i think the word you were looking for was shutter wheel , if it is loose on the plastic retainers grind the top of the retainers off remove the shutter wheel and use some 15min epoxy on the bottom of the wheel and reinstall should never have a problem again with it coming lose again remember to keep the shutter wheel indexed to she shaftPull the cap, rotor, & HEP off. try to wiggle just the thing that the HEP reads. (I forgot what it's called.) It's just held in by little plastic melted tits, sometimes they become loose. You can think of a creative way to tighten it up. Are you sure your timing is 100% correct?
sorry my fault i didnt mention that i did check the shutter wheel. it had no play. but i read about slapping on the epoxy and i put it on just for the hell of it (maybe the wheel wasnt sturdy enough). and as i suspected it didnt work.i think the word you were looking for was shutter wheel , if it is loose on the plastic retainers grind the top of the retainers off remove the shutter wheel and use some 15min epoxy on the bottom of the wheel and reinstall should never have a problem again with it coming lose again remember to keep the shutter wheel indexed to she shaft
check the oil gear to i shaft backlash maybe .010"
yes the timing is spot on. i can hold a timing light up to the cam gear and see the head/vc line thru the gear holes perfect. i did try a tooth advance and a tooth retarded in the past and im certain this is the right timing.Are you sure your timing is 100% correct?
no offense taken. the belt was tightened to spec. ever since i got this car running after i bought it, its been doing it. the only areas i havent touched were the ishaft/oil pump and ex valves. at this point im taking as much advise as i can, despite my skill level.Yes, it's possible, but *some* play is somewhat normal. Is the belt tightened to spec? That's likely to cause the mark to jump around.
I'm not trying to put down your mechanic skills, by any means, but if I were you, I'd pull the covers off & check one more time that all the marks are aligned properly. It's a common mistake that's happened to us all at some point.
well no. umm kinda. it started as a 2.2l t2. i replaced the bottom end with 2.5l and reflashed chip to t1 2.5l. everyone says it cool, cus running 2.2 cal on 2.5 is super bad. is that where my problem is? cus im waiting to dyno tune after i get bigger intercooler and +40s.Wait, you're running a TII cal. on a TI? hmmmm....
no. its all 89 daytona shelby which is all t2. i reflashed the t2 smec with a 2.5 t1 cal. the harness is t2. all induction, exhaust (exc turbo), fuel, wiring, electronics is all t2.In a nutshell the 2.5 uses about 20% more fuel than the 2.2 Thats ABOUT....... I have put a few 2.5's into cars that had 2.2's originaly. I used the stock computers and a set of +20's and the car ran totally normal but ive seen some swaps that ran like total garbage. Is your wiring in your current car still T1?