so I got a custom Cal from Shel-Game, and it runs rich at idle, 10.0 at first start up then goes to 11.5 - 12.9 warmed up. but first the set up of my vehicle:
87 shelby Charger
original block and head rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago with bigger valves in head.
89 turbo roller.
89 one piece with 52mm TB (not sure if it is ported)
.60 trim turbo with FMIC.
T2 injectors with original FPR.
TU 3" O2 housing with FWDperf 3" full exhaust (high flow cat and muffler)
MTX-L wideband with the simulated narrowband going to LM.
GLHS LM with overboost set to 14.7PSI
with the GLHS LM the car runs fine, A/F goes between 13.7-15.0 which is normal and everything is fine for driving.
I had Shel-Game make me a custom Cal using an 87 LM based on the specs above but had him bump the boost to 13PSI with an overboost set to 17PSI with 3 bar map and the t2injectors which should handle the added boost just fine.
so I added the map pigtail, swapped the two wires (CEL and speed sensor wire), hook up the LM and start the car. on first start the car idles at 10.0 then leans up a little to the 11.0-11.5 sometimes will go to 12.9 range and will just hang out there, it doesnt fluctuate up or down more than a couple points it is just steady on the A/F gauge. when driving it fluctuates like normal but a little on the richer side, and at WOT the A/F will go to 9.5 and as speed and boost increases comes into the 10.0 range.
I checked the vacuum at the map and it is 19hg - 21hg Vac, thats with stock 2 bar or 3 bar, I checked with a scan tool and the computer is seeing that same range as well. (with the GLHS LM and 2 bar) the signal wire going to the LM from the 3 bar is 0.68V at idle and 1.69V Key On Engine Off. I am thinking that my 3 bar might be no good because that is the only thing that was newly added and could easliy cause a rich idle condition. but according to some post I have read, the voltage I am seeing is normal, but yet other places say that the .60V range on the 3 bar is around 14hg Vac. the instant I switch back to the GLHS LM everything goes to normal.
does anyone have any ideas before I go out and buy another 3 bar? I am fairly mechanically and electrically inclined and have done a lot of research and have come up with nothing as to why with a 3 bar Cal it isn't basically "plug and play" with my set up.
Also Shel-Game has sent me two additional chips to try but to no avail.
87 shelby Charger
original block and head rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago with bigger valves in head.
89 turbo roller.
89 one piece with 52mm TB (not sure if it is ported)
.60 trim turbo with FMIC.
T2 injectors with original FPR.
TU 3" O2 housing with FWDperf 3" full exhaust (high flow cat and muffler)
MTX-L wideband with the simulated narrowband going to LM.
GLHS LM with overboost set to 14.7PSI
with the GLHS LM the car runs fine, A/F goes between 13.7-15.0 which is normal and everything is fine for driving.
I had Shel-Game make me a custom Cal using an 87 LM based on the specs above but had him bump the boost to 13PSI with an overboost set to 17PSI with 3 bar map and the t2injectors which should handle the added boost just fine.
so I added the map pigtail, swapped the two wires (CEL and speed sensor wire), hook up the LM and start the car. on first start the car idles at 10.0 then leans up a little to the 11.0-11.5 sometimes will go to 12.9 range and will just hang out there, it doesnt fluctuate up or down more than a couple points it is just steady on the A/F gauge. when driving it fluctuates like normal but a little on the richer side, and at WOT the A/F will go to 9.5 and as speed and boost increases comes into the 10.0 range.
I checked the vacuum at the map and it is 19hg - 21hg Vac, thats with stock 2 bar or 3 bar, I checked with a scan tool and the computer is seeing that same range as well. (with the GLHS LM and 2 bar) the signal wire going to the LM from the 3 bar is 0.68V at idle and 1.69V Key On Engine Off. I am thinking that my 3 bar might be no good because that is the only thing that was newly added and could easliy cause a rich idle condition. but according to some post I have read, the voltage I am seeing is normal, but yet other places say that the .60V range on the 3 bar is around 14hg Vac. the instant I switch back to the GLHS LM everything goes to normal.
does anyone have any ideas before I go out and buy another 3 bar? I am fairly mechanically and electrically inclined and have done a lot of research and have come up with nothing as to why with a 3 bar Cal it isn't basically "plug and play" with my set up.
Also Shel-Game has sent me two additional chips to try but to no avail.
