Haven't done a how too in a while. So I took some photos and so I could do a write up on rebuilding your turbo.
We start by breaking loose the bolts. Notice the angle I am holding the 1/2" wrench at. By using a 1/2" your tight on the bolt, then at this angle you are pinging the bolt loose. I RARELY break a turbo bolt doing it this way or round one.
Some bolts as easy and 2 of them I use to help spread the castings. This bolt and the one 180 degrees away you add pressure to, then smack the turbine. Under pressure you can knock the turbo lose a lot easier. Be careful to push the turbine off evenly as you can not to hit the turbine wheel.
I get a oil drain tub, one with the little hole in the center and put it on the work bench. This is for cleaning and not getting crud all over the place. The cleaner the better, not for taking it a part but for putting it back together without getting anything bad into the turbo.
Now that the big stuff is cleaner, take off the compressor finally, then more cleaning.
At this stage you are putting the turbine into a vise to get the nut off. Don't put the turbine blades against the vise, tighten the vise at least a 1/16" clearance. Then look for the threads, Turbonetics turbos look just like the T3 but are left hand threads. After the nut is removed the compressor comes off and the turbine comes out. Some times real light tapping is needed to get the compressor loose.
Then your cleaning again, there is a seal ring on the turbine to come off, break it and use it to scrub the ring groove clean. Clean and remove the internal parts under the compressor.
Bust out the rebuild kit, replace the bearings and clean as you go. Add the new bearings with gear oil on the whole bearing in and out.
Clean the compressor, don't remove the "saw blade" spring. The carbon seal is here, it pops out but the spring is held in with a plate that needs turning. Again clean it all down well. When replacing this get it wet with gear oil. If this seal spins dry for any amount of time you get intercooler oil mess from it leaking. Be careful not to break the carbon on install there is an O ring that makes it tougher.
This is how the thrust plate should look and the carbon seal back, wet with oil again. After this point you get the turbine shaft wet with oil and slide the compressor on with nut. Tighten the nut in the vise again to 25 in lbs. When unbolting or bolting the compressor down take care to hold the tool right. Tilting the tool can bend the turbine shaft and the turbine is trash. Have some one hold the turbo to help you during break loose and tighting of the nut.
Always add new bolts to the turbine. I use coper slicone to use as a thread lock and rust deterant. This photo is for clocking reasons, to get the turbine on right.
This photo is to help clock the compressor right, the waste gate line should point at the waste gate flap.
That is about it basically, not too tough. A carb is harder to rebuild BTW. The key is getting that finesse down with unbolting the turbo.
A good idea to build new lines or buy them, never add a new turbo with an old oil feed line.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/395018-making-your-own-ss-garret-lines.html
We start by breaking loose the bolts. Notice the angle I am holding the 1/2" wrench at. By using a 1/2" your tight on the bolt, then at this angle you are pinging the bolt loose. I RARELY break a turbo bolt doing it this way or round one.
Some bolts as easy and 2 of them I use to help spread the castings. This bolt and the one 180 degrees away you add pressure to, then smack the turbine. Under pressure you can knock the turbo lose a lot easier. Be careful to push the turbine off evenly as you can not to hit the turbine wheel.
I get a oil drain tub, one with the little hole in the center and put it on the work bench. This is for cleaning and not getting crud all over the place. The cleaner the better, not for taking it a part but for putting it back together without getting anything bad into the turbo.
Now that the big stuff is cleaner, take off the compressor finally, then more cleaning.
At this stage you are putting the turbine into a vise to get the nut off. Don't put the turbine blades against the vise, tighten the vise at least a 1/16" clearance. Then look for the threads, Turbonetics turbos look just like the T3 but are left hand threads. After the nut is removed the compressor comes off and the turbine comes out. Some times real light tapping is needed to get the compressor loose.
Then your cleaning again, there is a seal ring on the turbine to come off, break it and use it to scrub the ring groove clean. Clean and remove the internal parts under the compressor.
Bust out the rebuild kit, replace the bearings and clean as you go. Add the new bearings with gear oil on the whole bearing in and out.
Clean the compressor, don't remove the "saw blade" spring. The carbon seal is here, it pops out but the spring is held in with a plate that needs turning. Again clean it all down well. When replacing this get it wet with gear oil. If this seal spins dry for any amount of time you get intercooler oil mess from it leaking. Be careful not to break the carbon on install there is an O ring that makes it tougher.
This is how the thrust plate should look and the carbon seal back, wet with oil again. After this point you get the turbine shaft wet with oil and slide the compressor on with nut. Tighten the nut in the vise again to 25 in lbs. When unbolting or bolting the compressor down take care to hold the tool right. Tilting the tool can bend the turbine shaft and the turbine is trash. Have some one hold the turbo to help you during break loose and tighting of the nut.
Always add new bolts to the turbine. I use coper slicone to use as a thread lock and rust deterant. This photo is for clocking reasons, to get the turbine on right.
This photo is to help clock the compressor right, the waste gate line should point at the waste gate flap.
That is about it basically, not too tough. A carb is harder to rebuild BTW. The key is getting that finesse down with unbolting the turbo.
A good idea to build new lines or buy them, never add a new turbo with an old oil feed line.
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f62/395018-making-your-own-ss-garret-lines.html