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Yeah, another one of these threads, but I can't seem to find the EXACT answers I'm looking for using the search. Anyhow, here's the deal, the car is a 1989 LeBaron GTC. It has a 2.2L Turbo II. Since I bought the car it has had serious vacuum issues. The boost gauge never goes over 5PSI and the vacuum is never more the 10PSI. I had it tested at a local Chrysler dealer and they told me that all the vacuum lines were cracked and needed to be replaced to the tune of $300. I ended up buying a block and lines from FWDP. I am getting ready to install it but I am left with a few questions before I do ahead with this. After studying the vacuum diagram I figure I need lines going to the following things:



1. Brake booster - heater controls.
2. Fuel pressure regulator.
3. Boost gauge.
4. MAP sensor.
5. Wastegate solenoid - wastegate - cruise control.

If I'm forgetting something let me know. Now here are my questions:

1. I am going to replace all of the intake plumbing. What do I do about the line going to the air cleaner from the PCV? Also, does the PCV need a line coming from the vacuum block or is there another spot on the intake manifold for that?

2. I want to eliminate the lines going from the throttle body to the vapor canister. Since the vapor canister has a fuel line going to it is there anything special I need to do beyond removing the vacuum lines and capping at the throttle body?

3. What about all these check valves, filters, orifices, and this barometer solenoid? What are all these for and do I need to keep them in place?

4. What size hose should I use for everything?

I'm sorry for all the questions but I was to get this done as clean looking as possible. I also need to still be able to pass emissions.

Thanks,
Clint
 

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1. look for my thread in the general section about custom catch can, or just do a search for that...you shouldnt just leave the line open because it can cause the dipstick to pop out under boost. filtering it and running a line to your intake track will help pull blow by out of the motor. the other side of the pcv rus to the nipple on the intake by runner 2.

2. i took the fuel line on the vapor cannister and drilled a small hole in the pass side fender, put a tiny sock filter on it and left it there, no fuel smell unless its really warm and im under the hood, even then, its not bad at all...

3. when i redid mine i didnt put any orifices in, but the check valves are in their original locations, as well as the baro selenoid.

4. I would reccomend getting one of the silicone hose pit pack from a vendor, it will ahve enough line to replace everything, probably more than one car even, and a variety of sizes.
 

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First before disconnecting the Fuel Vapor Canister check on your States Emission and Inspection Laws.In N.J on Non OBD2 Vehicles not only is the vehicle run on a Dyno but they open the Hood to check for Tampering.
Brake Booster Line goes to a Manifold Vacuum Source,it should not be hard to find it is 11/32 Hose.
The AC/Heater Vac Supply comes from the Nipple on the Brake Booster Check Valve and runs thru the Firewall where the Heater Hoses Enter.It may run to the Heater Control Valve first.
Baro Read Solenoid recieves Vacuum from a Manifold Vac Source,Map Sensor recieves Vac from the Baro Solenoid.The 3rd Nipple on the Baro Solenoid is a Vent and remains Open.The Baro Solenoid supplies the Controller with Barometric Pressure Readings for Fuel and Spark Control.
Fuel Pressure Regulator recieves Vac supply from the same source as the Baro.The Factory uses a Plastic Vacuum Block with 1 or 2 Hoses in and all of the other lines out.
Wastegate Solenoid recieves Vac from the same source and other line runs to Wastegate,3rd is a Vent.
Boost Gauge also recieves Vac from the same source and runs thru the Firewall on the R/S.
Be sure to keep all One Way Check Valves and Orifices.When my lines broke I Spliced the Plastic Lines behind the Valve Cover with 5/32 Vacuum Line and used Small Black Wire Ties to Crimp the ends for tight,secure connections.
I reused the Plastic Lines where they run to Solenoid Connections and thru the Firewall.
PCV I am not sure about if you are going to alter the Factory Setup and the Cruise I will have to look into.
The whole key is to take your time,you can go nuts reading and following the Diagrams and then trying to translate that to under the hood.
Hope this is helpful.
 

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my apologies...forgot the emmisions part, being from good old michigan....
 

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I don't know why you want to disconnect the vapor canister. I don't think it has any effect on performance at all. It just keep raw gas fumes out of the air. Bill
 

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Well let's see what we can come up with lol.

Having caps every where is just going to like trashy, just me .02cents.

My vacuum setup constist of mainly hard emission lines, I did some reading and the thoughts behind it aren't hard: brake down, less flexing:thumb: more accurate pressure readings.

