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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 87 slider cam in my car right now I want more high end because tire spin is massive at low end I am debating on buying a 88tbi cam or using the 2.5 turbo cam I have I was wondering if there was a big difference at 15psi and if anybody had a part number for that cam and what it and a set of followers cost ?


any help would be greatly apprec.
 

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I tried that before. Before swap I had no bottom end and good top end at 18 psi. After swap bottom end felt great to about 3800RPM's then fell off on power. Still hit the rev-limiter, but car actually slowed down 3 tenths. Wouldn't get past 12psi boost. Checked timing, OK. Turned out cam had too much overlap. Swapped back to slider cam & followers. Same as before, flat on bottom, but above 3 grand it's feather the pedal or bounce off the rev-limiter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the cam advanced 5* would that make that much difference in how it runs I advanced it to help it take what I thought was the extra fuel at the time then found out it was retarted one whole tooth but I left the 5* key because I didn't think it would hurt me i would Love it to pull a lot more up top what rpm do your guys boost come up right now it stops pulling probably around 4200 to 4800 boost starts coming up strong at 2500 though
 

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advancing a cam moves the power band to a lower rpm and retarding it raises the rpm the power band is in. Try taking out the 5 degree advance. Also keep in mind resurfacing the head retards cam timing.
Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
would that advance cause me to have what I consider hardly any power up top I can smoke a v8 out of the hole if I can stick it but after that it would just be keeping up like after probably 4500 maybe a little higher it really dogs
 

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the sliders get worse mileage as they have less vac at idle. I would run the 88 TBI with a little advancement. You could also go with a bigger cam to remove low end and add top end. Maybe a F3?
 

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Do they really have "much less friction"? I would be interested in knowing just how much horsepower is lost to the parasitic drag of a slider vs the losses in roller.

From the dodge garage: "Another bonus of the roller cam is reduced valvetrain friction- a whopping 75% at idle and 35% at cruise!" They do not list the actual energy lost though.
 

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Idle's better, there's quite a bit less noise, and parts wear more slowly. As far as a noticeable gain in horsepower or torque, it's doubtful, because the specs are nearly identical. I have been debating whether or not I should take the '93 TBI roller cam out of my Duster parts car (not the 3.0L '94 :p) but I'm not sure it would be worth the time and work I'd put into it. It does need a lifter, though, so I may do it after all. With the roller cam you'll lose a little bit of duration, but I don't think it's really enough to matter. Parts wear-wise, though, it's a pretty easy and cheap mod. All in all, don't really think you're going to notice any difference whatsoever switching stock cams.

forwardmotioninc.com has a pretty good selection of their own stuff.

Check fwdperformance.com for valvetrain parts, too they tend to be a little cheaper.

turbos unleased (dot) com is a good one as well.
 

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All turbo cams have .430 lift, but not all the same duration or LSA's.
84-87 turbo Sliders have 240/240 duration
88 TBI roller has 236/232
89-up turbo roller has 228/228

IMO the 88' roller is the best to use in any 87-older car, turbo or TBI roller doesn't really matter I made 300 WHP on a stock 88 turbo roller and it spooled my super 70 faster than the stock slider.
Rollers are quieter, and I noticed a hair more low end power and I was shifting at 6700 RPM with the stock 88 roller cam for those saying that rollers make no upper RPM power.
 

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Adding duration adds top end, along with other things. The F3 is much like a bigger 16v cam, loads of duration and little lift. This also means a lot of overlap. But will raise the RPM range.

The rollers just shut and open the valve better near the base circle of the cam. That doesn't sound good by description but the slider hits the follower real early and late compared to the tiny roller. So your getting duration at super low lift instead of at higher lift. The rollers just open and shut the valves on a faster ramp and can do a better job with cylinder pressure, which the turbos require. The slider is more stable of a follower though for high RPM. But todays better lifters and springs, through this out the window. You can also buy many different rollers now. Go to FWDs web sight, there are F cams and the old S cams still there. New or regrind. The new cams are cut with a reall wide lobe sepperation for turbos as well, crazy wide compared to NA cams. So new cam designs, PT lifters that hold lash better and conical beehive springs that don't have harmonic issues at higher RPM. All adds up these days. Before the PT my rollers would bounce pot holes in the cam lobes at 6,500 RPM :bash: Just too much has changed
 

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Pope you can swear by PT lifters all you want, I've personally gone 6800 RPM with stockers and I know others turning over 7K with them with no issues. Your lifters must have been faulty.
They did fail. And I've a lot of others fail too and they make the valve train noisy. Everything done right the stockers work fine, they just can't get windage in them. New lifters are nice to have in the older engines with miles on them. I can almost buy 2 sets of new MP PT lifters for what one set of stock lifters cost. At the dealer they are twice as much. PTs are just the same thing with the ability to spit out the air that gets trapped in them. And they cost nearly or right at half. So why wouldn't I swear by something that can't hurt ever at any RPM and they cost a ton less? Is there a down side somewhere? I have sold a set of washers every week for what 4 years now? Not one single complaint, not one. Many do it just because they can't afford 2.2 lifters, and don't care if they work better. I've heard people complain there lifters tick after autocrossing. But don't with PTs. A new engine done right, and you add crank scrapers and windage trays and so on and you should be fine with stock lifters. My dads TC runs sweet with stock ones, the car is mint though. I am also open to complaints on them, I don't defend them blindly. People all over like them so much they call Fasteners from all over the country to buy washers. I posted all the info on them, word of mouth people liking them they are 100 times more popular than when I first did it. Whats the downside?
 

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If you have a regrind cam you can't exactly run 3-4 washers in there unless you want no oil pressure. And if you are turning the RPM's where stock lifters fail you are probably running an aftermarket cam. The only case is if you put out the bucks for a billet cam, than you can still use PT's with the standard 2 shims.
Cindy posted up awhile back looking for people to try out an experimental lifter for reground cams thats +1mm longer than stock and also have the bleed hole like the PT. Now THAT sounds like a good lifter.

Oh and on the price, I go to the junkyard and snag 2-3 sets of lifters for $10-20 and make 1 good set out of them.
 
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