to buy the upgraded ring package which will be a file fit .005" over ring size. Venolia pistons were famous for it. Wiseco's are made maybe .001 smaller. Still too large IMO. Remember π, each .001" increase in bore will open the ring gap up by .00314".

We all feel your pain. Sort of like shocks for our cars, there is garbage econo shocks/struts and then there is gold plated over hyped and over priced Koni's and it seems like nothing else in between.
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I'm actually running my cast pistons about that loose, .003 - .004, I can't remember exactly. Like you said the ring gap was already large so I didn't need to file them, it was in the .020 range. I'm probably going to run an even larger ring gap this time, like more in the .030 range.

I suppose when I get my new set I will just make sure my knock sensor is working, and run it fat and happy at 11:1 with really safe timing to give them the best chance of survival. When I want to make more power I will just build another engine and swap it in.
I'm actually running my cast pistons about that loose, .003 - .004, I can't remember exactly. Like you said the ring gap was already large so I didn't need to file them, it was in the .020 range. I'm probably going to run an even larger ring gap this time, like more in the .030 range.

I suppose when I get my new set I will just make sure my knock sensor is working, and run it fat and happy at 11:1 with really safe timing to give them the best chance of survival. When I want to make more power I will just build another engine and swap it in.
Just remember where your wideband sensor is located it is just an average of the 4 cylinders you're seeing # 3 & 4 will tend to run a little hotter and leaner.
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Yeah I've made a coolant re-route plate to hopefully mitigate that.
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I have a set of pistons JE just built for me they didn’t have the NHRA part number on them. They are also for stock pin. I’m using a .927 pin. I can cut them for a bigger pin just not that much. They are .043 over. These are forged I sent them back to JE. They offered them to me at half price. I’ll send anyone the contact at JE

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The old saying that comes to mind is why is there never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it over...

Well if you do buy another set, my advice is open the top ring gaps WAY up. I'd say like .020 or slightly higher. far better to be a little loose than have those ring gaps close up under boost. It seems that the ring lands always break on these pistons.

If you end up buying a set of forged pistons from our vendors, as you probably know you need to run these with about .004" clearance. The only problem in doing so is that the way they're sized, running .004" clearance puts the set of rings they supply you with with WAY too large of ring gaps! Like .026-.030" It's like the piston manufacturers or vendors are sizing these pistons with cast piston clearances! It's like they're made about .002 too large. I try to get around this by either ordering custom pistons or if buying from a vendor, to buy the upgraded ring package which will be a file fit .005" over ring size. Venolia pistons were famous for it. Wiseco's are made maybe .001 smaller. Still too large IMO. Remember π, each .001" increase in bore will open the ring gap up by .00314".

We all feel your pain. Sort of like shocks for our cars, there is garbage econo shocks/struts and then there is gold plated over hyped and over priced Koni's and it seems like nothing else in between.
I love the math. I wish people didn't shy away from it so much.
If they have some .030 over pistons with the stock .901" pin I may be interested. I also did end up finding some regular cast pistons on Summit. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-571cp75mm/make/plymouth/model/sundance/year/1990

The bad part is they're more of a flat top style which I don't really like. However if they're stronger than the hypereutectic pistons they may be a better option than the Silvolites.
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You might rethink all of that. I have 30 plus’ years of advanced engine development and tens of thousands of dyno pulls. I know how to design a piston for a on kill build. It would be nothing like the one in the picture. When you talk of vendors there are 3 piston manufacturers capable of building good pistons. This pistons is for a class where nothing is allowed to deviate from stock. In fact a sample piston had to be delivered to NHRA for approval first. I doThe pistons in the picture will be tossed in the scrap pile. They are fully usable and of a special alloy not normally called for. I offered to let someone call JE and get them at a huge discounted price. I paid about $100 a hole with upgraded pins and really trick rings. They will work with stock pins. The bore is really weird because of the ring availability.
Anyone want them let me know.
What's wrong with them is I’m using a .927 pin in place of the .901 pin. Why. Because I can use an ultra thin tool steel pin that is DLC coated.

I’m not trying to step on anyone’s toes but I know what to do one I have parts here is me picking up a motor
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Those are forged pistons. .043 over. The are a special alloy for high end power adder applications. I could care less if they go in scrap ben. I just wanted to help out. but they are available for about half price of my master WD.
I just don't have the money to have my block and rods re-machined right now.
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