Do you have gauge lights?
Running lights not working- not a fuse.
So my 1984 shelby chargers running lights stopped working. The fuse is fine, however I know nothing about wiring and I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere... maybe I'm not looking in the right places? Either way, this makes it rather difficult to drive at night without a daily talking to from the police about how not having tail lights is dangerous. Please help!
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
If you dont have gauge lights, then you have a ground issue with your tail lights (usually the case, but not always)
Did you check the fuse by looking at it or did you verify power is going to it and from it?
Tim
Tim
Do you own a 12 volt test lamp or digital voltmeter?
OEM/6, 12 and 24 Volt coil cord circuit tester (25886) | Circuit Tester | AutoZone.com
Innova/Hands-Free digital multimeter (3306N) | Multimeter | AutoZone.com
OEM/6, 12 and 24 Volt coil cord circuit tester (25886) | Circuit Tester | AutoZone.com
Innova/Hands-Free digital multimeter (3306N) | Multimeter | AutoZone.com
Before doing anything be sure both bulbs are good, there is no corrosion at/on the sockets and there are no viaually broken wires at the sockets.
Secondly check the body ground, there is only one ground for both taillamps, it is a Grey wire that will be bolted to the body in the hatch area.
If the ground is at fault the rear side markers, turn signals and brake lights will not operate in the rear either.
Power is from Fuse #7(20 Amp) which powers Horn Relay, Instrument Panel Illumination, Park Lamps, Side Markers, Taillamps, Licsence Lamp, Radio Intensity Display.
Power from the Fuse Block(Vilolet Wire) runs to the Horn Relay where it is spliced(Pink Wire) and runs to the Headlamp Switch.
The output from the headlamp switch to the front park lamps and taillamps is a Black/Yellow wire.
The BK/YL wire runs thru cavity #2 of a connector that appears to be on the steering column.
From there it runs to both taillamps.
Using your 12 volt test lamp connected to a good ground or your digital voltmeter with the black lead connected to good ground probe the BK/YL wire with the lights on.
If power is present then you need to check to see if power is present in the socket where the bulb makes contact.
Secondly check the body ground, there is only one ground for both taillamps, it is a Grey wire that will be bolted to the body in the hatch area.
If the ground is at fault the rear side markers, turn signals and brake lights will not operate in the rear either.
Power is from Fuse #7(20 Amp) which powers Horn Relay, Instrument Panel Illumination, Park Lamps, Side Markers, Taillamps, Licsence Lamp, Radio Intensity Display.
Power from the Fuse Block(Vilolet Wire) runs to the Horn Relay where it is spliced(Pink Wire) and runs to the Headlamp Switch.
The output from the headlamp switch to the front park lamps and taillamps is a Black/Yellow wire.
The BK/YL wire runs thru cavity #2 of a connector that appears to be on the steering column.
From there it runs to both taillamps.
Using your 12 volt test lamp connected to a good ground or your digital voltmeter with the black lead connected to good ground probe the BK/YL wire with the lights on.
If power is present then you need to check to see if power is present in the socket where the bulb makes contact.
Everyone else has the right idea, I had a similar situation with my shadow when I first got it. I don't have a wiring diagram for you but I do have a tidbit of advice. Take all the bulbs out of the running light set up and plug EACH one back in one by one and turn your running lights on whichever one continues to short out thats the wire you need to investigate.
And if you don't wanna do that ( I didn't want to either ) take a day that you have a boat load of time and take your panels out and go over every wire. A wire with a 1/16 of an inch break in the covering will short it.
Trust me I know this info doesn't sound fun but that is in my opinion the easiest way to check your wiring.
GOOD LUCK
And if you don't wanna do that ( I didn't want to either ) take a day that you have a boat load of time and take your panels out and go over every wire. A wire with a 1/16 of an inch break in the covering will short it.
Trust me I know this info doesn't sound fun but that is in my opinion the easiest way to check your wiring.
GOOD LUCK
sure the bulb aint burnt out ? lol
The ground in the back is good, and it's not the bulbs. Theyre still good. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure there's a break in a wire somewhere. I'll try the lightbulbs one by one, and if that doesn't work I'm gonna take out all the panels and just spend the day checking everything. This is a pain in my butt.
Additionally, even though my running lights aren't working, my brake lights still kick on, and so do my flashers. Not sure if that is useful at all. I don't have a power tester but I did replace ALL of the fuses in there cause there was a bunch of water that got in through a bad windshield seal and they were rather corroded looking. The lights started messing up after the rain water fried my radio (which I took out).
I don't have gauge lights, either. I've been using a ( sad but true ) flash light to keep an eye on speed at night. Lol. Not good.
Additionally, even though my running lights aren't working, my brake lights still kick on, and so do my flashers. Not sure if that is useful at all. I don't have a power tester but I did replace ALL of the fuses in there cause there was a bunch of water that got in through a bad windshield seal and they were rather corroded looking. The lights started messing up after the rain water fried my radio (which I took out).
