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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for a straight answer. Some places list them one way and others the reverse. Which one is for a manual transmission car?

The online dealers say the P4529999 is for an auto. The Shelby Dodge auto club listing and the forums say that its for a manual.

I haven't seen it definitively resolved. Looking to buy the right one asap as I think my ecu is dead...
 

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I believe that the online dealer is correct in saying that P4529999 is for an automatic transmission. Part number P4529998 should be for the manual transmission.

There seems to have been a typo in the 1992 Mopar Performance catalog.

The problem is the 1992 and 1995 Mopar performance catalogs show conflicting information about part # P4529999. The 1992 catalog shows it is for a manual transmission. The 1995 catalog shows it is for an automatic transmission.

The 4th edition Mopar Performance book for the 2.2/2.5 shows P452999 is for an automatic transmission.

The one thing that is consistent with the part numbers used in the Mopar Performance Catalogs for the turbo computers is how they assign the last digit, even or odd to them. When the last digit was an odd number it was always assigned to the computer that was for an automatic transmission.

The last digit if it was an even number was always assigned to a computer for a manual transmission.
 

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The one thing that is consistent with the part numbers for the turbo computers is how they assign the last digit, even or odd to them. When the last digit was an odd number it was always assigned to the computer that was for an automatic transmission.

The last digit if it was an even number was always assigned to a computer for a manual transmission.

hmm. you say that. but then. just posted above.
 

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Thanks guys. EaZy, this van is a swap (90 van harness, 91 shelby engine and trans, 91 shelby sbec). Thanks for the info. I've been checking car-part.com and ebay for various ecu #'s, including 5276383. Just looking for an ecu that would plug and play to see if it is indeed the ecu (99% sure it is)

Meek, thank you sir. Ordering a P4529998 right now. Hard to beat $130 for a brand new engine control from the OEM. If it works, I might just have to order another so I have a spare...
 

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hmm. you say that. but then. just posted above.
If someone can please tell me definitively they have used "X" ecu in there "Y" transmission car, that'd be great. People must have these Mopar performance computers in there cars, right?

I'm guessing meek is referring to previous MP SMEC's, not standard factory computers. Just a guess.

On another note, the ecu that is in the van is a 4112173. I'm failing to find anything on it. I was told by the guy that swapped it that it is a 91 Shelby manual high torque control. I figure if it was it'd be easy to cross the part number and find it...
 

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I don't see that part number anywhere in the factory efisch files. The 2.5 high torque models came with the A-568 transmission IIRC, which the 1991 pdf doesn't list transmission options for each computer like the 1992 file does, just manual or automatic.
 

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I don't see that part number anywhere in the factory efisch files. The 2.5 high torque models came with the A-568 transmission IIRC, which the 1991 pdf doesn't list transmission options for each computer like the 1992 file does, just manual or automatic.
Where are these files at? Available online somewhere? I need to look up a number of part numbers to see if they might be useful to me...

5276407
5235477
4557597

4557593 - turbo or not?
 

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You're welcome.

Also to answer your question(or maybe cloud the issue), as long as you take care of a couple of minor wiring issues, I don't know that it makes a difference which ECU you use, auto or manual.

I've been running the stock auto SMEC on my Daytona for better than two years since I converted it to a 5 speed. It does a slight little dip in the idle while coming to a stop, and you have to take care of the neutral safety switch wire, but other than that, it works just fine. Been getting 30+ mpg ever since the conversion. I'm totally ecstatic with it!!!
 

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You're welcome.

Also to answer your question(or maybe cloud the issue), as long as you take care of a couple of minor wiring issues, I don't know that it makes a difference which ECU you use, auto or manual.

I've been running the stock auto SMEC on my Daytona for better than two years since I converted it to a 5 speed. It does a slight little dip in the idle while coming to a stop, and you have to take care of the neutral safety switch wire, but other than that, it works just fine. Been getting 30+ mpg ever since the conversion. I'm totally ecstatic with it!!!
Thanks Scamp. Looking at the factory service manual, they don't make a distinction between the auto and manual, except for a wire or two (of course the parts catalog does). I can see an easy path like you mention to run an auto ecu on a manual car. Doesn't surprise me at all that you are running one.

Just a guess on my part, but I'm guessing the ecu's are physically the same. Just slightly different calibrations.

In this case, I didn't want to introduce any other variables yet. Once I have it running again, just for fun, I'll probably get my hands on an auto ecu to try it. Open up another avenue to spare parts...
 

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The tunes have minor difference in deccel programming and idle, other than that, they are pretty close.

The key to running an auto ECU with a manual is the neutral safety wire. The auto's have a 3 wire plug on the trans. The middle wire is the neutral safety. The other two wires are for the backup lights. You have to ground that middle wire, or the car won't start. If you look at the FSM, that wire is permanently grounded on a manual car. The catch is, on an auto car, grounding that wire, also disables the cruise(if you care about that). What I did to get around that, is I ran that third wire inside, and used a microswitch I mounted to the clutch pedal. When the pedal is depressed, it completes the circuit, and grounds that wire so the car will start, when released, it opens it, and lets the cruise work. Also acts as a safety so you can't start the car with the clutch engaged...:wink2:

I guess the true meaning of my post is: don't let not finding a manual ECU keep you from running your car...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The tunes have minor difference in deccel programming and idle, other than that, they are pretty close.

The key to running an auto ECU with a manual is the neutral safety wire. The auto's have a 3 wire plug on the trans. The middle wire is the neutral safety. The other two wires are for the backup lights. You have to ground that middle wire, or the car won't start. If you look at the FSM, that wire is permanently grounded on a manual car. The catch is, on an auto car, grounding that wire, also disables the cruise(if you care about that). What I did to get around that, is I ran that third wire inside, and used a microswitch I mounted to the clutch pedal. When the pedal is depressed, it completes the circuit, and grounds that wire so the car will start, when released, it opens it, and lets the cruise work. Also acts as a safety so you can't start the car with the clutch engaged...:wink2:

I guess the true meaning of my post is: don't let not finding a manual ECU keep you from running your car...
Thanks Scamp. Found a couple of ecu's to try and both worked. One out of a Sundance and another out of a Spirit, both T1 2.5L manuals.

Might have to find an auto ecu just to try it...
 
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