[73IH810]

Any photos or brand/part# off the distributor?

Racing 2.2 distributor. 100.00 also cylinder heads send intakes. Lots of charger parts hear many new. Please contact me Plymouth Duster Tom.

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

yeah..
I checked his other threads.. claims to have 2 "88 shelby chargers
..(LOL)
and some great stash of parts

I'm CALLING BULLSHIT

other threads are deleted

OP has one day to prove said stash or ..ban

 

[85lebaront2]

Any photos or brand/part# off the distributor?

If he turns out to be a scammer and you need or want a 2.2L non-computer distributor, I have one I built and never used. It is made from 1.7L and 2.2L distributors and does have both centrifugal and vacuum advance if I remember correctly. I can dig it out and get pictures. I do remember it uses a 1983 cap and rotor.

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I'm seeing 22 "static IP address ..location varies from seattle to callifornia

described as "likely static IP"
as opposed to a dynamic IP ..which shows a new ip addy number each time

SO...
like I said above.................b-s

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

1988 shelby charger .. that's whatcha call rare eah ??
imagine the luck having ,not one but two

(LOLOLOL)

cough

 

[85lebaront2]

Do you have your hip waders on?

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

I see no reason to step off the dock ...

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

well,I've been deleting new members with multiple reuses of the user name ..joyos01 ,joyos 03 ..like that for the past week..
today
I see nothing the kind just what appears to be hopefully real new members

we also now have a post count clock in the site mechanisms so they won't be using the PM system at least until they stick around to make a few posts..

maybe I'll have less sweepin' to do ..now

and the for sale section got updated .. I mentioned to the admins that it was kinda had to find being only one line of type .. as I was used to looking for a section or block of threads in the forums listing

thanks goes out to Mark at autoguide

 

[glrcng]

If he turns out to be a scammer and you need or want a 2.2L non-computer ditributor, I have one I built and never used. It is made from 1.7L and 2.2L distributors and does have both centrifugal and vacuum advance if I remember correctly. I can dig it out and get pictures. I do remember it uses a 1983 cap and rotor.

And mine already has an electronic spark module and harness from an earlier model carbed Omni that was an improvement. I will try anything legal at least once.

Dig it out if you can find it please, I would certainly like to see the pics, as I am not limited as to ignition parts except limited to only 1 coil since it was OEM only a single coil (book only says "any automotive type ignition system/dist."), and I would certainly give it an attempt at least once, when I have the project completed. A 1983 cap and rotor from a 2.2L, or a 1.7L?

And mine already has an electronic spark module and harness, from an earlier model carbed Omni that was quite an improvement.

 

[85lebaront2]

If I remember correctly, I bought a remanufactured 1.7L distributor and cut the shaft to fit into a 1983 2.2L body then lined the drive lug up so that set up in the normal position for a 2.2/2.5L distributor #1 plug wire would be in the normal location. Cap and rotor are from a 1983 and I have a new rotor, no cap. It uses a single HEP and I was planning on using the same module you are apparently running. It was to be for an SCCA car, a 1987 Turismo 2.2 which had the Omni GLH NA engine from the factory. Reading the SCCA rules, that car slid sideways through the loopholes. By the time I added the legal compression increase "reinforced" the front bumper/air dam with sheet aluminum and used the stock intake location behind the headlights it should have made some serious power.

 

[glrcng]

If I remember correctly, I bought a remanufactured 1.7L distributor and cut the shaft to fit into a 1983 2.2L body then lined the drive lug up so that set up in the normal position for a 2.2/2.5L distributor #1 plug wire would be in the normal location. Cap and rotor are from a 1983 and I have a new rotor, no cap. It uses a single HEP and I was planning on using the same module you are apparently running. It was to be for an SCCA car, a 1987 Turismo 2.2 which had the Omni GLH NA engine from the factory. Reading the SCCA rules, that car slid sideways through the loopholes. By the time I added the legal compression increase "reinforced" the front bumper/air dam with sheet aluminum and used the stock intake location behind the headlights it should have made some serious power.
View attachment 280966 View attachment 280967 View attachment 280968 View attachment 280969

Genius, I would enjoy the attempt to see how well it advances. I certainly like how you put the vacuum advance rod outside the cap, did you have to notch the cap on the edge do you remember? I have taken my spark control pretty much completely away from the power module, so am free to try anything. It definitely is "an automotive type distributor" (and strangely enough, it was 1 place they did not use the phrase OEM).

