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Discussion Starter #1
so I got a custom Cal from Shel-Game, and it runs rich at idle, 10.0 at first start up then goes to 11.5 - 12.9 warmed up. but first the set up of my vehicle:

87 shelby Charger
original block and head rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago with bigger valves in head.
89 turbo roller.
89 one piece with 52mm TB (not sure if it is ported)
.60 trim turbo with FMIC.
T2 injectors with original FPR.
TU 3" O2 housing with FWDperf 3" full exhaust (high flow cat and muffler)
MTX-L wideband with the simulated narrowband going to LM.
GLHS LM with overboost set to 14.7PSI

with the GLHS LM the car runs fine, A/F goes between 13.7-15.0 which is normal and everything is fine for driving.
I had Shel-Game make me a custom Cal using an 87 LM based on the specs above but had him bump the boost to 13PSI with an overboost set to 17PSI with 3 bar map and the t2injectors which should handle the added boost just fine.
so I added the map pigtail, swapped the two wires (CEL and speed sensor wire), hook up the LM and start the car. on first start the car idles at 10.0 then leans up a little to the 11.0-11.5 sometimes will go to 12.9 range and will just hang out there, it doesnt fluctuate up or down more than a couple points it is just steady on the A/F gauge. when driving it fluctuates like normal but a little on the richer side, and at WOT the A/F will go to 9.5 and as speed and boost increases comes into the 10.0 range.
I checked the vacuum at the map and it is 19hg - 21hg Vac, thats with stock 2 bar or 3 bar, I checked with a scan tool and the computer is seeing that same range as well. (with the GLHS LM and 2 bar) the signal wire going to the LM from the 3 bar is 0.68V at idle and 1.69V Key On Engine Off. I am thinking that my 3 bar might be no good because that is the only thing that was newly added and could easliy cause a rich idle condition. but according to some post I have read, the voltage I am seeing is normal, but yet other places say that the .60V range on the 3 bar is around 14hg Vac. the instant I switch back to the GLHS LM everything goes to normal.
does anyone have any ideas before I go out and buy another 3 bar? I am fairly mechanically and electrically inclined and have done a lot of research and have come up with nothing as to why with a 3 bar Cal it isn't basically "plug and play" with my set up.
Also Shel-Game has sent me two additional chips to try but to no avail.
 

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I've looked at it several times and I can't find anything wrong in the cal with respect to the MAP sensor. I've done many many of these 2.2 3-Bar LM cals, and never had a problem like this. On the other hand, your voltage levels at the 3-bar MAP look OK to me. So, I don't know what it could be.

Plus, the last chip I sent you took out about 10% fuel below 2k rpm or so. And, it was actually richer than the first, right? So, I'm kind of stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is a 2 bar/3 bar map out there on google. It'll tell you there voltage number you're looking for


http://hhscott.com/93tmv/images/3BARv2BAR_Map.gif


I seen this graph and according to it 0.68-0.70V is equal 10hg Vacuum, and that is the voltage I have at idle but the actual vacuum at manifold and right at map sensor is 19 -21hg Vac which should be a lower voltage according to that graph. or am I reading that chart wrong
I've looked at it several times and I can't find anything wrong in the cal with respect to the MAP sensor. I've done many many of these 2.2 3-Bar LM cals, and never had a problem like this. On the other hand, your voltage levels at the 3-bar MAP look OK to me. So, I don't know what it could be.

Plus, the last chip I sent you took out about 10% fuel below 2k rpm or so. And, it was actually richer than the first, right? So, I'm kind of stumped.
yeah it is, that is why I am thinking it is the map sensor itself because that is the only extra thing added. I got it online from amautoparts and the pic and description made it look like OEM but when I got it it seems like a cheap Chinese POS.
 

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That map voltage seems off, 5 psi should be around 1.9 volts so 20 inch hg should be much lower, its always helpfull to have an adjustable fpr to help fine tune with the wideband
 

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did you ever find the problem with this, I have a Shelgame LM also, running a 3 bar and it is really rich at idle and light cruise around 10.8-12 on the wideband
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just got some early 90 thunderbird injectors and an AFPR. the injectors werent necessary but they came with the fuel regulator so i figured why not, they are 35# injectors vs 32/34# ( not sure of the flow) T2 injectors. but after that I was able to fine tune it even more and never had another issue with it running rich.
 

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It'll be great if Shel-Game manages to make the CPU upgrade/flash module for the LM's. You guys could just fine tune the cal yourself with a laptop once you install the module. It's really the only way to go.
 

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well I have +40 injectors and AFPR and turn the pressure down to 40 psi and was still rich at idle and lean in boost so reset it to 55 psi, I could buy the Ostrich but before somebody shows me how to use MPTune and the Ostrich I am lost, somebody should do a How To Video on how to adjust the fuel at idle, cruise and WOT
 

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I did and I am still not very confident at all, even the Ostich I have no idea , the thing is I need to see somebody do it and show me once, after that I will have a better idea of how to adjust the fuel tables and load it to the Ostrich
 

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well I have +40 injectors and AFPR and turn the pressure down to 40 psi and was still rich at idle and lean in boost so reset it to 55 psi, I could buy the Ostrich but before somebody shows me how to use MPTune and the Ostrich I am lost, somebody should do a How To Video on how to adjust the fuel at idle, cruise and WOT
It's a 2.5, right? I know that issue is and how to fix it. Send me a PM...
 
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