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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all

I have the oportunity to rebuilt my Spirit R/T 134k miles. California car. no rust,accidents. interior 9/10. I have low compression in # 3 & 4 cyclinders. #3 holds 30 psi, while #4 goes to 30 psi then drops to zero.
I was told by the previous owner that he had the head re-worked and put in a copper gasket(questined till disassemble). I have not disassembled the motor , and i do have a shopping list @ FWD.

My question is : I know the heads can crack between 3 & 4. should i go for it and spend the money with complete top end including turbo and ECU.

2nd question. The short block 134k miles , is that alot for the 2.2?
which i will order short block from FWD since Rebuild shops in my area will want to build it how they think instead of how the 2.2 should be built(again FWD Performance, is the right direction).

3rd question the camshafts are in the budget but do i need them?
stage 1 but i have to keep california smog in mind. passed last smog with flying colors already have 2.5 exhaust , stock CAT and common aftermarket muffler.

I do not have water in oil! and still starts

If i dont sell it , i will build and keep for my 2 yr old to turn 16yrs old.
Input from fellow T3 owners welcome.
 

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Rebuild it! You never know it really could be speical some day, Mostly giving a youngster a classic preformance car for the happy 16th is a great gift!
 

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Hi,

I rebuilt my TIII 35K ago and at the time it had 165K on it. the cylinders were slightly hour glassed so I had the Machine shop through NAPA bore the block out to the next size over and purchased new pistons from FWD Performance. At the same time I had the Machine shop go over the crank and also fill the oil squirter for the balance shafts, because I took out the whole assembly. Not sure why you would need to get a new short block unless there's a problem with yours, find your local machine shop....

On the top end I already had a cracked head so I had Absolute Machine weld it up and do a 3-angle valve job. If the head isn't cracked there's nothing to fix and I would also leave the core plugs alone. If your going to rebuild have the machine shop do the valve job for you.

I'm not sure about the CA smog junk, in PA I didn't have to worry about it. My cams were pitted a touch so I had Wallace Wallace white at Lone wolf performance do the grgrind and also had him coat the head journals and the cams to prolong their life.

Hope that helps some.
Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,

I rebuilt my TIII 35K ago and at the time it had 165K on it. the cylinders were slightly hour glassed so I had the Machine shop through NAPA bore the block out to the next size over and purchased new pistons from FWD Performance. At the same time I had the Machine shop go over the crank and also fill the oil squirter for the balance shafts, because I took out the whole assembly. Not sure why you would need to get a new short block unless there's a problem with yours, find your local machine shop....

On the top end I already had a cracked head so I had Absolute Machine weld it up and do a 3-angle valve job. If the head isn't cracked there's nothing to fix and I would also leave the core plugs alone. If your going to rebuild have the machine shop do the valve job for you.

I'm not sure about the CA smog junk, in PA I didn't have to worry about it. My cams were pitted a touch so I had Wallace Wallace white at Lone wolf performance do the grgrind and also had him coat the head journals and the cams to prolong their life.

Hope that helps some.
Bryan
The help is much appreciated. and im looking to save the rare TIII and build a strong steet machine. Cant bring myself to sell it . I was thinking of getting a new head and have a spare on the shelf. If i tear down the short block then I am left with the unknown of if it was done right. I will most likely go all out and get it done right the first time (FWD Performance.) I did the math and getting the parts to rebuild original short block VS buy FWD short block and i come out ahead with FWD plus i dont have to wait for orginal rebuild.
Bottom line TIII Rebuild for XMAS.
Going .020 over may conflict Calif Smog by having to do excessive tuning.
and paying the core charge gives me a spare engine in the garage to rebuild at leisure.
Expensive but worth it , not like there are TIII in junk yards on a daily basis.
I post update once head is off vehicle.
Again thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I finally got around to working on the TIII, I took the plunge and ordered from FWDPerformance , New Head , Lifters, Misc gaskets, also ordered new motor mounts from Polybushings (WOW). I work in sales for a Dealership, so it has been quite fun explaining to the mechanics the TIII . They all have had opinions but dont come close to what the TIII has to offer, execept the mechanic who is doing the work, He has worked at Dodge at was jazzed to get his hands on the TIII.
Number three Cyclinder has crack(s) but the head has been ported and the retainers and springs look great. I am so glad i keep the TIII, My Wife still says she wont drive it cause it does 70+ by third gear.
I am having a delima with the CV Axles
I need to know if i am ordering the right ones, I know that if i have the orginals they have a stamped 7 digit part # starting with 4. any help will be appreciated.
YES the Head is going to be up for sell(
 
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