I don't have gauge lights, either. I've been using a ( sad but true ) flash light to keep an eye on speed at night. Lol. Not good.
sure the bulb aint burnt out ? lol
Haha good call :thumb:
You replaced the fuses but never checked to see if you had power in/out or power on the PK wire at the horn relay at the back of the fuse block.
Purchase an inexpensive multi-meter and check for power at the fuse block, in/out of the headlamp switch, steering column connector and at the sockets.
If power is not present at the sockets work your way back towards the steering column connector or use the ohmmeter to check for continuity thru the circuit to isolate the open wire.
Just ripping panels off without knowing where you are going is useless since everything is wrapped in the harness.
Autozone and Advance both have inexpensive meters for under $20.00.
Purchase an inexpensive multi-meter and check for power at the fuse block, in/out of the headlamp switch, steering column connector and at the sockets.
If power is not present at the sockets work your way back towards the steering column connector or use the ohmmeter to check for continuity thru the circuit to isolate the open wire.
Just ripping panels off without knowing where you are going is useless since everything is wrapped in the harness.
Autozone and Advance both have inexpensive meters for under $20.00.
+1 I'm currently in an automotive electrical class and if you taking everything apart thats just gonna make more of a head ache for yourself. I would check for a open ground circuit from the sound of it if you didn't blow a fuse. Now If your fuse was blown I would be looking for a power to ground short. On another note you must have power back to the light for your brake / haz lights to be workingYou replaced the fuses but never checked to see if you had power in/out or power on the PK wire at the horn relay at the back of the fuse block.
Purchase an inexpensive multi-meter and check for power at the fuse block, in/out of the headlamp switch, steering column connector and at the sockets.
If power is not present at the sockets work your way back towards the steering column connector or use the ohmmeter to check for continuity thru the circuit to isolate the open wire.
Just ripping panels off without knowing where you are going is useless since everything is wrapped in the harness.
Autozone and Advance both have inexpensive meters for under $20.00.
do the front running lights work?
If it has plastic sockets in the back put a trim screw into the ground side of the socket with the bulb in
If it has plastic sockets in the back put a trim screw into the ground side of the socket with the bulb in
running lights are a different circuit then the brake lights and flashers so back to posts 4, 5, and 11. verify power at the fuse. Dash lights not working says to go back to the fuse box and verify power at the fuse.
Tim
Tim
I posted the entire circuit and sent the wiring thru PM.Before doing anything be sure both bulbs are good, there is no corrosion at/on the sockets and there are no viaually broken wires at the sockets.
Secondly check the body ground, there is only one ground for both taillamps, it is a Grey wire that will be bolted to the body in the hatch area.
If the ground is at fault the rear side markers, turn signals and brake lights will not operate in the rear either.
Power is from Fuse #7(20 Amp) which powers Horn Relay, Instrument Panel Illumination, Park Lamps, Side Markers, Taillamps, Licsence Lamp, Radio Intensity Display.
Power from the Fuse Block(Vilolet Wire) runs to the Horn Relay where it is spliced(Pink Wire) and runs to the Headlamp Switch.
The output from the headlamp switch to the front park lamps and taillamps is a Black/Yellow wire.
The BK/YL wire runs thru cavity #2 of a connector that appears to be on the steering column.
From there it runs to both taillamps.
Using your 12 volt test lamp connected to a good ground or your digital voltmeter with the black lead connected to good ground probe the BK/YL wire with the lights on.
If power is present then you need to check to see if power is present in the socket where the bulb makes contact.
Thanks a ton for the pm, hopefully that will help.
Dean: no, the front running lights don't work. The only lights that come on when I turn my headlights on is the headlights themselves. No dash, side, front, or back running lights.
Dean: no, the front running lights don't work. The only lights that come on when I turn my headlights on is the headlights themselves. No dash, side, front, or back running lights.
The ground in the back is good, and it's not the bulbs. Theyre still good. Unfortunately I'm pretty sure there's a break in a wire somewhere. I'll try the lightbulbs one by one, and if that doesn't work I'm gonna take out all the panels and just spend the day checking everything. This
a pain in my butt.
Additionally, even though my running lights aren't working, my brake lights still kick on, and so do my flashers. Not sure if that is useful at all. I don't have a power tester but I did replace ALL of the fuses in there cause there was a bunch of water that got in through a bad windshield seal and they were rather corroded looking. The lights started messing up after the rain water fried my radio (which I took out).
I don't have gauge lights, either. I've been using a ( sad but true ) flash light to keep an eye on speed at night. Lol. Not good.
If you got water at the fuse block, then I'd have to agree with NAJ and check to see if you have power at your block. If that fried your radio that may be the whole problem.
I think there is a connector in the kick panel you need to fine the colour of the wire your after and start at the fuse block and work out from there. I've seen wires green out under the drivers side carpet as well
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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