When we installed the carbed Omni Spark box and harness (I took an old 3 prong single HEP base, cut the end off, and we pig tailed it off of the connection just with black silicone (though completely terminated red/green/black where it normally plugs into the Dist. base plate, so it plugs into the original connection or the added ignition box-whichever one is not connected at the time (and just acts as a dummy dust cover to keep moisture, oil, grease, etc. out), and switching back over to the stock hookup only takes about 3 mins- 1 HEP connection plug switchover, and disconnect 1 wire at the coil. So, that would plug right up either way, and I certainly have the vacuum ports free.

I think it would really be interesting to test it out to see exactly what kind of spark advance curve it produces, compared to what I am getting now. Are you willing to reasonably part with it Glhs60? (And I certainly Thank You for digging it out and letting me get a good look at it, either way)...Your craftsmanship in the fabrication was really good, everything looked like it would work right, and was locked well where it should be, and movable where it should be, I cannot see anywhere where any issues would possibly crop up. You did a great job on that hybrid distro.

Sometimes the old school way (centrifugal or vacuum advance), just may work better than a first attempt dual computer (ECU and PWM), hybrid system and the 84 TBI was the simplest but worst of them all. I personally like taking control of some things (just too many safety's once you move up performance at all that they did not design into the low power, and intended lesser polluting, non-High Performance 80's slow dog of a street car that does not have a turbo power booster attached), and luckily this one major controlling sensor, does not throw a code or cause it to go into limp in mode.

I have been studying the BoostButton cals on GitHub for other models, his instructions on downloading and using the tuning software, (also looked at The Terminator Tuning Software), and will need to work up and mfg my own USB or SCSI cable it appears (I just wish he had attempted to go back just 1 more year to the 84' TBI, and attempted to read the code (as he may have made easy sense of it), even though it was never released except to the rebuilders, and I have found nobody yet so far that is willing to make the attempt to crack it, allow at least reading, or even attempting to socket the ECU, or just allow flag setting-changes. Worst case just read the data, create data logs...And just increase or shutoff the rev limit feature.

I have through a lot of trial and error (working 1 sensor at a time), and working in logical solutions to keep it from either throwing a code (though some that do are not logical at all but more diagnostic, entering limp in mode, or switching loops. And some are easy, some are flat much harder to change or take control of without the ECU self correcting (sometimes not in a good way)...luckily the timing setting procedure of unplugging the temp sensor (they made sure it would not throw a code if unplugged temporarily or permanently, since that was a reasonable tech/maint. procedure), and there is a lot you can do with that since that temp voltage controls base lean/rich when plugged in based on what the ECU sees at that sensor, and data/signal it receives from that temp sensor (a simple dial potentiometer, allows me to either compensate between differing altitude tracks (1 time per track change, and not varying it while at that track for class racing), or...if Bracket racing, it can be set Leaner during heat of the day, then as air and temp change to the cooler side and it naturally leans out as it cools off, dialing it richer into the night just 1 number at a time, per round to just maintain consistency round to round, by allowing me to send base lean/rich to the ECU, and then it compensates in a narrower band within that.

Does anyone know if Mr. Rob Lloyd (ShelGame here on TurboDodgeForums)- (of former BoostButton.com) is still around at all? (Looking for someone to attempt to crack into one of my 84' TBI ECU's, reset the rev limit higher (or turn it off completely, since I would know when it layed over or needed shifting into high gear in 1,320 ft., either create a cal, or teach me to. It is no longer a street car, but a track only car period. (Permanent Off Road Use Only, from here on out).

