[websnail]

Dear all,
sorry for bein ver elaborate on the story, I just do not want to leave out something that might point to the reason of what happened.

coming from Sunday sport I drove a bit sporty (through the city) and suddenly at the filling station the lady said my car is leaking. I thought. Oh no! It is the white pluggy thing leaking a bit off coolant again.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/attachments/turbo-dodge-help/47947d1334120296-help-getting-spare-while-states-white-plastic-pluggy-thing.jpg

But that was ok.

Then a few miles later at home I looked into the engine room and saw that on the side of the Turbo a round plug was popped out between crankcase and engine block. Form what I read that is the read crankshaft seal. The guys at my shop had redone my vac lines and resealed the camshaft cover.

After that I had oil pressure probs in idle and they flushed the channels in the engine and redid "something" to the lines. (being a bit opaque about it).

Since then pressure has been fine but maybe it is too much when in boost?

I am a still only a dabbler in the wonderful art of automobile mechanicsm so I searched through the forum and found this:

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f15/110495-rear-camshaft-seal-plug.html

So I fear that I have something similiar. Too much pressure in the engine becaue of a bad vac line setup. What else can it be?

I am giving the car to the shop of a friend of mine next door on Thursday. He is great but not very knowledgeable of US cars. To my US specialist I can not drive without the seal right now. Too much oil coming out.

Thanks soo much for your help!

 

[NAJ]

It may be caused by excess pressure but more than likely the cam cap is worn and just popped out.

Mine did the same thing driving to work and I lost 3 qts of oil in 1/2 mile before getting to work and seeing the smoke underhood.



Clean all the oil grease from the rear of cylinder head.
Coat the outside of the new cap with Permatex #2 or Permatex Aviation Cement and tap the new Cam Cap into place.

Felpro/Camshaft Seal (TCS45833) | 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby 4 Cylinders C 2.2L FI Turbo | AutoZone.com

http://www.permatex.com/products/au.../auto_Permatex_Form-A-Gasket_No_2_Sealant.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...tex_Aviation_Form-A-Gasket_No_3_Sealant_a.htm

 

[websnail]

Many thanks for the tip. Nice engine bay you have.

I still have the cap and a felpro seal fresh. Will this suffice? Or do i need a new cap also?

YOurs,
tom

 

[NAJ]

For $4 put in a new one.
The link for the cap I posted is the Seal/Cap.

 

[detobias]

I agree with NAJ's plan & process to fix it, it may just be an old one ?
but you say the guys at yur shop just did the 'camshaft cover'/valve cover gasket-
which *should* have also included the rear cam seal.
so it may be a new one, just installed without the proper cement/sealant ..
if that's the case, you could reuse it, if yu wish ,,.

but, based on your original description,
I suggest carefully checking the PCV system, to make sure the line from the PCV 'tee' is hooked up to the airbox ;
this line is what is supplying PVC flow (vacuum) during boosted operation

so if it is not hooked up,
during spirited (boosted) driving you will get higher crankcase pressure,
which may push out your oil dipstick, rear cam seal, increase leaking from cam cover gasket or cam seals, etc .. all bad..

get a new PCV valve too.
or clean and double-verify that yur current one is good, if that hasnt been replaced recently..

 

[websnail]

Thanks for your help,

why I was asking not to replace the cap is that I have a seal but no new cap. Getting stuff in germany can be kind of hard on a spot and I have a mech appointment tomorrow. Hope he knows his way around the vac line. I try to.

 

[92TurboTona]

does your car have a vac line diagram label in the engine bay, if it does not we can get you one, so you can give to the mechanic

 

[websnail]

If you have one I would be very obliged. I can then print it out and leave it with him.

Thanks alot.

Yours,

tom

 

[NAJ]

Did not even notice Germany and after seeing Berlin I may not have thought of Germany either, there is a Berlin N.J, 4 miles from me.

If you want wiring for the car I can supply you with that also.

89 DAYTONA T-2

 

[websnail]

A friend told me there are acutally 36 Berlins in the States

Luckily in my Fel Pro Engine Seal set I brought from DC last month there is a seal in there. Today, the mechanic thus just used VW white silicone to but in the old seal again. He said the bonding will be very strong but also said he was amazed how little pressure he needed to put the old seal back into place.

He is a friend of mine and normally very good, but not used to US cars and quite overworked :-(.
The US car shop I have close is known to be not good, and the other one a long drive away. I really need to start tinkering more myself.

I would love to also receive a wiring diagram.

Thanks to all of you. As always, great community. I hope one day to be able to answer myself all these questions as I like my Tona so much that it should be with me for years to come.

 

[NAJ]

PM sent.
If there is anything else you need/want let me know.

 

[websnail]

Re: Read Camshaft Seal popped off? Turbo II 89 Tona

Dear fellows,
my Daytona still has issues with overbost. When I get into boost it still tops out and then the whole engine/car starts to rattle and shudder. This issue has become more pronounced over time. and now it hard to even give boost when doing short burst of speed in the city limits.

I talked to some guys at a Turbospare center here in Berlin, Germany and they said this is the wastegate not doing its job propperly. Can this be? From researching this great forum here it sound like it could be the actuator.

They said I need a replacement but they need a picture and part number or my Turbo 2 wastegate and the actuator? From the effect it seems as if the system is "flapping/jittering under high boost" instead of letting out the pressure in a continous motion. does this make sense?

I would be very obliged if one of you could post pictures and part numbers.

Thanks so much in advance!

 

[detobias]

OK this is a new problem and should have a new thread to get the proper attention

first I suggest "pulling the codes" from the ECM;
which is the process of triggering the computer to tell you if it has detected any problems

see http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/362173-obd1-codes-retrieval-chrysler-1983-1995-a.html

 

[websnail]

Will do both. Thanks alot!