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Symptom: driver side caliper pad got worn down and exceeded wear limit of pad, resulting in and metal to metal contact on rotor which created a channel; the heat may have caused the piston to seize up, so it is difficult to remove the caliper with getting the piston pushed back. I watched a few youtube videos, one said to grind the lip of the rotor which is locking the pad and caliper in place. The groove might not be deep enough to allow the rotor to be turned safely within the wear limit. My 1987 manual has specs for the G-body (only 1987 with rear brakes provided by Chrysler), where the Minimum Allowable Thickness is 7.40 mm (which includes the Allow for Wear limit of .76mm). I don't have a very good picture showing the wear limit of my rotor (attached), but it might be 13.20mm.

It turns out you have to search for an 1988 Daytona with rear disc brakes in order to find parts. Local mechanics and auto parts stores were clueless about the story behind the 1987 CSX (Shelby was able to get an advance order from Mopar to get the 750 sets he needed to install rear disc brakes on the 1987 CSX).

I found everything I needed on Rock Auto except a pair of calipers (new boots for the guide pins which are in good shape, two matching rotors, and two caliper repair kits matching my Kelsey-Hayes calipers). Beware: Rock Auto now only ships to cities with no sales tax. The nearby city of Erie has no sales tax (I live in the Boulder, CO area), so I paid for a P.O. Box and shipped my deliveries to my P.O. box.

Now that I have the caliper repair kit, rotors, and new pads, I can now use a pry bar or screwdriver to push the pad hard enough to get the stuck piston to retract. Since I need to release any hydraulic pressure when pushing on the piston, I will open the bleeder valve and catch the flow in my vacuum brake bleeder bottle which is designed for this (and put it in the same pan I use for oil changes). I already tried this, but as I didn't have the parts yet I was hesitant to do damage to the piston boot, so I parked it a month ago. Any tips on getting a stuck piston to free up would be appreciated. I have a big rubber mallet, but don't want to break the caliper body.
 

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the 87 CSX rear disks are prototypes of the 89 rears. The 87 and 88 rears on Daytona Z used the wedge style caliper for the e-brake and thus no rear brakes shoes. The 89+ solid rears parts work well on the CSX just remember that the caliper pins had 10mm caliper pins and the 89+ are 8mm.
I use 89+ stuff on mine.
Here is a good reference post
 
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