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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So the other day I was on my way home from work with my 93' daytona 2.5 tbi. I get to a stop sign and then the damn thing just dies for no apparent reason. I figure I was outta gas because I was low and my gauge is off by a little bit. Seeing as I couldn't get it started it seemed to confirm my suspicion at the time. I also managed to lock my keys in the car when I went to get out for a ride from a friend to the gas station. Once I jimmied the lock and filled the car up it started like a champ. Two days go by and its just fine until this morning on my way to class. I get to a stop light at the top of a small hill and about 1 min or so after sitting there it died. Same problem, won't start like there isn't any fuel, after my roommate and I push it the rest of the way up the hill and off to the side of the highway I waited for it to cool down and rest a bit. While waiting I checked for codes. I got 12 (just replaced battery and alt a week ago) then I get a light then long pause then another light (20?) they both have long pauses before and after then I get 55 which I know is end of code listing. Anyone know what could be going on?? I know NAJ will be looking into this one I hope also seeing as he knows his stuff...


To recap:
Died + wouldn't start = out of gas + added gas + sitting to get gas = Starts
Died + wouldn't start = has gas + sitting to 'cool off' = Starts
Code 12 = new battery and Alt a week ago
Code 20? = ???
Code 55 = end of codes

Help would be most appreciated.
 

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The problem is you need to determine if the problem is fuel, spark or both when the problem is present.
When the condition is present you will have to remove the coil wire from the cap and hold 1/4" from ground and crank the engine.
Is spark present?
Watch the injector.
Is there fuel spray?
Perform a "wiggle" test on the HEP wiring to see if you can simulate the condition.
 

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Thats the problem with intermittants, you cannot diagnose it until it happens then you have to know which system(s) are creating the problem to narrow it down.
The HEP and its connector are in issue with intermittant stalling and the wiggle test may locate that.
Also if the controller loses the crank signal from the HEP it will not set a fault code.
BTW, there is no code 20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Car still randomly does the dying, however last night was the first time it wouldn't start right away... anyhow cleaned out under the HEP... look what I found.







BTW.. is there suppose to be rust under there? and I have no idea how all that crap got under there
 

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that looks like it has had a lot of water in it at some point all that crud looks like calcium from rain water.

the only reason I say that is it looks like the crap that is in an old trackter tire when the farmer uses a water calcium mix to keep it from frezzing in the winter. clean it out and use some dyelectric grease unter the hep and put some sealent around the dis cap to help keep the water out. good luck
 
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