Do you have gauge lights?
+1 I'm currently in an automotive electrical class and if you taking everything apart thats just gonna make more of a head ache for yourself. I would check for a open ground circuit from the sound of it if you didn't blow a fuse. Now If your fuse was blown I would be looking for a power to ground short. On another note you must have power back to the light for your brake / haz lights to be workingYou replaced the fuses but never checked to see if you had power in/out or power on the PK wire at the horn relay at the back of the fuse block.
Purchase an inexpensive multi-meter and check for power at the fuse block, in/out of the headlamp switch, steering column connector and at the sockets.
If power is not present at the sockets work your way back towards the steering column connector or use the ohmmeter to check for continuity thru the circuit to isolate the open wire.
Just ripping panels off without knowing where you are going is useless since everything is wrapped in the harness.
Autozone and Advance both have inexpensive meters for under $20.00.
I posted the entire circuit and sent the wiring thru PM.Before doing anything be sure both bulbs are good, there is no corrosion at/on the sockets and there are no viaually broken wires at the sockets.
Secondly check the body ground, there is only one ground for both taillamps, it is a Grey wire that will be bolted to the body in the hatch area.
If the ground is at fault the rear side markers, turn signals and brake lights will not operate in the rear either.
Power is from Fuse #7(20 Amp) which powers Horn Relay, Instrument Panel Illumination, Park Lamps, Side Markers, Taillamps, Licsence Lamp, Radio Intensity Display.
Power from the Fuse Block(Vilolet Wire) runs to the Horn Relay where it is spliced(Pink Wire) and runs to the Headlamp Switch.
The output from the headlamp switch to the front park lamps and taillamps is a Black/Yellow wire.
The BK/YL wire runs thru cavity #2 of a connector that appears to be on the steering column.
From there it runs to both taillamps.
Using your 12 volt test lamp connected to a good ground or your digital voltmeter with the black lead connected to good ground probe the BK/YL wire with the lights on.
If power is present then you need to check to see if power is present in the socket where the bulb makes contact.
The ground in the back is good, and it's not the bulbs. Theyre still good. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure there's a break in a wire somewhere. I'll try the lightbulbs one by one, and if that doesn't work I'm gonna take out all the panels and just spend the day checking everything. This
a pain in my butt.
Additionally, even though my running lights aren't working, my brake lights still kick on, and so do my flashers. Not sure if that is useful at all. I don't have a power tester but I did replace ALL of the fuses in there cause there was a bunch of water that got in through a bad windshield seal and they were rather corroded looking. The lights started messing up after the rain water fried my radio (which I took out).
I don't have gauge lights, either. I've been using a ( sad but true ) flash light to keep an eye on speed at night. Lol. Not good.