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Discussion Starter #1
Just saw the last 14 sets of these get ordered from Chrysler inventory, and for now I can't see them as being forecasted for further production. So GET THEM WHILE YOU CAN!!!

I see 2 sets of 4 at Lee Chrysler in Auburn Maine an 8 sets of 4 at Tempe Chrysler in Tempe Arizona!

Just FYI
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Just make sure you call them first unless it says in stock/ships today!
I can't tell you how many times a week Summit and Jegs call for availability on NS1 parts that customers all ready ordered...
And I think list price at the dealer is $36 for 4.
 

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I've noticed the PT lifters are getting more and more expensive for the Mopar ones. Does any one have any info on the Topline #LIFC28 lifters?
 

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That is excellent news.

I've just been plucking them from wrecked PTs and Cloud cars at the yard. The used stock ones work great after a soak in Seafoam. But, it's good to know new Mopar ones are still out there.
 

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I grabbed a ton of them one day a while back, but is there any after market PT Lifters that will work? The Mopar ones are so expensive.
 

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I grabbed a ton of them one day a while back, but is there any after market PT Lifters that will work? The Mopar ones are so expensive.
Expensive? If the above quote $36 for 4 is right, that's only $9 each... About the only lifters you can buy cheaper are SBC...:shrug:
 

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Because it's almost $80 for one motor. That's not too expensive, but better mods could be had for the same price. Junk yard ones are a steal (Sometimes literally.)
 

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Because it's almost $80 for one motor. That's not too expensive, but better mods could be had for the same price. Junk yard ones are a steal (Sometimes literally.)
The cost-benefit value of the PT lifters is completely worth the $80. If we're talking about raw HP numbers, then maybe a tuned ECU at ~200 is the better deal. Honestly though, setting up your car with a good foundation is always priority over making power. We've seen time and again where someone takes one of these cars and starts throwing cheap power modifiers at it and they work... for a time. Then they end up cracking a piston or melting a head or whatever. For the smoothness, reduction in losses, and safety factor that the PTs provide, it should be lumped into the same category as upgrading your brakes and putting fresh suspension under the car. It's just a good idea to do it before you go nuts making a monster power build. Just my 2 cents. :thumb:
 

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Oh, I know. I've thrown these in both of my 2.5L engines, makes them run a little better and a lot less noisy. I can't remember but I remember, maybe, ThePope said something about the Topline ones having a better design. I just cannot find a place to purchase them. I'd imagine they'd be cheaper too, since most after market ones are only $15 a box.
 

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In a nutshell, the originals have a tendency to not bleed off any air entrained in the oil fast enough.

As air compresses and oil does not, the result can be clacky lifters and less than full valve lift.

Some engines had more problems than others, but the PT style have a bleed hole right at the tip allowing air to easily escape.

Only problem is they are shorter in length and require shims to install them at the correct operating height.

Thanks
Randy
 

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^ What Randy said.

The way the Pope sums it up, you get to keep more of the power your engine is making by switching to the PTs (implying you lose power from the stock units slop).

There's a write-up on it in the FAQ section and UnaClocker posted a video on YouTube (in the Pope's thread) showing you how to do the swap.
 

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Quick question, when you get used PT lifters and install them, should the engine crank over and start, or do you need to compress them first. I put a set in and the engine spins freely, like there is no compression. Just wondering.
 

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Did you get shims?

Yes, as mentioned above, you for sure need to get a set of shims. Installing just the shorter PT Lifter will not give you any valve action at all. Used lifters will have been run and will probably be full of oil already, but if not, as soon as the engine builds oil pressure the lifters that have collapsed or have no more oil in them will pretty quickly pump up and start working the valve stem to open/close the valve as the cam rotates.

If you need shims, you can still get them from a fw sources, one of which is over at turbododgeparts.com. They offe the lifters w/shims as well as shims only.

GET THE DETAILS ► PT Lifters and Shims for turbo Dodge Cars

 

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I actually got the kit you're displaying. I discovered about an hour ago that the cam and crank are no longer synced. So, trying to get them synced without the ability to raise the car and remove pulley and belts to get at the timing belt tensioner properly. Boxed myself into a corner on this one.
 

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Unfortunately, I had to loosen the bolt on the tensioner to get the belt off. Will try setting the tension after setting the intermediate shaft and cam timing. Hopefully as the cam "snaps" from compressing the valve to releasing, the timing belt won't also snap, and everything will stay in sync. Thanks for the suggestion and the link. Got the car started, now to get it timed.
 
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