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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the car is a 88 shelby z and when i come to a stop it tries to stall. also before it warms up it likes to kind of skip or miss like the timing is off but i checked that and it looks as if the timing is right on.i bought a cheapy hep just to check to see if that was the problem before i go mopar, but before i even install that i wanna check with you guys here.
im looking for some suggestions on were i can find this. ive looked for it but im coming up a little short. i was thinking it was behind this black plastic cover on the tps but before i start manhandling things i want to make sure.
thanks for any suggestions.

chris
 

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read the sticky about poor idle before you go broke throwing parts at the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i cleaned the ais again and it runs without stalling now. but i still have the problem when its cold(the missing, skipping of the motor). it only happens when its cold. all the way to work 10 min. but when i leave work it happens for like 2 min then it doesnt do it again. egr??? didnt find one on my car. were should i look. i thought that was on t1's or non turbos? any suggestions will be helpfull. 4 days till i go to the track.lol
 

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Your "cold running" miss condition may be related to ignition when the relative humidity/dewpoint are high. First be sure the plugs are not fouled with any contaminants and they are gapped properly. Use a spray bottle and spray the ignition coil, wires, cap and see if the engine starts to miss or you see any arcing. Check the continuity of the wires, no more than 5 - 6k ohms per foot.Be sure the rotor tip is not burnt and there is no moisture in the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hey naj... i went through the tests as you stated and everything checked out ok but im still getting that miss when it is cold. it still acts funny for about 15 min after initial start-up. if you have aby other ideas it would be much appreciated. yhanks
 

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You have checked all the obvious so next is to be sure it is not injector or mechanical related.
If the plugs are clean and burning normally you do not have a problem with oil such as valve seals.Remember, oil burning that is slight will not leave oil residue on the plugs, it will be a white, crusty deposit that will continue to build on the electrodes.
A cold engine requires more fuel and if you are slightly lean due to a dirty injector(s) or burnt valve you may notice it more when cold.
You need to run an "injector balance" test which will show if all of the injectors are suppling the proper amount of fuel to each cylinder.To run this test you need an injector tester(which will pulse each injector and a pre-determined pulse rate) and a fuel pressure gauge. If you do not have access to that equipment have the injectors chemically cleaned with a pressurized injector cleaner that hooks directly to the fuel rail, that will clean the injectors and carbon deposits from the combustion chambers and piston tops. Putting a cleaner in the tank will not do the job.
Secondly run a cylinder leak down test to check for burnt valves, also be sure the camshaft is not worn.
 

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Make sure the plug wires seat all the way into the cap. I've seen that before. The insulation is too fat and won't push in all the way. Too funny, 10 minutes with a hand drill and they slide in and the car runs perfect.
 
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