Yeah. It was on zero. then i started filling. It went up to red, and it still wouldn't kick on. As for how long it's been empty, at least since october. I don't know because that's when i bought the car.
Add refrigerant until your gauge reads full (do not overfill). Pressure switches won't allow the compressor clutch to engage if even if the system is low on refrigerant. It's always best to have the system checked for leaks, vacuumed down and then refilled (a small amount of debri and moisture in the system is obviously bad). You could try jumping the pressure switch (jump the switch connector with a piece of wire) and see if the compressor cycles.
where may i find that switch. I know nothing about AC systems. I just know i had it quite full, pretty far in the red. I'm pretty sure if the compressor kicks on that'll relieve pressure. it did it in the daytona
Have you checked if the compressor is locked up? These compressors like to do that. I know forsure the GLHS's just locked up last summer. Drop the belt and see if the sucker will turn. Also check wiring to the Compressor.
I'll check to see if i can spin it tomorrow. I have to go to work in a couple hours so i don't have too much time to experiment today. Maybe while i'm driving, the lubricant that went in with the coolant can loosen it up
Could be something simple like the fuse, or the A/C relay. Make sure you only have the low pressure valve open & not the high pressure side. High side open= EXTREMELY dangerous. An entirely empty system should hold about 30 ozs., including the a/c oil.
First, when retrofitting only fill the system to 80% with R134A of what the R12 capacity was.
Electrically start by checking for power at the A/C compressor connector DB/BK wire with the connector unplugged and A/C on. Then check to see if the ground(BK wire) is ok. If power and ground are ok your problem is in the clutch coil,if the compressor was locked up the clutch would still engage.
If no power is present start at the A/C pressure switch (on the Expansion Valve, aka.H-Valve on the firewall R/S).Check for power on the DB/OR wire with the A/C on(power is supplied from the A/C-Heater control unit).If power is present jump the pressure switch connector and see if the compressor engages,if so replace the pressure switch. If the switch checks ok check for power at the A/C clutch cutout relay(L/S fender),Power in is on the DB wire and the BN wire, power out to the compressor is on the DB/BK wire, the ground side of the relay is controlled by the LM on DB/OR wire on the Blue connector cavity #3.If you have power at 2 sources and ground is ok but no output replace the relay.
If power is ok and no ground you will need a scanner to see if the controller is seeing the request for A/C.
If you can get ahold of a scanner you can actuate the relay thru the scanner.
Fault code 33 is for the A/C clutch relay circuit.
If TPS voltage is too high you will not get A/C, the controller disengages the compressor thru the relay at WOT conditions.
I've learned waaay too much about these systems last summer.
There are a couple of relays in the system. I don't remember which is which, but they sit on the driver side fender. It could be that the AC clutch is failed or the pressure switch is gone. The relays are NS1 from Ma.
When refilling one of these with the new stuff, I've found the best point is to fill it so that the clutch cycles at around 2500rpm. I've followed the charts and all that stuff and NOTHING worked until I got it filled right were it would cycle at 2500rpm. I don't remember who told me that, but it was a Godsend.
I hope you figure out what is wrong so that you can get to this point.
I've also had a compressor go bad. It was on an older car. Thing freaking locked up while I was cruising down the highway. It scared the s__t out of me.
Oh, and if you decide to tear into the compressor, these things are really cool. This style of compressor was designed during WWII to provide enough hydraulic pressure in big airplanes to control the flight surfaces.
i know this is a really old thread but i just had to say thank you for it i was having the same problem and this just saved me like 300$ on a new compressor i got a/c in my car for the first time in 5 years and i dont know how long before that lol
I have dodge caliber 2009 recently i replaced the compressor. I think we have messed with the high line.
The problem i am facing is that compressor is not kicking in. Its like when i start the car it give the volts to compressor only for 2 to 3 seconds compressor tries to turn on but unable to start and then the electricity disappears from the compressor. Any idea whats happening. My guy also changed the high pressure sensor but it only worked for 2 days....
You may have a faulty compressor or there is an issue in the system and the engine controller will not allow you to have A/C.
In todays cars you do not say "I want", when you turn something on like the A/C you are making a request, if the engine controller determines everything engine related is as it should be it will honor your request, if not you do not get A/C.
1)What was the original problem that led you to believe you needed to replace the compressor?
2)After compressor replacement was the system evacuated and recharged with the proper amount of refrigerant?
3)Are any fault codes stored in memory?
4)When you connect a scanner and turn on the A/C does the engine controller see your request for A/C.
5)What are the static high and low pressures?
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