I've heard that the big rear disc brake setups, that were available on the 90's Daytonas, have become hard to find, so I decided to find a way to convert the rear drum brake, and small disc setups, to something that is more available. What I stumbled upon was that turbo PT Cruisers and Neons share the same rear brake setups. I am posting this info with the hope that this thread will end up being where others also post their conversions.
The turbo PT's, and Neons, used solid 10.5" rotors, similar to the late 80's Daytonas that had solid rotors with internal e-brakes. They also have a one piece hub and bearing setup, which I like better than the older multi bearing design, of the Daytonas and Lasers. The calipers even seem to be the same as the late 80's solid internal e-brake rotor setups.
I had previously converted a solid 10.5" rotor backplate to be a vented 11" setup, like the 90's. Unfortunately, it required a lot of machining, which made it impractical. Here is the thread that shows that conversion, at post #20:
I have decided to start posting pics of the build I started on in 2012. I haven't posted, because there wasn't much progress, until lately. I will apologize if I post too many pics, but feel that too many is better than too few. OK, let's start at the beginning. In 2012, I decided that I...
I didn't actually do the PT conversion, since I already have two viable setups, but wish that I had thought of it sooner, since the PT design is simple and almost a direct bolt on conversion, which should be readily available for several more years. Most of the parts are still available as new, so you really only need to locate the rear spindles and mounting plate from a PT Cruiser, or Neon, and buy the rest as new.
I also haven't decided what e-brake cable will be the easiest to use. The PT's cable uses the same rear design as our cars did, but I don't know what the front looks like. I do think that the PT's backplate will require the PT's cable, because the backplate mount looks to be longer than the Daytona's. You will also need an adjustable proportioning valve, as I doubt that the original prop valve will work.
I'll post pics of my setup, but for now, here is a YouTube video of it:
Keep in mind that I pulled the parts from a rusted out PT Cruiser, since I don't plan to actually use them. I did buy a new rotor, but they can be had for only $16, so I have about $50 into this conversion. I can't promise that it will work, but I can't see any reason that it won't. Don't be afraid to add your comments, either way.