Turbo Dodge Forums banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there!

I got this awesome used roller cam from a fellow member of Turbo Dodge, along with a few lifters...

Was sitting around and feeling a bit crafty and began to start wondering how I should polish my camshaft... use the highest grit sandpaper? Running my finger along the lobes, it feels very smooth but there is a very very slight roughness on a single lobe, like, very minor. Much less rough than the lobes of my current slider-on-roller setup!

I'm going to swap the cams and re-use the old roller followers and pull the valve cover next year and see if it is holding up... old hot rodders say you never run different followers with another cam... I guess we'll test it!
Finger Household hardware Font Gas Triangle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
945 Posts
Hey there!

I got this awesome used roller cam from a fellow member of Turbo Dodge, along with a few lifters...

Was sitting around and feeling a bit crafty and began to start wondering how I should polish my camshaft... use the highest grit sandpaper? Running my finger along the lobes, it feels very smooth but there is a very very slight roughness on a single lobe, like, very minor. Much less rough than the lobes of my current slider-on-roller setup!

I'm going to swap the cams and re-use the old roller followers and pull the valve cover next year and see if it is holding up... old hot rodders say you never run different followers with another cam... I guess we'll test it! View attachment 281876
I heard emery cloth was best for cams and crank journals. Or u can use mystery oil and just run it like this guy...


That cam was on a square tooth gear so I'm pretty sure it's the sought after 88 tbi cam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm Sorry, every time I scroll down and I read the title of your thread I start laughing hysterically. :ROFLMAO:

That's all, carry on.
Hey NAJ I was gonna ask you...

The fine gentleman who sold me my roller cam also sent me 4 hydraulic lifters, 2 of them have like no movement when I push them down with my thumb, and 2 of them have about as much movement as the adjuster that came out of my valvetrain where the roller follower was spit out... which lifter should I use when I put it back together? Should I soak them in oil for 24 hours as well, even if they're used?

Also... when I pull the cam off, should I first turn the motor to TDC to make it easier to set the timing? What's the smartest way to go about swapping a cam with the least amount of headache? I have an adjustable cam gear as well if that means anything...

Thanks for all the help NAJ!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That cam was on a square tooth gear so I'm pretty sure it's the sought after 88 tbi cam.
I'm super stoked to see how it drives... when it was running great at 14 psi, the car pulled hard until like 4500-5000 rpm and it dropped on it's face. The car had crap power from like 1000-2000 RPM, then a huuuuge kick in the ass until like 4500 and it was dead again.

Come to think about it, maybe the valve had been sticking this whole time slightly and that's why I had that smoke-issue after like 30+ minutes of driving. It was so weird. Never had a car erratically smoke like my LeBaron, and whenever I had a car with toasted pistons or rings, it would always smoke non-stop. This car ran beautifully and then all of a sudden start smoking, and then it would go away... also after taking apart the intake tubes there was not even a hint of oil going into the intake!
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,186 Posts
Hey NAJ I was gonna ask you...

The fine gentleman who sold me my roller cam also sent me 4 hydraulic lifters, 2 of them have like no movement when I push them down with my thumb, and 2 of them have about as much movement as the adjuster that came out of my valvetrain where the roller follower was spit out... which lifter should I use when I put it back together? Should I soak them in oil for 24 hours as well, even if they're used?

Also... when I pull the cam off, should I first turn the motor to TDC to make it easier to set the timing? What's the smartest way to go about swapping a cam with the least amount of headache? I have an adjustable cam gear as well if that means anything...

Thanks for all the help NAJ!!!
Yes you are correct that lifters/camshafts that are used and not from the same car should not be used together.

I would absolutely bring cylinder 1 to TDC on a compression stroke to make everything easier, however, you will still need to remove the lower timing cover to verify the intermediate shaft stays properly aligned.
When I replaced my front cam seal (in front of my apartment) I pried the belt off of the sprocket and suspended it with a bungy and slid it back on when done and then reset ignition timing.
Motor vehicle Wheel Font Line Automotive tire
White Jaw Organism Font Art


I also have an adjustable cam sprocket, for two reasons...
1)Got tired of being about a 1/2 tooth off on the cam after aligning all marks, tensioning the belt and two rotations of the crank.
2)I retarded cam timing for bracket racing purposes, The car always responded well to launch (assuming the driver had the proper rpm's when releasing the clutch and did not come off the clutch too hard/fast), I had no issues with reaction time and did not need increased 60' times, what I needed was more pull top end so it would be harder to be judged by quicker cars top end.
Previous to this my top end speed was in the 87.50 mph range hitting the traps in 3rd gear at 6100 rpm's.
Last time I raced which was 11 years ago the car in time trials ran 15.85, 15.85 and 15.86 at 88,50, 88.50 and 89.00 mph, 1st time ever hitting 88 + mph in the 1/4 mile.
Using the adjustable cam sprocket can help you get things dialed in.
Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire Automotive exterior Car


As far as the lifters...
If you can push the plunger down and it feels soft/spongy you need to bleed the air from the lifter and see if it is still easy to push down, if it is, the lifter is faulty, if a lifter that is not filled with oil is hard to push down the lifter is faulty or dirty.

Font Material property Rectangle Paper Paper product


Do not forget about the bearing caps.
Font Rectangle Number Art
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
26,186 Posts
I have never done this but I would think that if the wear is not severe and you use a good quality oil (synthetic preferred) that you would not have any issues daily driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
416 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have never done this but I would think that if the wear is not severe and you use a good quality oil (synthetic preferred) that you would not have any issues daily driving.
I'm going to run it and document the wear... I'm just on a veeeeerrrry tight budget at the moment!

So excited to drive the car with a clutch that holds past 5 psi... hehe
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,744 Posts
I'm Sorry, every time I scroll down and I read the title of your thread I start laughing hysterically. :ROFLMAO:

That's all, carry on.
I know right?
I finally clicked on the thread to end the laughter
 
  • Like
Reactions: NAJ
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top