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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I used to always try to find information on Rick Lozier's 12 second 3.0 nitrous injected daytona. I usually couldn't find much. So here is what I propose, what if we create a nice thread about this ride with all the information about it so everyone that wants to know about it and just look here instead of digging through pages or trying to always bug reaper1 about it. So i'll try to list all the stuff we should want to know about the car (if somthing isn't listed then LMK), here is the thing, I still don't know alot about this car so I need help filling in the blanks!!! I will try to help edit this post to keep it up to date the best I can.

The car was a 1991 Dodge Daytona 3.0L V6, with the work that was done to the engine it made 250HP N/A, it was direct port nitrous injected which supposedly made 400HP w/Nitrous.

Block: Mitsubishi Diamante Block mounted backwards
Cylinder Bore: 3.2L displacment 191 C.I.?
Compression: ?
Crankshaft: 3.2L stroker kit from RPW
Connecting Rods: Stock smoothed, bead blasted and balanced
Heads: polished and ported (flowrate?)
Camshafts: Crower Regrinds Specs w/ 1.5 rocker ratio
Camshaft gears: Adjustable RPW gears
Intake Valves: ?
Exhaust Valves: ?
Valve springs: ?
Injectors: ?
Lower Intake Manifold: stock ported and polished
Upper Intake Manifold: stock ported and polished
Throttle Body: 52mm?
Intake filter: Looks like traditional K&N RU-3030 mounted to Throttle Body Directly
Oil pump: (possible high flow toga?)
Engine Control Unit: Haltech computer only programmed to 3k RPM before reaper1 purchased it
Crankshaft Pulley: FM Underdrive Pulley
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Aeroquip AFPR?

Motor Mounts
Front Motor mount: Stock
Passenger Motor mount: Stock
Transmission Motor mount: Stock

Flexplate: Stock
Transmission: Rebuilt A-604 4spd Automatic built by Cottman Transmission in Jacksonville, Fl By Ron
Torque Converter Possible 10" TC from Dodge Avenger?

Ignition system
Spark Plugs: Denso or NGK?
Spark Plug Wires: Magnecore 8MM wires
Coil Pack: MSD HVC
Distributer Cap: Stock HD unit
Rotor: Stock HD unit

Fuel system
Fuel Pump: Walbro 255lph
Fuel High Pressure Line: Then 5/16" & Now 3/8" aluminum line
Fuel Return Line: 1/4"

Nitrous System
Nitrous:Direct port injection
Nozzle jets size: 150HP shot
Bottle size: 2x 10# Bottles

Hood:Stock 2nd gen Daytona Hood
Hood Scoop: Ram-Air NACA Duct

Headers: Custom equal length headers (I heard these where from Foward Motion?) Only info I can find are these couple of pages which most likely isn't 100% accurate
Pipe Size: Then 2.5" & Now 3" soon?
Muffler: DynoMax Muffler
Catalytic Converter: Hi-Flow 2.5"

Struts: Koni
Shocks: Koni
Springs: Eibach's Progressive drop

Front disc's Stock 10" Vented disc's
Rear Drum Stock Drum setup

I know, alot of blanks to fill-in. I figure from this thread what we can do to learn about what made this sucker tick and how we can improve upon it. Not that it will apply to everyone (IE turbo, supercharger) but this could get anyone rolling in the right step hopefully. Look forward to all your guys input!!!

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5,790 Posts
LOL, I can fill in a LOT of the blanks, but there are a lot even *I* don't know!!!

Block is a Mitsu block sourced from a Diamante IIRC. It is mounted backwards as the dipstick is in the rear of the engine compartment. The oil filter would also be there, but it is remote mounted on the passenger side frame rail.

I can't remember if the paper I have has the information regarding the bore of the block. I know that it is running the 3.2L RPW stroker kit(I don't even think they make it anymore :( ). What all that REALLY is...I've forgotten. Maybe the guys from KMP can shed some light on this? I know the stock rods were used in the old engine. They were smoothed, bead blasted and balanced with ARP hardware.