 

[85lebaront2]

Randy (GLHS60) isn't the one who has it, it is one I built. As far as the vacuum advance, I believe if you use a 1983 2.2L or a 1.7L cap it should fit as that was the source for the distributor innards. I just verified what I had used. The distributor body is for a 1983 2.2L engine, the innards (shaft and advance mechanism along with the vacuum advance) are from a 1983 1.7L engine. I do still have the fixed HEP plate from the 2.2L if you don't want the vacuum advance. Here are some more pictures, the centrifugal advance mechanism, the fixed HEP plate and a view of the two, the variable HEP pickup sits a tiny bit higher. One idea, if you do not want the vacuum advance, but want the ability to "fine tune" the timing, you could use the variable HEP with a rod that can be adjusted with a fine thread nut and spring allowing once you document how many degrees a turn of the nut changes the initial timing quick changes without using a light.

I will gladly part with it as it doesn't play well with a T2 engine. FWIW, one of the options I was considering was an early Ford Escort distributor, it was a dual (centrifugal and vacuum) advance unit that mounted on the back end of the cam. It used the Ford TFI ignition module which can be modified to a remote mount as was done on the 1991 - 1997 trucks with the older body style.

As for Rob Lloyd. he sold all his stuff to Rob Mercer who doesn't seem to be doing anything with it. I actually have a Boost Button SBEC I want to eventually run in my LeBaron. You can buy an FTDI cable, I think it was Tim Meyer who builds them. There are some people still playing with the electronics, chromguy is one of them, he has a 1987 Sundance I believe, may be a Shadow that is his test mule for LM/PM, SMEC and SBEC development and testing.

 

[Dr. Johny Dodge]

the Mallory distributor for the 2.2's is long discontinued ..but ,you can still get that same distributor for the VW motor..thus you could mod that as described above and have the Mallory unit after all..

mallory distriburor for volkswagon - Google Search

this might be interesting..

123/TUNE-4-A-V-V, replaces Bosch distributors in VW and Volvo (USB version)

Programming your ideal advance curve? The 123/TUNE ignition enables you to do so. Just using a (shielded) USB cable and notebook. So if you want to tune your engine or have an engine that does not have a standard distributor available... the 123/TUNE can help you out. You can easily setup the...

www.123ignitionshop.com

 

[glrcng]

I apologize 85labaront2, of course I read and wrote to the wrong poster. Been up a while too long this week and last.

Work me up a reasonable price with shipping to zip 86401 (N.W., AZ), if you will please (no rush though, enjoy the long weekend first ok, I know I will), and do you have/take paypal?

I just locked up deposits on my forged pistons and the short block machine work that is finally underway, (purchased a couple of cams here from rampagefs this week that was, like this additional purchase pretty much unplanned, but much wanted, once I found out someone had exactly what I needed and wanted, and willing to part with them), and I have other parts on backorder with Jegs that may finally clear this week maybe or into next week that I have waited months now for, but I also have business collectibles due me for work already performed for customers but a few are slow payers sometimes.

So, let me collect a bit more to replenish my project bank account, and I will grab it from you middle of next week or so, if that is good with you? (Grandchild graduating this weekend so will be out of town for a long weekend and will be back next Wednesday). I will catch up with you then ok? I do appreciate you parting with your engineered creation though.
-----
Thank you also for the info on Rob Lloyd, Rob Mercer, chromeguy, and Tim Meyer. If I can get a working FTDI cable made, that would be great, (I would rather have someone already into and educated and who is familiar already on the actual coding used in these ECU's, and already does Cal's, but with what I read already (I am not a programmer, but I am a tech consultant and repair puters for a living for 25 yrs. and am surrounded by pro coders/programmers ( & have 3 sons who are), so not totally lost, as I have been mentoring FIRST High School Robotics for well over a decade, and some of our students, or fellow programmer mentors may just want to take on a challenging but quick project over the summer off season for me and with me.

