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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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I've heard that the big rear disc brake setups, that were available on the 90's Daytonas, have become hard to find, so I decided to find a way to convert the rear drum brake, and small disc setups, to something that is more available. What I stumbled upon was that turbo PT Cruisers and Neons share the same rear brake setups. I am posting this info with the hope that this thread will end up being where others also post their conversions.

The turbo PT's, and Neons, used solid 10.5" rotors, similar to the late 80's Daytonas that had solid rotors with internal e-brakes. They also have a one piece hub and bearing setup, which I like better than the older multi bearing design, of the Daytonas and Lasers. The calipers even seem to be the same as the late 80's solid internal e-brake rotor setups.

I had previously converted a solid 10.5" rotor backplate to be a vented 11" setup, like the 90's. Unfortunately, it required a lot of machining, which made it impractical. Here is the thread that shows that conversion, at post #20:

I didn't actually do the PT conversion, since I already have two viable setups, but wish that I had thought of it sooner, since the PT design is simple and almost a direct bolt on conversion, which should be readily available for several more years. Most of the parts are still available as new, so you really only need to locate the rear spindles and mounting plate from a PT Cruiser, or Neon, and buy the rest as new.

I also haven't decided what e-brake cable will be the easiest to use. The PT's cable uses the same rear design as our cars did, but I don't know what the front looks like. I do think that the PT's backplate will require the PT's cable, because the backplate mount looks to be longer than the Daytona's. You will also need an adjustable proportioning valve, as I doubt that the original prop valve will work.

I'll post pics of my setup, but for now, here is a YouTube video of it:

Keep in mind that I pulled the parts from a rusted out PT Cruiser, since I don't plan to actually use them. I did buy a new rotor, but they can be had for only $16, so I have about $50 into this conversion. I can't promise that it will work, but I can't see any reason that it won't. Don't be afraid to add your comments, either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
This pic shows the PT and Neon 10.5" rear rotors, with the backing plate and internal e-brake shoes. I forgot to mention that the bolt pattern is the same as the Daytona's, so you should be able to run your original wheels.

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This is the assembled e-brake and hub.

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Same setup with the 10.5" rotor.

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One piece hub with bearings.

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Spindle and backplate.

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These compare the Daytona and PT spindles.

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The PT hub is spaced 92mm from the axle mount.

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The Daytona's hub is spaced 81mm from the axle.

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The Daytona wheel wells are huge, so the extra spacing shouldn't be a problem unless you are running a thick wheel spacer. Even then, you could always go to a different wheel, with the needed spacing. Another option would be to remove the nub that is between the PT spindle and axle. The PT's axle has a hole to locate the spindle, but the Daytona does not. This would give you about 5mm more spacing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is the tool that I made to open the spindle's bolt holes. You don't need to remove very much, maybe 1/16", from each hole.

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The bottom plate gets tapped for 2 - 8mm bolts, which sandwich everything together.

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I used a 27/64th drill to open the holes, but you could also just use a round file.

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After machining.

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The backplate holes are large enough that they don't need any modifications.

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There is a clearance issue with the axle mount. The mount needs to have some material ground away, so that the cable's mount does not interfere with it.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was going to create a new thread, but decided just to add this info to the rear brake thread. I've been playing around with the idea of converting the Laser/Daytona front brakes to the PT Cruiser/Neon's 11" setup. Initially, it looked like the PT's steering knuckle was not going to work, because its tie rod mounting location was farther from axle. This weekend, I stumble upon a different PT that had knuckles with different tie rod geometry, that match the Laser/Daytonas.

I don't plan to actually convert my cars, since I already have the larger 11" rotor setups, but this might be an easy way for someone else to do it. You would have to upgrade the front struts to the Neon aftermarket type, but everything else, (knuckle, rotors, calipers, and hub) would just be a direct swap.

I'm working on the video, and will post more when I get time, but I just wanted to put this out there to gauge the interest.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I was going to create a new thread, but decided just to add this info to the rear brake thread. I've been playing around with the idea of converting the Laser/Daytona front brakes to the PT Cruiser/Neon's 11" setup. Initially, it looked like the PT's steering knuckle was not going to work, because its tie rod mounting location was farther from axle. This weekend, I stumble upon a different PT that had knuckles with different tie rod geometry, that match the Laser/Daytonas.

I don't plan to actually convert my cars, since I already have the larger 11" rotor setups, but this might be an easy way for someone else to do it. You would have to upgrade the front struts to the Neon aftermarket type, but everything else, (knuckle, rotors, calipers, and hub) would just be a direct swap.

I'm working on the video, and will post more when I get time, but I just wanted to put this out there to gauge the interest.
I'm sorry to report that the front conversion will not work. What I thought was a Neon / PT Cruiser's steering knuckle turned out to be from a Dodge Caliber / Jeep Compass, which use spindles with a 4.5" bolt pattern, not our 4". To make things worse, their axles are thicker than the Neon / PT's, so there would need to be a lot of fabricating.
 

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If I'm understanding this correctly, the PT/Neon spindle will bolt to our existing axle with minimal modification and space the wheel further out by 11mm???

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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If I remember, the steering arm is in the wrong location for our tie rods to mount to.
I meant the rear spindle, not the front. I like the idea of the modular hub/bearing vs. what our cars are set up as.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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If I remember, the steering arm is in the wrong location for our tie rods to mount to.
LaserDad-

To do the conversion, you will need the knuckle/strut assy. I currently have a complete PT/GT front/rear assembly going into my Rampage. I do have to drill an extra hole for the strut mount, as the PT has 3 studs, and the L-Body has two. Have not worked with the G-Body stuff. As far as the tie rod mount, they will also bolt on, but there are three different knuckle designs must be aware of. I found this article on PT Forums detailing the differences -

PT Knuckle Info

I meant the rear spindle, not the front. I like the idea of the modular hub/bearing vs. what our cars are set up as.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Not sure of the G-Body, but just a month ago I had the PT spindle apart and the L-body apart, they are just a few mm difference, so they will not bolt up. My plan was to weld/fill in three of the holes, drill and tap for the PT spindle pattern on the L-body spindle mount. Some modification to the brake lines are required too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I meant the rear spindle, not the front. I like the idea of the modular hub/bearing vs. what our cars are set up as.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I agree that the singular hub/bearing setup is preferable. From what I've found, the only negative is that you will have a solid rear rotor, instead of the vented type. Still, that's much better than living with drum brakes and all of the individual pieces for the hub.

If you do the conversion, please post it and be sure to put a link to it, from this thread.
 
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