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Your idea will work.

Many use the pre common block water pump and housing on common block Engines.

The pump housings are different not just the pump, bolt pattern is different.

If you have the pre-pump you must also have the pre-pump housing.

The pre-pumps use a paper gasket between the pump and housing.

Commonblocks use a molded rubber type gasket.

In this case it must turn like the pre common block.

Hopefully we are both clear with this discussion.

Anyone following feel free to confirm or not.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Glhs60
Yes , now it´s clear .
I will do it .
Thanks a lot for your help
Jiri
 

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Discussion Starter #23
My story with LEBARON continues. The reason of overheating of the engine was the cylinder head, which is after complete repair now. I follow the guide on minimopar.net , but I still need some advice how to complete cylinder head and the engine together. There was Ajusa 10108800 gasket (aftermarket style) used during the first repair (which end up with failure). I learned much from
General Chrysler Information
about the head gasket. There was lot of new things, which I did not know before.
The question is - what cylinder head gasket (according enclosed photos) should I buy and use? Cross drilled style , MOPAR 5281065 or different one? Is it possible to buy such cylinder head gasket somewhere in USA ? Is it suitable for my engine?
I buy mostly on RockAuto eshop, but the offers only aftermarket head gasket FEEL PRO 9296PT , AJUSA 10108800 , APEX AHG1100 , MAHLE 54097 and screws too. I can buy new .
Should I use old cylinder head screws or buy "aftermarket" new ones?
Ajusa aftermarket stuff also here at my local suppliers.
Thanks

cylhead repair.jpg engineblock.jpg
 

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I only use Mopar head gaskets but member tryingbe recommends FELPRO 9296PT.

Rock auto has them, tryingbe says the newer blue one is better than the grey one.

Possibly there are still old grey ones left in some warehouses??

Maybe tryingbe will see this and confirm.

I reuse head bolts unless stretched.

Have seen new ones snapped.

Thanks
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for reply Randy
Is this old gray head gasket FEEL-PRO 9296PT on the picture

Thanks FEEL PRO 9296PT gasket.jpg
 

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That appears to be the new updated head gasket. You can tell by the reinforcement in the triangular waterjacket area in the lower left corner of the photo. Under the label, the reinforcement should also be there on the lower right side. That gasket will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That appears to be the new updated head gasket. You can tell be the reinforcement in the triangular waterjacket area in the lower left corner of the photo. Under the label, the reinforcement should also be there on the lower right side. That gasket will work fine.
Ok . I bought this gasket today and looking forward to shipment .
Thanks
 

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Just make sure that's the one that you get!!

Some report getting the old one.

Thanks
Randy

PS: Some exhaust stud holes go into the water passage.

Ensure you coat the studs with copper coat or sealant.

Many leak coolant after a thorough cleaning when running.
 

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Just make sure that's the one that you get!!

Some report getting the old one.

Thanks
Randy

PS: Some exhaust stud holes go into the water passage.

Ensure you coat the studs with copper coat or sealant.

Many leak coolant after a thorough cleaning when running.
Randy brings up a good point. The bottom four exhaust manifold studs penetrate the water jacket so these need a thread sealant of some type for sure. On the intake, four of the eight hole are not blind, they intersect the head bolt holes. This can cause a slow oil weeping problem if not sealed. If in doubt, it won't hurt to use a thread sealant on all of them.
Be darn sure the oil galley plugs were replaced when the head was serviced. This is a common area that machine shops skip and metal shavings can hide in these areas. At a bare minimum remove one and run a long brush through the entire oil galley. Upon startup, the first place all this debris will go is through the camshaft journals. Hurting both the camshaft, and the head's camshaft journals. Remember these heads don't use camshaft bearings, so you don't want to have these areas all boogered up. Many machine shops beadblast the head. Nothing wrong with that but you have to make sure all the media is removed. Beadblast media will play havoc on entire engine and turbo. I personally never have machine shops assemble head. So when I get it home, It gets a final check and wash before assembly. Found many times small debris in the bottom of the utility tub when I drain the tub. IMO, the cylinder head can't be too clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Just make sure that's the one that you get!!

Some report getting the old one.

Thanks
Randy

PS: Some exhaust stud holes go into the water passage.

Ensure you coat the studs with copper coat or sealant.

Many leak coolant after a thorough cleaning when running.
[/QUOTE

I am sure I will get the gasket, which is on the picture.

Thank you Randy for remark about the coating needed for some exhaust stud holes. To be honest - I just partly understand what is going on here (even after reading 4L- bodies reaction). Can you please elaborate more how to find the right exhaust stud holes, which need to be sealed and what kind of copper coat or which sealant should be prefferably used for this action? I thought it is just about the completation process of all components and nothing more. Any link for pictures or video or step by step description would be helpful for me...
Thank you. Randy
Thank you 4L- bodies
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I am sure I will get the gasket, which is on the picture.