It cannot be that much different on the 84' TBI than it is on the others, only fewer features without the Turbo boost items/and addl' sensors should equal fewer lines, and tables. I cannot imagine it would be that hard to find the rev limit flag, and simply change it.

Cracks me up, as I have been using the underhood diagnostic connector since 95' with a simple on/off rocker switch, to turn on the fuel pump circuit (key on after the 7 second prime period, at will), for my fuel ck sample valve already. (Also used it many times, driving with pump gas on the street, and race gas in Stock at the track...Oxygenators'/additives in pump gas will make you fail the fuel ck, but a quick wash of the fuel system with a small amount of diesel, instantly removes any oxygenators and other junk from the tank and lines, pump it out, followed by a 1/2 to 1 gal wash with pure race gas, pump that out, give it to anyone with a 2 cycle generator at the track, so waste not want not, and then fill with race gas, and guaranteed to pass the fuel check.

But, the diagnostic connector (on my 84' Daytona is not on the driver's side as per his diagram, but over on the passenger's side opposite of the diagram in my car (right in front of the plastic cover over the solenoid's for the fuel vapor recovery system. Same connector, same ECU in/ECU out/Grnd, etc.

 

[glrcng]

That is very interesting Dr. Johny Dodge! (But I do also like what he did w/ that hybrid 1 he re-engineered).

 

[glrcng]

I apologize 85labaront2, of course I read and wrote to the wrong poster. Been up a while too long this week and last.

Work me up a reasonable price with shipping to zip 86401 (N.W., AZ), if you will please (no rush though, enjoy the long weekend first ok, I know I will), and do you have/take paypal?

I just locked up deposits on my forged pistons and the short block machine work that is finally underway, (purchased a couple of cams here from rampagefs this week that was, like this additional purchase pretty much unplanned, but much wanted, once I found out someone had exactly what I needed and wanted, and willing to part with them), and I have other parts on backorder with Jegs that may finally clear this week maybe or into next week that I have waited months now for, but I also have business collectibles due me for work already performed for customers but a few are slow payers sometimes.

So, let me collect a bit more to replenish my project bank account, and I will grab it from you middle of next week or so, if that is good with you? (Grandchild graduating this weekend so will be out of town for a long weekend and will be back next Wednesday). I will catch up with you then ok? I do appreciate you parting with your engineered creation though.
-----
Thank you also for the info on Rob Lloyd, Rob Mercer, chromeguy, and Tim Meyer. If I can get a working FTDI cable made, that would be great, (I would rather have someone already into and educated and who is familiar already on the actual coding used in these ECU's, and already does Cal's, but with what I read already (I am not a programmer, but I am a tech consultant and repair puters for a living for 25 yrs. and am surrounded by pro coders/programmers ( & have 3 sons who are), so not totally lost, as I have been mentoring FIRST High School Robotics for well over a decade, and some of our students, or fellow programmer mentors may just want to take on a challenging but quick project over the summer off season for me and with me.

It cannot be that much different on the 84' TBI than it is on the others, only fewer features without the Turbo boost items/and addl' sensors should equal fewer lines, and tables. I cannot imagine it would be that hard to find the rev limit flag, and simply change it.

Cracks me up, as I have been using the underhood diagnostic connector since 95' with a simple on/off rocker switch, to turn on the fuel pump circuit (key on after the 7 second prime period, at will), for my fuel ck sample valve already. (Also used it many times, driving with pump gas on the street, and race gas in Stock at the track...Oxygenators'/additives in pump gas will make you fail the fuel ck, but a quick wash of the fuel system with a small amount of diesel, instantly removes any oxygenators and other junk from the tank and lines, pump it out, followed by a 1/2 to 1 gal wash with pure race gas, pump that out, give it to anyone with a 2 cycle generator at the track, so waste not want not, and then fill with race gas, and guaranteed to pass the fuel check.

