Turbo Dodge Forums banner

1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have a 90 Daytona thas has a popping noise in the right front wheel area. It pops when going over speed bumps or going over dips in the road. I replaced the ball joints and swapped in a know good strut/strut mount and spring and the noise, although it doesn't occur as often is still there. Before replacing the ball joints I could make it pop by pushing up and down on the passenger fender. Both myself and the mechanic that performed the front end alignment checked all the bolts in the area, and all were tight. I would replace the control arm bushings if I thought it would help. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks Mike
 

·
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined
·
1,454 Posts
Try disconnecting the sway bar and bounce it again. if the noise goes away, replace the bushings. Even if you can't feel any play, they can be bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,232 Posts
Disconnect the sway bar at the a-arms on both sides. Then push it up and down to see if that helped. The sway bar (anti-sway bar) bushings get dry and old and could let the bar hit something. Check that first!

Johnny
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Oops, forgot to post that I already replaced all 4 of the sway bar bushings. Only thing left is the control arm bushings, unless there is a broken weld in the crossmemeber or something. I didn't see anything obvious when I replaced all the pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137,665 Posts
Ok, let me say I had something very similar happen to me and it drove me nuts!!!!

I replaced everything. I replaced tie rod ends, control arm bushings, strut tower mount bushings, struts, ball joints. I even went as far as to switch to a coil over suspension that elimiated a few things I thought it could be. I also replaced the sway bar bushings, greased and lubed EVERYTHING. I went back and tightened every bolt from the ground up in the front and nothing worked. I got so frustrated about it that I took it to an alignment shop and told the guy to fix it and not to call me until he found the problem and fixed it. He calls me the next morning (it was bitter sweet) and lets me know he found the problem. Turns out I had at one time put my car back together, but forgot to tighten the peach bolt that secures the ball joint to the hub. In doing this, it allowed the hub knuckle to separate from it's normal form and made the front end extremely loose. The bolt seemed tight because the hub had separated causing tension, which made the bolt "tight". The problem was no matter how tight I made it, it wasn't tight enough. He had to beat it back into place and this fixed my problem.

Having said all that, I would ask your alignment guy to check on this.


Hope this helps,

minigts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,733 Posts
That and make sure your inner tie rod ends are not sticking, as they can get sticky and make a pop when they move.

I wouldn't use a 1/2" gun on those bolts, I would use a 3/8" gun and torque them to about 40ft-lbs or so, I don't really see any need to go tighter, as those bolts will bend - I've found this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137,665 Posts
You may have to beat it into submission then use a bolt. I'm not sure how the guy did it, but it solved my problem. Again, this may not be yours but it's worth a shot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,947 Posts
there were alot of problems with the top bearing plates and the isolators for the springs, i've sold a Ton of those
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,215 Posts
Una said:
I had a bad ball joint, but replacing it only helped the car stop hooking corners, didn't eliminate the popping.
Brian... "hooking"?? What did you mean by that. I'm experiencing a similar issue with my Daytona as the one that started the thread, Steering seems to be intermittantly affected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,215 Posts
THANKS!!!!! Will check that out.

Give you an example of mine.. I was going slow making a left turn in the driveway. It was like the nose went straight, then caught and turned quickly. This is a 170k mile car so it's bound to happen. Think I'll remove both control arms and re bushing and ball joint them along with the sway bar while I'm at it. (engine will be out fresh one going in)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137,665 Posts
Una said:
I'd be making a corner near the limits of my car's ability, and all of a sudden that ball joint would shift, and the car would want to turn alot more than I had been, like it'd want to jump off the road on a right turn. When I finally got under the car to start replacing things, I could grab the knuckle on the driver's side and push/pull it in/out and see the ball joint wiggling around. It's not supposed to be able to do that. The other side which was still good wouldn't do that. I replaced both ball joints just to save having to do it again in a month on the other side. :)

My problem had that problem as well. The popping noise and the "torque" steer as it seemed, were symptoms of the loose hub on the ball joint.

I would make sure to check that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
247 Posts
Another think to look at is the "centering" of the anti-sway bar, even with new bushings, if the bar is off center to one side it can cause the end of the bar to knock up against the underside of the control arm. look at the how much of the bar protrudes from each of the end bushings and make sure it is the same. also, try and position the end bushings as far out on the bar as the bracket will allow.

Regarding the ball joint; I would not use anything other than the recommended torque on the ball joint clamp bolt, (which is 70 ft lbs on your 1990). If it will not torque then you may need a new nut/bolt or the ball joint "clamp" on the knuckle could be distorted and should be replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137,665 Posts
csracer said:
Regarding the ball joint; I would not use anything other than the recommended torque on the ball joint clamp bolt, (which is 70 ft lbs on your 1990). If it will not torque then you may need a new nut/bolt or the ball joint "clamp" on the knuckle could be distorted and should be replaced.

Well in the case of mine, standard torque would not correct the spreading of the lower hub knuckle, so excess torque or force will probably be necessary. I don't think knuckle replacement is necessary unless there are stress cracks or damage to it. In my case it was just open a little larger than the ball joint pin, so the extra force to close the gap was necessary. I haven't had any problems since this. About 3 months so far. I guess I'll cross my fingers.... :hide:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
csracer said:
Another think to look at is the "centering" of the anti-sway bar, even with new bushings, if the bar is off center to one side it can cause the end of the bar to knock up against the underside of the control arm. look at the how much of the bar protrudes from each of the end bushings and make sure it is the same. also, try and position the end bushings as far out on the bar as the bracket will allow.

Regarding the ball joint; I would not use anything other than the recommended torque on the ball joint clamp bolt, (which is 70 ft lbs on your 1990). If it will not torque then you may need a new nut/bolt or the ball joint "clamp" on the knuckle could be distorted and should be replaced.
I thought this might be the situation on my car but no dice. Still searching for problem. Mike
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Ahh, decided to remove the sway bar entirely and test drive it. No noises! I will drive it the 5 miles to work tomorrow and make sure, but apparently the sway bar end that attaches to the control arm is hitting the control arm even with the new bushings. If you try this with your car, drive gingerly as the car is very unstable without the bar. I will post what I find. Mike
 

·
Legendary Driver
Joined
·
10,913 Posts
Mine is still popping. I was sitting in the drive way tonight and turned the wheel to the right and it popped. Never done that before. Took off and drove a little ways down the road. Hitting a small bump going straight it popped back. I say back because it usually does it turning right going into a driveway or around a corner and then as you straighten out it pops back then it'll be fine till you make a right turn again and it'll pop, then pop back when you straighten back out. Sound like ball joints? the bushing on the stub strut? I'm at a total loss and wish the thing would just break in half so I could figure it out.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top