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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this is kind of a pointless thread, but I'm posting it anyway. I just pulled my Shelby Charger out of my Mom's garage after being stored there for the winter. L-body shift linkage sucks!:eek: I've gotten used to the short-throw shifter I made for my '94 Duster (thanks a lot, lotashelbys for the pics and how-to), and what a difference it made! I also used nylock nuts instead of the squishy stock bushings(thanks, Gary Donovan), so it's real tight!:thumb: I can hardly even tell what gear, if any, I am in with the crappy Charger linkage. I guess it's time to heim joint it. Oh, I've been looking everywhere for a how-to to make an A-555 rod-shifted, but I can only find pics and sketchy half-directions. :confused:Does anybody know of a real good one? I know I could use the Daytona shifter, but I'd rather not cut a hole in the floor of my car. I like the factory reverse lock-out in l-bodies, too:) I think I'm done babbling now.
 

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Depending on how you want your rear transmission mount setup is where you are really going to need to start looking. I know that there are a few places that I have found that have the complete outline of how-to do it, and it is relatively simple. There is a page in the FAQ at another (unnamable) site, and it is the best compilation that I have seen. I know that the heim joint setup would be very easy for your car, heck, I have made 2 myself and it only took me about 30 min with a grinder, tap, and die. And next thing you know, you have rock solid shifting, and I had the same problem you had. Heck, you can also go as far as removing the crappy studs and replacing them with real bolts. But that is up to you. But the heim joint is simple enough to do. If you have any questions on that part, feel free to ask. Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I planned to get rid of the studs because bolts are way better, and I think I'll move the pivot points inward to make it a little shorter throw. I think I'll use the bobble strut and Gustify it like I did in my Duster. I just need a longer bolt and some spacers. I think once I have the A-555 in front of me, it'll be a lot simpler. (A guy I know has one for sale with a turbo II motor for around $125 for the whole lot!) :) The motor is in pieces, so I'll need rings, bearings, and all that stuff, so it'll probably end up costing around $300 when I'm done, but that's still not bad. It's an '89 motor with the 2.5" swingvalve, too.:) I think the first thing I have to do is find an '88-'90 Omni fuel pump hanger, 'cause the Walbro just doesn't work that well in the original. The gauge quit working AGAIN after I put it in.:bang head I already fixed it once. I can't seem to find one of those new, so it looks like rusty old boneyard parts, if I can find one. :bang head
 

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I know that there was an Omni in a KC JY, but I haven't been out there for a while, so I don't know if it is still there. But if you are going to use the bobble strut, the rod shift is going to be out of the question since the bobble will get in the way. That is why when I go through my car, I am either going to go with a custom bracket for the dog bone and use my heim joint shift rods or modify it to use the bobble strut and a cable shifter, I guess that will end up depending on which transmission I end up using. But I don't know if moving the pivots will help "shorten the throw" because you will still have to move the shifter the same, no mater what, you will just be shortening the rods. But if you would extend the pivots so the swing of them would be longer, then the longer the swing, the shorter you shift. it would be a physics thing. But I know there are write up to make short throw shifters from the stock L-body shifters. But I have not looked at that kind of modification.
 
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