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Discussion Starter #1
I ported 2 places on my short block, the water pump housing and the oil feed hole in the block. There is an ugly looking connection between the block and oil pump. The oil hits a wall at an angle instead of straight in. I hogged out the hole down in about an inch and blended it nice. This should help power and oiling as the fight isn't there like it was. The water pump is horrid. The pinch point in it is half the size of the block openning. The water goes down a square path to the block and one side is a tiny square hole and the other is a big wall. I built a velocity stack right before the block with it, you can dig the whole corner out and not go through. I go through the bolt hole, wah, it won't leak with sealent on it anyway. Both are there drawing HP off the crank to work, both are going to take less power on my car now. Both have a huge cavitating and restrictive corner to make stock. Easy mod really, just need a carbon cutting steel and aluminum bits. I use 3/8" tree shaped, I believe as the best shape for porting anything. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
cj011 said:
what other type of short block modifications do you recommend?
there is a ton that you can do with a short block in general, but these happen to be 2 good places to port the short block pieces that it is easy to do. What kind of mods do you want to do?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mario_Boost said:
Sounds a lot like what Ed Peters said years ago. Good tips still.
Ed said that and I agree just from looking at it. Then I looked at the rest of it and found the water pump. Many don't know though so it is good to mention it once in a while
 

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I can't even begin to tell you how much work I have in my Über-block! Unfortunatly I may be doing it all over again as I'm rethinking my whole Über-motor design. I did both the mods Pope mentioned, but I also took ALL the flashing out of it, smoothed ALL casting lines and corners, smoothed all places in the crankcase for oil return(going to be sealed with a special sealer). The list goes on and on....You can spend as much time, if not more, on the block as you do the head...
 

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I believe Warren Stramer (2.2=8) applied some form of coating to the inside of his block to aid oil return also. Glyptol? Something like that.
 

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okay what are they? I realize that's a simple question but with ton of replies, but I am getting info for a one shot deal for a no budget block way down the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
omnious said:
post pics please :)
eerrr,,,it will never run again LMAO. I'll port another and show it some time, better idea :thumb: All these are a good idea and no money really to do. I did cut a half inch out of the water pump housing making the corner, ugly looking thing stock. The stock later pump has a little dip added to the pump it self not the housing. But I don't think it is big enough but combined with a porting would flow good.
 

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I left the block alone as far as coatings, but my rods and crank are coated with an anti oil coating from Dart Machining. They found that on a typical SBC there were 4 quarts of oil stuck to the rotating assembly. Once the coating was applied to the rods and crank it dropp to about 1.5 quarts!

Aaron M
'86 SC
13.4 @ 114, 2.5 60'
 

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GLHandGTS said:
I left the block alone as far as coatings, but my rods and crank are coated with an anti oil coating from Dart Machining. They found that on a typical SBC there were 4 quarts of oil stuck to the rotating assembly. Once the coating was applied to the rods and crank it dropp to about 1.5 quarts!

Aaron M
'86 SC
13.4 @ 114, 2.5 60'
Wow, thats some neat info, and quite shocking, :eek:
 

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With the design of the four cylinder engine, there's not much ooportunity to use Glyptol. Normally, it's used under the intake on a V6/V8 to help oil return to the bottom of the engine faster.
 
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