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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, so I am trying to replace a bent power steering pulley on my 1990 Plymouth Sundance 2.2, (the one to the left in the image) but I swear it's unobtanium. I ordered two different pulleys, but neither of them have the correct diameter in order to press onto the pump. It seems like my old pulley was designed to work with the serpentine pulley pumps, but it uses a v-belt. Was there a weird period during the 2.2's life where they did something like that? Every 2.2 I find in junkyards uses the pulley in the middle of the image.
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Is this the Saginaw pump (metal ham can) or the ZF pump (plastic reservoir tank)? They used the more rare ZF pumps mostly from 88-90 cars IIRC. The one on the left looks like the ZF pump pulley to me. Not nearly as plentiful as the Saginaw pumps. Obviously you have figured out the ZF pump and the Saginaw pulleys are not interchangeable. You might need to switch over to the more plentiful Saginaw pump, bracket, and pulley, if you cannot find the hard to obtain ZF pulley. The ZF pump pulley for the 90 2.2/2.5 is Mopar 4387292.
You might be able to find a rebuilt one, if so, be sure the pulley is included. The reservoir comes off easy enough. These pulleys are tough to get off, I've bent pulleys trying to use a puller on them. I ended up taking it to an alternator rebuilding shop that had a pneumatic puller to get mine off.
Good luck!
Oh BTW I forgot to add the high pressure hose is different too from the Saginaw.
 

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5214734 1 PULLEY, (Saginaw) w/2.2, 2.5L Eng.
4483446 1 (Saginaw) w/3.0L Eng.
4387292 1 (ZF) w/2.2, 2.5L Eng.
4425138 1 Q (ZF) w/2.2L Eng. (Maserati TC)
4483748 1 C,Y (ZF) w/3.3L Eng.
4483220 1 S (ZF) w/3.3L Eng.

from the 1990 part book

looks like it is either 5214734 or 4387292

the OEM number is often on the pulley
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I can't find that thing anywhere. I'm thinking I might just have my local machinist make me an adapter for the Saginaw pump, that seems like the fastest/easiest solution. I just rebuilt this engine and I really want to drive it.
 

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Yeah, I can't find that thing anywhere. I'm thinking I might just have my local machinist make me an adapter for the Saginaw pump, that seems like the fastest/easiest solution. I just rebuilt this engine and I really want to drive it.
An adapter? You just need Mopar parts if switching over to the Saginaw pump. Looks like you have a pulley, now you need the pump, the mounting bracket and the correct PS high pressure hose (based on which steering rack you have). All of these should be easy to find. Well, at least much easier than the ZF pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking of an adapter that presses into the middle of the pulley to make the hole smaller, so it can just press onto the pump I already have. Since I have both of the pulleys, a shop should have no problem making it. I eyeballed the Saginaw pump alignment to the crank pulley, it looks like it would work fine.
 

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I was thinking of an adapter that presses into the middle of the pulley to make the hole smaller, so it can just press onto the pump I already have. Since I have both of the pulleys, a shop should have no problem making it. I eyeballed the Saginaw pump alignment to the crank pulley, it looks like it would work fine.
Well make sure you check the labor rates of machine shops in your area. All the machine shop in my area are $100 and up per hour. Maybe you have a friend that can machine one up at their home for next to nothing. Then you need to figure out what kind of press that needs too on both ID and OD. I would think for that kind of money, you could have a complete used assembly shipped to you from a salvage yard.
BTW the Saginaw pumps are easily rebuildable at home for cheap $. If you decide to rebuild one yourself, make sure you replace the shaft bushing, as it will undoubtedly have wear. The Gates rebuild kits are sold with or without the shaft bushing. Worn shaft bushing is what knocks out the front seal, caused from having too much belt tension.
Good luck on the repair, at least you know why your having issues matching up those pulleys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The reason I'm hesitant to swap the pump over is because the one I have is a rebuilt unit, and the hose was replaced not too long ago. My machinist is relatively cheap, I certainly wouldn't pay $100 to have him make a little adapter. At least now I know, and I will probably end up swapping to the Saginaw after the pump I have goes bad. Thanks for the info guys.
 

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I might have a spare ZF pump.

I'll try to remember to check it out next time I'm in my shop.

Thanks
Randy
 
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Where are you located I have zf complete pump that I got with a car I bought so I don’t know if it works. I tried giving it away and no one wanted it.


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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah If I could get the actual pulley for it that would be even better. Those things are on tight for sure, I bent mine a long time ago trying to remove it with a regular 3 prong puller like an idiot.
 

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It appears that Slam0325 has solved your problem. FWI if somebody runs into this problem or something similar again you can type in search engine (address bar)---size ID & OD of bushing & you might come across what you need. Just did a generic search & came up with a lot of info-------https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=metal+bushings
 

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If anyone needs 1, I have a complete Rebuilt Saginaw PS unit that probably has a total of 3k miles on it, and it never leaked / the Ham Can type -Pump /v belt Pulley like the center 1 posted in his pic above with the 3 pulley types, and the original bracket and bolts and the correct gates V-belt (off an 84 Dodge Daytona 2.2L/135 single point Bosch TBI Engine- Non-Turbo), available and for sale if needed.

Will need new pressure/return hoses though, as I cut mine up about 6" in length on the steel ends from the rack attachment points (Cheap but very effectively Converted to manual steering to take the PS off the crank robbing HP in my class car), added new pressure hoses and a "T" w/ a cap on a bracket above, the hoses act as an effective reservoir, and allows me to also fill from a cheap squeeze bottle as/if necessary in the future (included a pic, car actually steers like a new manual rack was installed, but it wasn't). Only thing left driving off the crank now is the cam, intermediate shaft (oil pump/dist), and the alternator (required for NHRA Stock Eliminator).

Hey, when you only have 99HP in the slowest heavy sled Chrysler ever produced (and you race Stock), you need to get rid of all the parasitic HP robbing bandits you are allowed to delete/convert/or switch to electric-which is what the water pump is now (that was a little more interesting to find the exact proper sized width/length and type multi-ribbed belt and add just the right adapter on the water pump, to switch it to a Moroso Electric Water Pump Motor and pulleys and belts and get the proper belt clearances. (Included a pic of the mocked up unit, my machinist just finished milling the part that mates it all perfectly). Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior
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Yes, I will shorten those hoses by using 90 degree barbed fittings pointed downward instead of out horizontally, and shorten and straighten out those hoses and compact it a bit more, but wanted to allow as much space for fluid to be added and let it sit while the short block is out at the machine shop, and allow as much air to rise out of the rack as possible before doing so. Of course, that would be right about where most of your Turbo's would be located, but I do not have one!
 

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