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Discussion Starter #1
Ive posted numberous times on AISM problems and Idle problems in general, and now I am completely in the dark. After cleaning and re-installing the AISM on my 84' Daytona Turbo Z, The idle is scaring me.

1) The engine will start to die, and it WILL DIE if I dont turn the motor clockwize. So after every turn, the rpm goes up, but then lowers again to almost dead. This goes on for about 1/2 - 3/4 of a complete rotation. Then, out of the clear blue sky, the idle will start to go up and up! So I, doing the only logical thing, turn the motor the opposite way as before, counter-clockwize! This will go on for hours, until I say a bunch of naughty words and unplug the AISM and set the Idle Set Screw.

2) The timing is dead on, and I know it is. (base timing at least) But during acceleration, anything above 1/2 push of the gas pedal will get me detonation. If I am correct, is the timing not controled by the PCM?

3)Horrible gas milage. 9 mpg on the last tank. Just replaced the oxy censor for the 2ND TIME. I know my car is running rich out the ass,which is why I am confused about the detonation aspect of it.

I think that about sums up the problems as of right now. My trans makes some WEIRD noises, but im not to worried about htem. its only a 525 anyway, their crap as it is.

My last question is related to the PCM. Is that the one under the hood or is that the one under the kick panel inside the car? And if it is shot, would it hurt to purchase an upgraded one instead of buying a stock one?

Sorry for the long post. Just alot of information to cover and I just wanted to cover all of it. Any help is needed and would be GREATLY APPRICIATED.

Thanks,

-Matt S.
 

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Basics my friend. Do what Russ says, now check CAM timing, not ignition timing, 2 seperate items but you need to check both, make sure coolant sensor is disconnected when checking ig timing.
Do a compression test, disconnect HEP when doing it, hold throttle open.
Check fuel pressure as reg could be bad.
State of tune-up??????
 

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What sort of shape are your vacume lines in??? If they have not been replaced with new rubber line take all that junk old stuff off and throw it in the garbage. Get your self a four way vacume fitting (like off of a 70s 350 chevy, I think I got my last one off of a 90 explorer 4.0) and screw it into your manifold. Then get a roll of 3/16s vacume line and a vacume diagram and go to work. I had alomost the same thing going on with 89 car and after barrowing a DRB tool to see that the map was only seeing 13inches of vacume when the guage was reading 17inches. I was just running to much with the same vacume line but if you have a leak or what ever it can cause all sorts or problems. With 20year old plastic lines you are just looking for headaches.

You can also check the movement of the TPS motor with DRB tool too if you know anyone that has one.

Next if you have not checked the voltage on the TPS you need to. If it is giveing a funky reading or has dead spots get a fresh one. If it is giving a bad reading at idle this could be your problem.

Hope this helps!!!

Later,
Kris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Im rather confident that my vacume lines are in relatively good condition. I rebuilt the engine about a year ago. I will check the cam timing in the next few days, and keep you guys posted. Thanks for all your help.

I did notice a new occurence. Sometimes, during acceleration from a stop, and especially while turning, the engine seems to sputter almost, kind of like it would if the AC was on. Also, just after start up, it will run for 5-15 seconds, then die. I will start it again, give it a rev, and it will run like a champ (not die)
Just thought I would add that to the problem.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #6
well, Cam timing is dead on.

Just out of curiosity, I let the AISM keep adjusting idle instead of turning it back and forth as mentioned before, and it just kept raising the idle up and up until the car got so hot that it started to smoke. The smoke was coming from around the general area of the exhaust manafold and the heatsheild above it.

I havent checked the fpr yet, thats next on the list.

What kind of voltage should I be seeing from the TPS and how do I properly test it?

Thanks,

Matt S.
 

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Matt, if you need it I have a new, in box, AIS motor and valve assembly for an 84-87 T1. Since it is the Mopar service part, it includes a pigtail if needed. Your PCM is a 2 part system, logic module in the right kick panel, power module under hood next to battery. If there is a computer problem, it is probably the logic module. Unfortunately, I sold the complete 84 Laser XT engine and all controls to a gentleman with an 84 LeBaron turbo. The only piece left is the 5 speed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well before the "smoking" inncident, It was not throwing any codes.

After taking your advice though, I pulled codes:

22 - Coolant sensor was disconnected to check timing.

35 - Cooling fan relay curcuit open or shorted ?

Those are the only 2 that im getting. I dont know what the fan relay curcuit is, maybe its a problem in the pcm or the relay ;) Oh well. Anyone else have any other suggestions?
 
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