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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, I'm looking for some tuning advice for my chipped SMEC running the Ostrich 2.0. I've been messing with MPTune for a few weeks now and can get the engine running, driving, and boosting along happily, but I have a problem with my idle being quite rich and I cant seem to figure it out. From what I've read, I'm not the only one with this issue, but I also cant seem to find a solution.

This usually happens on first cold startup (I know, I know, cold startups are supposed to be rich). I should note that this is a Boost Button cal that I found online. Ive been modifying it to fit my needs, but it seems to run extremely rich on initial start, and stays in the mid 10's all the way up to operating temp, at which point it appears to gain into the 13's and stays there for multiple fan cycles. I have uploaded a stock dodge tune which brings the AFR's up gradually and then levels out at a nice 14.7-ish.
I have uploaded the boost button tune after a warm-up and had it run at a quality 14.7 which is weird that it wont do that on its own....
I'm just curious what parameters I can change to try and level out these idle AFR's.

Things I've tried:
- Modifying the FuelColdEnrichmentCurves (A,B, and C)
- Modifying the Curve Hold times
- Modifying the FuelStartFromCoolant
- The StartFuel From Temp
- ColdLoadFromCoolantTemp's

all of which seem to do absolutely nothing, which Im really confused about..
The only table that actually seems to change anything is the PumpingEfficiency from RPM, which takes some drastic changes at idle RPM to change the AFR.
Is there a secret table that I'm just not seeing? or am I modifying these tables in the wrong manner?
I was also thinking about maybe taking the startup and idle tables from the stock tune, but i'm not entirely sure how to do that, or which tables to snag.
Any advice would be really helpful to try and get this working, or even someones tune that may be a better starting point for my, into-to-tuning self. Thanks!

Also! Off topic, if anyone knows a good how-to on getting the antilag options to work on the Boost Button tune that would be awesome. The website just says that its do-able, but not much more.
Because I'm still a 4 year old at heart :grin2:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'd make a copy of the tune, scale it for 75lbs injectors and see how it runs in cold, if it runs ok, copy all the cold start tables over to your tune.
I went ahead and did this. Nothing happens at all after the flash. I think maybe my issue is that im trying to modify the BIN file. It seems like the tpl is the file I want to screw with, but I cant figure out how to flash it after modifying it. The tuning wiki isnt much of a wiki when it comes to this stuff...

EDIT: I figured some things out and it actually worked scaling for larger injectors, but now im not sure how to copy the graphs over... Stuffs confusing
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm using MPtuner to flash. Right now i'm modifying the tbl, compiling, and then uploading the bin. I suppose that's the same as modifying the bin itself and then flashing. Ive been working with the boost button stage 4 cal for the SMEC, V19.6. From forum searching it seems like im not the only one with the rich idle issue, but there doesn't seem to be a proper way to solve it. Some are screwing with the AISEnrichments, and others are modifying the Pumping Efficiency to quite a great extent. Ive tried both, with the most success with pumping efficiency, but Im not sure if thats a good way to go about fixing my problem... I cant be the only one running +40's and tuning on an Ostrich.

Also ive tried altering the tables individually which are scaled by the injector scaling option with very little luck
 

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Use this program to flash instead.
http://www.tunerpro.net/downloadUtils.htm

Use this file. I never liked the pre modified file.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?23368-Turbonator-SMEC-codebase

I edit the TBI file once, compile it, from then on, I only modify the bin file.

I'd scale the bin file to 80ish lbs injectors and see if cold idle is any better.

Read this for tuning.
http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?77089-Who-here-wants-to-get-started-tuning-the-stock-ECU&p=1067674&viewfull=1#post1067674
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cool, cool. Thanks!

I got a running system today that seems to hold stable. Im still not crazy happy about the idle, but It varies around the low to high 14's.
Right now it seems like i am just screwing around with the part throttle table to get it to transition nicely. Im pretty sure I can go in and add more points on the graph to make things smoother. Still lots of screwing around to do, along with trying to figure out the anti-lag and if i can make that work somehow.

Either way, its still way better than my extremely lean part throttle, and heavily rich full throttle stage 5 I was running.

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Still messing around with things. It seems like every time I reflash the program my idle goes dead rich, even on the base stock tune. If i leave it for a minute or two it seems to settle in the 13's and another few minutes it finds it way to stoich. This is all with everything up to temp. When driving, everything works perfectly, all the way through boost, but only when I drop down to idle does it start going rich again. I was brainstorming through old posts and was wondering if my 3Bar map could be a fault. My map is a middle of the road, $40 gm map, so it could be genuine or it could be some remake. Not sure if this would have such a huge effect at idle, and not during driving operation, but its my current suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey!

Figured Id quickly close this out with what I came up with. I messed with a whole range of things, but to solve my extremely rich issue from a cold start, all the way up to idle i shot the AISEnrichmentFuelPulse straight to zero. I'm not sure why this helps my problem but everything seems much more adjustable now.
I was still running quite rich at idle, but as tryingbe mentioned, I modified the FuelBaselineFromMap, down near idle vacuum and things are starting to come together. Now its just been some movements with the part and WOT tables to dial things in.
I still have some weird instances from cold start where my AFR starts rich, and slowly moves to the 12's, and then suddenly shoots back to 10's again, and then slowly back to the 12's. This cycles about 4 times until operating temp is achieved and then I'm steady at stoich. Not sure what is causing it, but its not a huge deal

thanks for all of the help. Its definitely been a learning process
 
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