But, the diagnostic connector (on my 84' Daytona is not on the driver's side as per his diagram, but over on the passenger's side opposite of the diagram in my car (right in front of the plastic cover over the solenoid's for the fuel vapor recovery system. Same connector, same ECU in/ECU out/Grnd, etc.

the Mallory distributor for the 2.2's is long discontinued ..but ,you can still get that same distributor for the VW motor..thus you could mod that as described above and have the Mallory unit after all..

mallory distriburor for volkswagon - Google Search

this might be interesting..

123/TUNE-4-A-V-V, replaces Bosch distributors in VW and Volvo (USB version)

Programming your ideal advance curve? The 123/TUNE ignition enables you to do so. Just using a (shielded) USB cable and notebook. So if you want to tune your engine or have an engine that does not have a standard distributor available... the 123/TUNE can help you out. You can easily setup the...

www.123ignitionshop.com

Oh my, that distributor has a usb port in the body of it, and they have a cableless bluetooth app (tech would freak if I had a laptop in the car or a phone, as it has a live drive dashboard on it and can adjust the curve while driving), lol. What will they think of next? Very interesting toy.
View attachment 280975

 

[85lebaront2]

I just looked up what the 1.7L dual advance one runs, it is a little under $50 exchange from Rock Auto. The 2.2L one is obscene, but I think it was either one from a junkyard or a friend. I built it for a Turismo 2.2 I wanted to race in SCCA. My late wife made me promise to get rid of the two Corvairs that I had bought, a 65 for my son and later a 64 for me. She hated Corvairs dating to her first husband buying a bit of a lemon after her sister and brother-in-law bought one. He had to go one better and get the 102 hp 1962 which had a history of issues with the engine. I wasn't able to get rid of them until after she died suddenly Dec 30 2005.

We had purchased the Turismo 2.2 for our son to replace the 65 Corvair Corsa he drove through high school and the more we dug into it the more we found. It had been converted to AC, but still had the air inlet for heater only, and no AC air inlet, it just pulled air from under the dash. Engine turned out to be the VIN 8 HP engine, same as the Omni GLH used, chrome valve cover and air filter top, unique PN on the spark computer. Engine burned oil, so for Christmas he got all the parts to rebuild it. On his way to a friend's one day he was run up against the Jersey Wall, two months later, the cross pin in the differential came out, momentarily locked the wheels then popped through the case leaving him with no gears. Finally his sister sold him the 1987 Horizon I had given her and the Turismo got parked in the back yard. He ended up with a V6, ex rental Mustang that had GT suspension and brakes. Horizon went back to his sister.

I wanted to run the Turismo in SCCA Sedan class after talking to a tech inspector whose son was running an Omni in Sedan class. I showed him the specs on the Turismo, the VIN 8 engine was 10 or 10.5:1 compression by decking the block and took a special timing belt. I built the distributor for that car.

Yes, I do take PayPal and still have the box the remanufactured 1.7L distributor came in so I can pack it, I also have a fixed HEP and the extra parts (2.2L distributor shaft, 1.7L driven gear and extra rotor). I can get a price for mailing it. I am lucky here, due to the location, between Chesapeake Bay and the Atlantic Ocean I can buy ethanol free premium at several stations. I only run that in my small engines and it is what I filled my LeBaron with.

 

[glrcng]

I have replenished, sry have been very busy, and now think I know what the final on the pistons, rings, and everything will be, so please look into shipping to zip 86401 N.W. Arizona, and PM me the total and PayPal address please at your leisure if you would, and ty for being patient. Something else once the rebuild bugs are out I can certainly test...especially if I go Holley on the ECU.

I will put it to good use for sure.

 

[glrcng]

I have replenished, sry have been very busy, and now think I know what the final on the pistons, rings, and everything will be, so please look into shipping to zip 86401 N.W. Arizona, and PM me the total and PayPal address please at your leisure if you would, and ty for being patient. Something else once the rebuild bugs are out I can certainly test...especially if I go Holley on the ECU.

I will put it to good use for sure.

Sry OP, that last post was for 85labaront2, he has the hybrid 1.7/2.2L one with the dual vacuum adv. And the hall effect dist w/ extra HEP.

Sent him a PM to get off your thread. TY.