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Discussion Starter #1
Changing the real engine seal this weekend, picked up a mopar seal and some mopar anerobic sealer...do i need anything else? Do i have to replace any gaskets or anything when re-installing the tranny?
-mark
 

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Discussion Starter #2
i just want to make sure i have all the parts before the weekend if i have to get anything from the dealer...thats the drawback of doing work on the weekend!
anyone?
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You should be all set. Remember to wirebrush the old loctite off the flywheel bolts before applying fresh loctite.

-Chuck James
 

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gakali said:
I would replace the axle seals in the tranny at the same time.
I agree. If an auto, you might want to consider the front seal also. The differential is also easily accessable at this point, pin retainers might be something to think about. :bang head Sorry, just seems there's so many different things to do if you don't draw the line somewhere. :D
 

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If the axle seals were not leaking in the first place, I wouldn't touch them unless they have a visual defect in them. Take your time with the seal as a quick job will only make your troubles alot worse in the long run with taking the trans. out again.
Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys, i appreciate it. The rear seal is leaking after a new engine install, and the axle seal's are new as well. Thank you for all the help!:)
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Mark,

I saw you mentioned the anaerobic sealer, so I thought I'd pass along this bit of advice just in case you haven't heard of this already.

If your new seal has a metal surface where it presses into the aluminum carrier, be sure to put some anerobic sealer on the outside of the seal before pressing it into the carrier. A common problem is that this step is skipped and the seal itself will spin with the crank and oil will leak out between the seal and the carrier (ask me how I know :bang head ).

Another option is the FelPro Teflon rear main seal that has rubber on this surface so the seal doesn't spin, and doesn't require the anerobic. Autostoned usually stocks this part.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
csxtra, thankyou, i appreciate your help! I am going to go old school, and use the anerobic sealer, but i fear it was not used in the original install of the rear seal, thus causing a slight leak! Bastard! Regarless, i'm going to repair it this weekend, and now i know what the anerobic sealer is for!
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hey if you are leaking oil make sure the freez plug thats in the oil galley is not leaking cause you can only get to it with trans out/ i,m going out know to remove and go up to wear my inlaw father works to get a tread plug and tap to install. i can post with size/ mine looked dry but i had some much oil back there/ but i presser washed it so it was hard to tell.ALS
 

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thanks ALS, i have been thinking about that freeze plug as well. I will check that before i replace the rear seal. If you have ANY pics or info during your job please post them, i would be eternaly greatful! Thank you very far in advance!
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i did mine sat. but i did not like the mess of tapping treads / i hope i don,t have a melt down/ i will get the tread size/ when you have the plug uot you can see a feel hole must be to the mains the shorter the plug the beter fit i think.3/8ntp is what the tap said/ i posted on this before but no one replied, so i done it my way :bash: ALS
 
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