Now on to the questions:D

CHANGED THIS;)
Brake booster - heater controls. - Keep them in there factory setting
1. Fuel pressure regulator.
2. Boost gauge.
3. MAP sensor.
4. Wastegate solenoid - wastegate - cruise control.

If I'm forgetting something let me know. Now here are my questions:

1. I am going to replace all of the intake plumbing. What do I do about the line going to the air cleaner from the PCV? Also, does the PCV need a line coming from the vacuum block or is there another spot on the intake manifold for that?

- Catch can or keep it factory. Are you using a 1piece intake or 2piece intake? both have a vacuum port for the PCV vacuum source - LMK which you have and I can post a pic of it.

2. I want to eliminate the lines going from the throttle body to the vapor canister. Since the vapor canister has a fuel line going to it is there anything special I need to do beyond removing the vacuum lines and capping at the throttle body?

My TB is the vacuum source for the boost controller and BOV. Caps look like sh-t on any port;)

3. What about all these check valves, filters, orifices, and this barometer solenoid? What are all these for and do I need to keep them in place?

Keep the barometer and run it from the vacuum block

4. What size hose should I use for everything?

Varies... I suggest using hard emmission lines more then silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright, so I revised things a little here:

1. Brake booster - heater controls.
2. Fuel pressure regulator.
3. Boost gauge.
4. Barometer solenoid - MAP sensor.
5. Wastegate solenoid - wastegate - cruise control.

So, now I just leave the barometer in place. In response:

1. I have a one piece manifold. So, what if I had a nipple welded onto the intake pipe? Or do I just need to do a catch can because there is no way I am leaving the intake plumbing stock.

2. I think two caps on the TB will look better than the rat's nest that's in there now. To each his own I suppose.

3. Why do you not suggest silicone lines?
 

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Alright, so I revised things a little here:

1. Brake booster - keep it on its own vacuum source heater controls. also keep this on on the brake booster
2. Fuel pressure regulator. :thumb:
3. Boost gauge. :thumb:
4. Barometer solenoid - MAP sensor. :thumb:
5. Wastegate solenoid - wastegate - cruise control. :thumb

So, now I just leave the barometer in place. In response: :thumb:

1. I have a one piece manifold. So, what if I had a nipple welded onto the intake pipe? Or do I just need to do a catch can because there is no way I am leaving the intake plumbing stock.

Catch can is the way to go then. Unless you want your dipstick to eject lol

2. I think two caps on the TB will look better than the rat's nest that's in there now. To each his own I suppose.

It's how you plan the routing of the hoses wheither or not it will look like a rats nest. If I can remember this part tomorrow when I get a few pics of stock location to keep I will do alittle rough draft of what i mean:thumb:

3. Why do you not suggest silicone lines?

Silicone flexs, which can lead to some pressure drops(not much, not still some of these lines travel a good distance). Hard lines won't it will provide a more constent(sp? its late lol) pressure through out the whole line gives the sensors, FPR, etc a better source to operate from.
 

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If you have the PCV system in place why would you need a catch can? There is way more vac suction coming through the PCV system than the Turbo Intake line ( I would assume), stock there is vac being pulled from the valve cover into the intake thru PCV which would pull just as much air from the air box or open air)

That is why I am just going to cut the 5/8" pipe from the nipple on valve cover in half, JB weld some new barbs on and attach a 5/8" breather.
 

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Tonatom said:
If you have the PCV system in place why would you need a catch can? There is way more vac suction coming through the PCV system than the Turbo Intake line ( I would assume), stock there is vac being pulled from the valve cover into the intake thru PCV which would pull just as much air from the air box or open air)

That is why I am just going to cut the 5/8" pipe from the nipple on valve cover in half, JB weld some new barbs on and attach a 5/8" breather.
because you run from the catch can to another nipple placed in the turbo inlet track. your breather idea will work, but you stand a GOOD chance of having the dipstick pop out under boost, and having oil spray everywhere. take it from someone that has been there done that :rolleyes: that 5/8 tube ran to the airbox stock, and thus, had a vacuum pulled on it to help pull the pressure from the crankcase more efficiently and thouroughly than just venting it to the air...and the catch can will collect the oil that would otherwise be pulled into the turbo/intercooler/intake/engine. thus being cleaner, and better for the engine.
 

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the air comp. filter looks like a good replacement for a catch can. if you dont mind me asking, where could i pick one of those up at? i think i might borrow your idea:D
 
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