Thank you Randy for remark about the coating needed for some exhaust stud holes. To be honest - I just partly understand what is going on here (even after reading 4L-bodies reaction). Can you please elaborate more how to find the right exhaust stud holes, which need to be sealed and what kind of copper coat or which sealant should be prefferably used for this action? I thought it is just about the completation process of all components and nothing more. Any link for pictures or video or step by step description would be helpful for me...
Thank you Randy
Thank you 4L-bodies
 

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Some of the threaded holes in the cylinder head are not "blind" or dead end.

Some of the holes the exhaust studs go into are open into the water (coolant) jacket.

The studs should be coated with a sealant, prevents coolant from seeping along the threads.

Some for the intake bolts, some holes intersect with head bolts and can seep Engine oil.

Todd mentioned the oil galley plugs in each end of the cylinder head need to be removed.

These oil galley plugs are like a small expansion plug, or frost plug or freeze plug.

They need to be removed in order to clean the cylinder head oil passage ways.

Often we replace them with a small screw in pipe plug.

Todd probably has some pictures but I don't.

I'm freezing my balls off today.

Not sure about Todd.

Temp -40

Thanks
Randy

PS: Forward any questions or concerns, we're glad to assist!!
 

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Here are some pictures to better explain where the holes are that pass into water jacket (black), and the holes that intersect headbolt passages (red). The rest of the manifold holes are blind, (meaning they don't intersect with anything). These can be left alone, or you can add some Locktite to the threads so they don't back themselves out, as they can loosen over time. I would recommend some sort of thread locker on these bolts. One blue circle is oil galley fitting. There is an identical one on the other side. These are the ones that I recommended removing when cleaning head, and running a long brush through. Some people just tap these with a 3/8" NPT pipe thread, then add plugs. No need to drill these out, as they're the correct size for a 3/8" tap already. I use stainless plugs, but mild steel will work too. Make sure not to tap these too deep, as you can cut off the oil supply feed to the head. These of course need sealant on the threads to seal. You can also install 5/8" core plugs like the factory did. Most people usually do this. The important thing is to remove these to clean the oil passage out after being through the machine shop. Hope this helps
cylinder head sealant  holes..jpg cylinder head sealant locations.jpg IMG_0057.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The good new is I have the gasket FEEL-PRO 9296PT with me.
Thanks 4L - bodies , I am very grateful for pictures with intake bolts, which should be sealed, marked on. Do you use seal also for the head screws? Which number?
One more thing - you wrote about: You can also install 5/8" core plugs like the factory did. Most people usually do this.
Can you please provide any picture 5/8" core plugs , part number , or link, where can I buy it?
Thanks Glhs60 , I will have more questions later, when mechanic will start work to put the engine together.
I give it last try and if no success then junkyard .
Also I need new motor mounts, is it OK to buy one WESTAR (EM2600 , EM2617 , EM2493) from R.A.?
Thanks and sorry for my communication, I have very basic english and my friends are translating for me..
Jiri.
 

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The good new is I have the gasket FEEL-PRO 9296PT with me.
Thanks 4L - bodies , I am very grateful for pictures with intake bolts, which should be sealed, marked on. Do you use seal also for the head screws? Which number?
One more thing - you wrote about: You can also install 5/8" core plugs like the factory did. Most people usually do this.
Can you please provide any picture 5/8" core plugs , part number , or link, where can I buy it?
Thanks Glhs60 , I will have more questions later, when mechanic will start work to put the engine together.
I give it last try and if no success then junkyard .
Also I need new motor mounts, is it OK to buy one WESTAR (EM2600 , EM2617 , EM2493) from R.A.?
Thanks and sorry for my communication, I have very basic english and my friends are translating for me..
Jiri.
Whoever is translating for you is doing a great job! Better than a lot of people on this forum, and their only language is English (lol).
The headbolts are installed without any sealer, just a thin coat of engine oil. Here are a couple pics of the 5/8" core plugs and 3/8" NPT plug for the cylinder head oil galley. You use either these plugs, or tap the hole for a 3/8" NPT plug. The Dorman part # for the 5/8" plugs is 555-011. The cylinder head core plugs for the water jacket (coolant) are 1-1/4" (1.250") part # for those are Dorman 555-023 or PC-18. I would definitely purchase a couple different varieties of the core plugs for the oil galleys as some fit much better than others. Some are pretty loose. As you can see in the pics, they come in various depths and unfortunately various qualities. You need a quantity of two 1-1/4" and two 5/8" core plugs for your cylinder head. Also referred to as expansion or sometimes even called freeze plugs.
IMO, if you can locate OEM Mopar (Chrysler) engine mounts they will work best. The aftermarket mounts aren't the greatest quality. Johhny Spiva a Turbo Dodge enthusiast owns a company called Polybushings.com. He supplies some engine and transmission mounts for our applications. Here is a link to his website.
 

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