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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In 2001, while I was in high school, I acquired an 85 Shelby Charger in mostly complete non-running condition. The car had the original dual fuel pump setup that didn't work so I got a stock replacement high-pressure in-tank unit and replaced the external pump with a hose. I was able to get the car running, but never "right". It would start fairly dependably with a little bit of accelerator pumping but required continued accelerator pumping to keep it running. It would move under its own power, but it was slow and finicky. I don't recall if it was before or after I got it running, but at some point I bought a known-good computer (I believe from someone who was parting out a Shelby on ebay) and swapped that in, but nothing improved.

I subsequently got busy with college, building my mobile DJ business, and a (full time and now part time) engineering career, so it has basically been sitting in a barn at my Grandma's farm for the past 7 years. I recently got reinvigorated with the mechanic bug, and am considering trying to get the Shelby up and running when I go down to my parents for Easter. So, what steps should I take to figure out where the problem is and fix it? I have a copy of the wiring diagram that the previous owner gave me, but otherwise don't have a shop manual. Is that something I should try to acquire? If so, where?

Thanks in advance!
 

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It could be that the timing is off. pull the timing belt covers off and make sure the marks are all aligned properly. I think the procedure is on this sight. Make sure all the vacuum lines are intact and routed properly. Some great sites to check out are: Gus Mahon Homepage, (timing procedure is there as well) Donovan's Dodge Garage, www.DempseyBowling.com . I have a FSM for '86 that I could scan a few pages of if the vacuum diagram isn't under the hood still.
TD.com member NAJ is exactly what his subtitle says he is, a Human Factory Service Manual, so maybe he could help you a little more with the FSM stuff. I hope you get it going, and when you do I'm sure you won't be disappointed. Oh, I just thought of something, did you change the fuel filter? It may have gotten filled with varnish from sitting for so long. Mine did that, when I removed the filter, I could barely blow through it. When it does run, does it seem to be fairly smooth or real rough? That, of course could be an indicator of many things, but it helps to know. How are the plugs, wires, cap & rotor? The HEP (a plate under the distributor cap) could be bad. I'd try everything else first, though, because they're quite expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the info--I'll look into that stuff a bit further. As far as the fuel filter, where is it located? I don't specifically remember changing it, but there was definitely a lot of varnish and crap in the tank that I tried to clean out when I put the new pump in so I think I would have been smart enough to make sure that was new (though I have learned a few things in the seven years since so no guarantees). My recollection is that when it ran it didn't run particularly rough as long as you pumped the gas a little... without pumping it would sputter and die.

Is the car turbo or not?
Yes, it's a 2.2L turbo. Hence why I posted about it on a site called turbododge.com?
 

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The filter is bolted to the pass. side floor pan, right by the tank. If you possibly replaced the filter seven years ago, but you're not sure, just do it. It's almost definitely plugged. Some Shelby Chargers came with a non-turbo engine, so that's why he asked. Owners of naturally-aspirated front-wheel-drive cars are welcome here, too as long as they are from the same era, although they are encouraged to upgrade ASAP.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok... after further reflection I remembered a few more details and my mom managed to find some of my notes that were still there from when I last worked on it.

First, what fuel pressure should expect to have at the fuel rail? I have a test gauge and think that might be a good place to start.

Second, I remembered getting some trouble codes--and my mom found the stuff I had printed out on them. The codes were 16 and 44 and what I found on allpar.com says that they're for loss of battery voltage and No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR Battery temperature out of range. Any suggestions on how to diagnose? I remember swapping (or at least attempting to swap) alternators at some point with one that came out of a friends failed demolition derby car, but a charging system problem still shouldn't affect the engine running, should it?
 

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Second, I remembered getting some trouble codes--and my mom found the stuff I had printed out on them. The codes were 16 and 44 and what I found on allpar.com says that they're for loss of battery voltage and No FJ2 voltage present at logic board
OR Logic module self-diagnostics indicate problem OR Battery temperature out of range. Any suggestions on how to diagnose?
Sounds like you might need a new battery... I'd start there.
 

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Sounds like everything suggested would need to be done anyways to a car that has been sitting this long.
After a battery, plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter/new gas/timing belt + all hoses and probably tires the thing may run fine.

Good luck. It's a fun little car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Got it running. Squirted some oil in the cylinders and got it to hit shooting propane in the intake, then purged out the old gas and got it to run for real. The biggest problem now (other than tires that barely held air when I got the car in '01 and haven't exactly improved with age) is that the rubber piece that holds the shifter linkage to the shift arm on the transmission broke... so the car moved under its own power about 2-300 yards before it let loose and wouldn't go into gear.

I seem to be getting a little smoke out the exhaust... is this a sign I need new seals on the turbo? How hard/expensive is it to fix, and is it critically urgent? I'd ideally like to get the car running well enough to drive it to my house, which is about 130 miles.
 

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Oooo how about the classic mouse nest in the exhaust? My 94 caravan smoked like crazy because she was plugged up tight, though a constant 3500 rpms shot the stuff out pretty quick and the smell of roasted mouse was in the air.
 

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i got rat guts in the airbox that got sucked into the turbo with a shelby once =) The rubber grommit is common to go out. good luck finding one i had to get mine outa texas. And that car may also have some built up carbon. Did you change the oil before starting the car???
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The smoke was bluish, but not real dark and heavy or anything. I originally had the exhaust unhooked at the turbo and once reconnected it seemed like there was much less smoke making it out the tailpipe. I think my plan for the near term is going to be to run it as is and get the other problems fixed first.

I *think* I got the part I need to fix the shifter from the local Dodge dealer. It's a plastic eyebolt with the rubber ball receptacle in the center... and cost $33.35 + tax.

I'm going to be back down at my parents Sunday/Monday and am planning to fix the shift linkage, replace the stuck driver's side brake caliper, and start diagnosing the charging system. I checked the battery voltage off vs. running after the last post and it definitely appears it isn't charging... are there any common issues I should check first, or just pull the alt and take it in to a parts store to test?

Also, are these 2.2L engines interference or non? Is replacing the timing belt very difficult? Based on how long it's been sitting it seems like that should maybe be on the to-do list, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Oooo how about the classic mouse nest in the exhaust?
I remember it having that issue when I got it, but appears to be all clear now. The barn it's been sitting is also inhabited by several cats, and aside from a little bit of nest activity under the cowl and some mouse shit in the interior everything seems to be intact.

Did you change the oil before starting the car???
I put fresh Castrol Syntec when I got the car... the car has been sitting inside and probably hasn't run more than an hour since then. It was clean and full on the dipstick so I just left it for now...
 

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Check the sites I listed in post #2, I think the timing belt procedure is on one or both of them. Search here, too. It's a non-interference engine. Could be turbo seal or valve seals. Put some Seafoam in with the oil per label directions to clean everything up in there. I'd put some in the gas tank, too. 1/2 quart of tranny fluid in the crankcase works, too. Just don't leave either in for too long. WAIT A SECOND, *lightbulb* didn't you say you put oil in the cylinders? There's your smoke right there, LOL! :D
 

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check all your grounds on the car, the main one on the engine by the battery and the one that goes to the firewall from the intake that is towards the passenger side top corner of the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I did put oil in the cylinders, but it wasn't very much and I figured it would burn off fairly quickly. It seemed like it was still smoking pretty good after running 10-15 minutes. It went away (or at least reduced greatly) with the exhaust hooked up, but that could have also been partly just from running longer.

Thanks for the tip on the timing belt procedures--I'll look into those sites you posted more thoroughly later this evening.
 
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