The cam specs have already been posted in the Crower Cams thread IIRC.

The valve gear I'm unsure of. I know the paper I have says "look in to stiffer springs", but that was a sublet paper for another shop...no info beyond that.

Injectors: ARRGGHH...brain fart. I can't remember right off. I know it USED to have N/A DOHC Stealth injectors in it. It blew the engine OFF the bottle. I came up with that those injectors couldn't supply enough fuel to the engine under WOT when there was no bottle causing it to run lean if the factory fuel pressure was being used. This was before the stand-alone. Rick I BELIEVE changed them out for other injectors, but what I can't remember right now. I'll have to look through the papers...

oil pump is as good a guess as mine...gonna look at that probably before I fire it off...hopefully before the end of summer(I HOPE!!)

The papers that have been posted about the headers are pretty much 100% what they are. I REALLY want to get the car in the air to take pictures of them for people. I think I may have to modify them though as the "Y" where they come together has a tendancy to blow out due to flexing and expansion of the metal. It uses stock Stealth/3KGT gaskets there from what Rick told me.

I have a laptop to use for tuning, I just have to get the software. Once I fire it I think I should be able to manage it...it doesn't seem THAT hard!! :thumb:

Motor mounts are all stock. I'm going to change that though to all poly. That option wasn't around when he build the car.

AFAIK the flexplate is stock
The A604 was built at least once by Cottman Transmission on Atlantic Blvd in Jacksonville, Fl by a guy named Ron. He also built the tranny that was in my '90. VERY good build(bad driver using it for auto-X!! DOH :bang head:)

The converter was supposed to be a 10" converter from a different model...possibly Avenger? Not 100% on that. There are other options out there now, and once I get it going I may have to swap it out...

Plugs are Denso or NGK depending on whether it's being squeezed or not. I have both, I'll post them when I get the chance

Wires are Magnecor...I'll probably swap them for MSD eventually

Coil is no longer stock. It's an MSD HVC IIRC.

Cap and rotor arre stock HD replacement parts.

Pump right now is a single Walboro 255. I'm contemplating on making it 2, just to make sure! It had a stock pump and a MSD booster pump in it...I did away with that mess.

The fuel supply line is all new: I bent up 3/8" aluminum line from the pump to the rail. I can now use -6AN SS hose and fittings all the way to supply it! I have to put the new modified rail on it now...

Return line is going to be upgraded as well...I might ditch the entire stock stuff and jsut do 3/8" for it too...I'm undecieed right now

It uses an aftermarket FPR(I *think* it's Aeroquip), but I'm sure it needs to be either rebuilt or replaced...

It uses 2 10# bottles. I have to add the saftey dump lines to them(never had them!!!) and I think I may eventually put electric bottle openers on it :D

It was using 150 shot, but what jet sizes I don't know. I'm also contemplating getting different nozzles as there are newer onesout there that may work better. We'll see when I get to that point. I also need to replace the solenoids for saftey's sake.

Some other things:
it has a bolt in AutoPower cage in it
Kirkey racing seat driver & passenger
5pnt harnesses for both
Koni's and Eibachs all around
stock 10" disc/drum set-up
no rear seat

Things I'm contemplating:
getting rid of the stereo completly. I think I want this thing to be a pure "go fast" car. It has some really nice stuff in it, but not needed to go fast. I need to get rid of all the Dynomat in the rear too!

It'll be getting a full complement of gages

probably 3" exhaust...right now it's 2.5" w/cat and Dynomax muffler

I beleive the Jacob's Mastermind Nitrose controller HAS to be hooked back up. They unhooked it with the hopes that the stand-alone could take over its function fully. After reading about it, I don't think it can.

I'm going to go through the entire suspension with new bushings ect. to bring it up to date

Brakes need to be redone, but I'm keeping the stock size and set-up. It's lighter than the other options and the car will be lighter than stock(I hope), so they should be more than adaquate to do the job with some good pads and shoes.

