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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
is there normally play at the oil pump gear and IM shaft? this is when im turning the rotor with the dist cap off. im trying to diagnosis this ongoing pop and exhaust backfire problem. just trying to see what else i can check. thanks guys

travis
 

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According to Donovan's Dodge Garage : take the distributor out and whack the bottom with a hammer to make it slightly wider. It's crude, but it works. (You have to dig really deep in the website to find this.)

Add quote:

Fuel injectors, ECU's & Ignition system related.

On fluctuating spark...

From: David Zelkowski- I don't know if any body got the answer to Jeff's question on the fluctuating spark. It's caused by the excess clearance between the distributor drive blade and its corresponding slot in the oil pump shaft.

Here's the Team Shelby fix. Take out the distributor and hold it upside down in your left hand (or right hand if you're left handed). Get a hammer and smack the drive blade several times to slightly mushroom the end. Check the fit back in the engine. When it's just right the distributor will go in with some light resistance. It's crude but it works!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok i hammered it just before i left from work. it fit very snug (had to just barely tap it in). well theres still a small amount of play, im guessing its at the helical gear on the shaft/oil pump.

while i drove it home it ran badass. it didnt pop or backfire. then i went for some food earlier tonight and it backfired again. so it helped for a while (dammit lol)

so heres another question...will the i-shaft and oil pump gear play (its still there) cause the timing mark to jump around? at first after hammering the dist the mark didnt jump, then while i was adjusting the timing it started to jump around again.

would this timing mark jump cause this backfire? should i continue to investigate this jump or should i leave it alone and look elsewhere? getting pissed at this friggen car:bang head:bang head:bang head
 

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Pull the cap, rotor, & HEP off. try to wiggle just the thing that the HEP reads. (I forgot what it's called.) It's just held in by little plastic melted tits, sometimes they become loose. You can think of a creative way to tighten it up. Are you sure your timing is 100% correct?
 

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Pull the cap, rotor, & HEP off. try to wiggle just the thing that the HEP reads. (I forgot what it's called.) It's just held in by little plastic melted tits, sometimes they become loose. You can think of a creative way to tighten it up. Are you sure your timing is 100% correct?
i think the word you were looking for was shutter wheel , if it is loose on the plastic retainers grind the top of the retainers off remove the shutter wheel and use some 15min epoxy on the bottom of the wheel and reinstall should never have a problem again with it coming lose again remember to keep the shutter wheel indexed to she shaft

check the oil gear to i shaft backlash maybe .010"
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i think the word you were looking for was shutter wheel , if it is loose on the plastic retainers grind the top of the retainers off remove the shutter wheel and use some 15min epoxy on the bottom of the wheel and reinstall should never have a problem again with it coming lose again remember to keep the shutter wheel indexed to she shaft

check the oil gear to i shaft backlash maybe .010"
sorry my fault i didnt mention that i did check the shutter wheel. it had no play. but i read about slapping on the epoxy and i put it on just for the hell of it (maybe the wheel wasnt sturdy enough). and as i suspected it didnt work.

so my last things to check are the exhaust valvetrain, and the i-shaft/oil pump gear play

travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Are you sure your timing is 100% correct?
yes the timing is spot on. i can hold a timing light up to the cam gear and see the head/vc line thru the gear holes perfect. i did try a tooth advance and a tooth retarded in the past and im certain this is the right timing.

and like i post earlier, do yall think play in the ishaft gear and oil pump gear would cause the timing mark jump on the flywheel when checking with timing light??? thanks

travis
 

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Yes, it's possible, but *some* play is somewhat normal. Is the belt tightened to spec? That's likely to cause the mark to jump around.

I'm not trying to put down your mechanic skills, by any means, but if I were you, I'd pull the covers off & check one more time that all the marks are aligned properly. It's a common mistake that's happened to us all at some point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yes, it's possible, but *some* play is somewhat normal. Is the belt tightened to spec? That's likely to cause the mark to jump around.

I'm not trying to put down your mechanic skills, by any means, but if I were you, I'd pull the covers off & check one more time that all the marks are aligned properly. It's a common mistake that's happened to us all at some point.
no offense taken. the belt was tightened to spec. ever since i got this car running after i bought it, its been doing it. the only areas i havent touched were the ishaft/oil pump and ex valves. at this point im taking as much advise as i can, despite my skill level. :)

travis
 

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I think I would pull every connector related to ignition (power module connector on the SMEC, HEP, coil, everything) and check for corrosion. Clean up any that you can see, and relube with dielectric grease. Make sure all the spark plugs are in good shape and tight. Put some of the dielectric grease in each one of the plug wire ends, double check the condition of the plug wires & be sure they are properly clicked into the dist. cap. Look for condensation & carbon specks inside the distributor (this can cause arcing to the wall of the cap). Make sure the contacts inside the cap & on the rotor aren't corroded or excessively black. & check the timing again. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
well the coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, hep, smec, engine bay wiring harness, different cal, map sensor, knock sensor, idle control valve, coolant temp sensor (both), speed/distance sensor, all grounds and straps, injectors, and afpr have all been either replaced or swapped with another known good one. the timing is at 12deg with cts unplugged (and timing mark jumping). cam timing is perfect. crimped new terminals to coil. epoxied dist wheel and mushroomed dist tabs to fit tighter to oil pump. backfires still. i have been meaning to drive by fwdp and see what cindy thought. just need a day off. i had an idea of driving with the timing light attached and see if it stops blinking but havnt gotten around to it. i might buy a new oil pump and ishaft later to eliminate it. thanks all for being patient with me....

:confused: :mad: :( :bang head :shrug:

daytona===>:kaboom:<=== travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wait, you're running a TII cal. on a TI? hmmmm....
well no. umm kinda. it started as a 2.2l t2. i replaced the bottom end with 2.5l and reflashed chip to t1 2.5l. everyone says it cool, cus running 2.2 cal on 2.5 is super bad. is that where my problem is? cus im waiting to dyno tune after i get bigger intercooler and +40s.

travis
 

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In a nutshell the 2.5 uses about 20% more fuel than the 2.2 Thats ABOUT....... I have put a few 2.5's into cars that had 2.2's originaly. I used the stock computers and a set of +20's and the car ran totally normal but ive seen some swaps that ran like total garbage. Is your wiring in your current car still T1?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
In a nutshell the 2.5 uses about 20% more fuel than the 2.2 Thats ABOUT....... I have put a few 2.5's into cars that had 2.2's originaly. I used the stock computers and a set of +20's and the car ran totally normal but ive seen some swaps that ran like total garbage. Is your wiring in your current car still T1?
no. its all 89 daytona shelby which is all t2. i reflashed the t2 smec with a 2.5 t1 cal. the harness is t2. all induction, exhaust (exc turbo), fuel, wiring, electronics is all t2.

travis
 
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