I'd like to be able to manually control the A604. I know there is one person that was seriously looking in to this, but I may also take this challenge up if I can figure out computer code stuff. I also want to transplant ome sort of posi in to it. If not...as much as I love to prove the A604 a compitant tranny...if the ratios don't prove to work out well, then I'ma build a bad-ass A670 and see if I can't push it to low 11's!

I've recently come across some new ideas on how to deliver the nitrose. Included in this is a new intake plenum design to take full advantage of my idea. Not giving up too many clues just yet, but in true spirit of all out power it will include idividual throttle bodies! :D

I think I'd like to get another set of heads done by some people with more knowledge about these heads. This knowledge wasn't out there when this car was first built, so I beleive there may be more in it!

I have to redo the hood scoop, but that should be easy body work. I dunno if the paint will freshen up the way it is or not. It's got a lot of spiderwebbing in it on the front and chips. It's been painted at least twice. I want to return it to having a stripe(right now it doesn't have it), and I'd like to know if there's a way to add a blue tint to the paint so it has a blue-ish hue to it in the light.

It's going to need new wheels. I don't like the ones that are on it. I want some BBS's for it, but it may end up with something differnt. Weight it my biggest priority right behind looking good and then price. I will also have a set of wheels just fror drag...I don't think Rick ever raced it with slicks!!

There's much more, but that's it in a nutshell. I'm more than happy to try and answer questions about the car as best as I can.

Right now I'm in school at Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University going for my Aerospace Engineering degree. It is the #1 rated school for this program in the country(and REALLY high in the world), it is not easy, and it is not cheap. I am putting myself through it. I'm renting a room in Daytona and still own my house in Jacksonville. So, this project is going to progress VERY slowly. I hate to say that, but my degree is more important right now.

If more questions arise, just post them here and I'll try my best to answer them...

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1,151 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
can you get a pic of your nitrous nozzle set up or explain it to me? im assuming your running a dry system? we had a pipe fitted to the tb and the air filter on the pipe with the nozzle in pipe. i have a pic some where on the internet i will have to try to find it. it is a wet system with over 30 1/4 mile runs. i will have to remember other info and i will post it. we have had problem with the nos solenoid not opening just think how rich it is when you run a xtra fuel injector and no nos. Hmmmm the nos is activated at wot with a switch mounted to the throttle linkage on the tb.
Here is the best pic i've seen of the nitrous setup: http://www.robskorner.org/faqs/3litrefaqs/rick/rick3.jpg you can see each jet is right in the top of the lower intake manifold.

Hey reaper, kinda odd to be able to use a stroker crankshaft with stock rods, wonder what kind of pistons are used in that case, i'd figure it would have to have shortened rods?!

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9,531 Posts
I would guess if there really is a stroke increase that it is very minimal and that most of it is bore increase.

As Chris points out custom pistons allow you to do whatever you want and make a lot of fun things possible.

IMO its not a good idea to cut up the rod journals on a nitrous 6g72 because if you spray to early that torque will kill things. The stock rods also REALLY dont like big torque. They can take 9000 RPMs but 600ftlb and you will be on borrowed time. I know I have to always remember that. Hopefully he has the slightly stronger forged crank and I think Chris's plans revolve more around losing 500# of weight rather then adding tons more power.

A build like Chris's probably needs the motor torn down every full racing season (and reman the rods or upgrade etc) just like I should theoretically do in the future but Im guessing a lot of us here choose to run things to total failure.

Chris, you have any idea what RPM that car was spraying at???

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I know he was launching off the bottle and about 60' hitting the spray. I'd say probably about 4000rpm. It wasn't hitting all at once though, he was running a Jacobs Mastermind N2O controller which pulses the solenoids on a ramp up to 100% depending on how you have it set. It's base on rpm, not time...so I think that it's the best option out there for nitrose control. Redline was set around 6500 IIRC by the indication on the tach(there's tape tick marks for quick refference like you would do on an plane).

I don't honestly remember what the CR is. I know it isn't the stock 8.8:1...the RPW kit was higher than stock. I want to say 9.5:1, but don't quote that as 100% fact.

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I decided to sticky this because i believe it still has some info that cam be used for NOS motors!!!
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